Hi, kinda new to this forum; but I read it for quite some time

So, I'm building a new CX bike. I'm doing triathlon, and I only want 2 bike (TT + this one); so I want to build it right the first time. I plan to race few CX next year as well. My friend was thinking of buying the new BMC graal disc, I want to show him what I can do with similar money (+- 2500$ budget)

I put my hand on a new Cannondale CAAD9 for cross (I beleive it's the same as the CX9); I read quite a lot about it and it appear to me to be one of the best aluminium frame. I bout a nakes frame, no fork

So far:
Cannadale CAAD9 cyclocross (AKA CX9)
FSA C-CX headset
Easton EC90X fork
SRAM red shifters 2011
SRAM red 2012 front derailleur + catcher
SRAM red (I have the silver model at the moment, but I would like to trade it for a black one)
SRAM S900 BB30 crank, compact (with SRAM red black chainring). Will probably swap the 34 for a 36; and the 50 for a 46 during CX race season.
Avid shorty ultimate brakes (gray, I didn't like the flashy red hardware)
Selle Italia SRL 135g
KMC X10SL chain

Missing:
seat post (was thinking of KCNC, but I'm scared of the weight limit since I jumping on the saddle on and off)
EC90 42cm handlebar
cable (not sure what I will get)
bar tape

As for the wheels, I have a set of Easton EA90 tubeless & Shimano RS80 C24, but I'm thinking of building a new set of tubular. I have a Zipp 188 rear hub sitting around

picture to be follow

cables: i really like the shimano shifting cables/housing with the sp41 end caps, that works better and longer on my bikes than gore sealed housing and is cheaper and easier to install.
brake cables is a different story though, there i am using gore at the moment, best compromise.
don't save weight on the seatpost and pay it with durability. i've used ritchey wcs 2 bolt flex fit today for the first time, they rock!very good adjustability(and 15 mm setback make more sense in my situation than the 30 mm on 1 bolt ritchey posts), 2 m6 bolts make for a damn durable connection between saddle and post.
there are lots of good posts around, since you seem to like easton look into the 2 bolt ec70(15 mm setback iirc, the 25 mm setback model only has 1 bolt to clamp the saddle).
i was using easton bars when i was with the bmc team and while maybe some people like the shape, they've been breaking by just looking at them. you will crash from time to time with the cross bike and it's not too cool when everytime your bike touches the ground you have to worry about a broken handlebar. there are more durable carbon bars around or(much more sense)every bend is available in aluminum. ritchey evo curve bars are pretty similar shape as slx3 from easton.
lizard skins dsp bartape is nice, light and very comfortable, and you can clean even the white tape very good.
i'd also ditch the 50 red chainring for a 46(more or less standard in cx for a big ring)or 48 if you ride on the road a lot. a 50 is too big, you don't want to use the 36 for accellerating out of every corner.

That looks like a pretty good plan. If it were my bike I would replace the Red derailleurs with Rival or Force, and use the money saved to upgrade the fork to an Enve, particularly since you are using canti's.

I would also look at aluminum bars. I am happy with my Maxim ACS from WilliamsCycling.com. Actual weight for a 42cm was 235g, and the shape is more or less identical to the Ergonova.

Good luck with the build!

Thanks a lot for the reply; I didn't get email notification...

So i bought the seatpost; it's a KCNC SC Pro Lite. It has little seatback (which I think I need). I'll give it a chance, let's see if it doesn't flex too much when I jump on it (with my 170 pounds!). http://www.kcnc.com.tw/old/Web/NewWeb/rdpost.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
If it's not strong enough, I'll swap it for a KCNC Ti pro lite with 2 bolt; which appear to be stronger; or something else...

As for the handlebar, I hear you and I'll look for something else; maybe in aluminium since it will get beat. there is the Easton EA70 which is damn cheap (50$); or the Maxim ACS proposed above. the 235g is very appealing, especially considering the price.

As for the fork, I have no intention of swapping it at the moment; I'll give it a try first.

As for the Chainring, I'll start with the 50 because I already have it; but I have the intention of buying a 46 for the race season.

I bought a scale last Friday, I'll keep you update.

agree on the fork the easton fork is really sub par for cross, finding a old alpha q cx 20 may be a cheap option, not sure on the cost on the enve

my favorite cross bar is 3T ergonova aluminum. (would ride a carbon bar in cross even if i was pad to do so)

I have had 3 season on alligator i links and the 7900 still shifts great. i use it for brake and shifter.

nathan

I just bought this handlebar, thanks a lot for the suggestions Maxim ACS on it's way

Now the only thing missing are the cable and bar tape. Can't wait.
Oh sorry about the pictures, I don't have any yet. I ship most of my pieces at my friend's house in the Us; but I live in Canada. I only have the front derailleur at the moment.

My mistake, I thought that you had decided on the Easton, but had not actually purchased it yet. In that case, I would do the same thing and give it a try. I hope it works well for you!

Also glad that you ordered the Maxim, I think it is a great bar for the money. Hopefully it will hold up to prolonged use.

I read quite a lot about housing, some people were saying that nokon was best, but a pain in the ass to install; and the gore ride sealed system was just as good. So, I went and bought 2 gore ride sealed (low friction) kit. the Nokon kit was very appealing, but it wasn't clear what was included in the kit and all, so the gore appear to be the best option.

Now the only thing I have to buy is the bar tape and headset spacers!

I also have Sram RED on one of my bike till I bought MicroShift Arsis Carbon and discovered how much money I wasted buying Sram Red stuff. I paid more than 300eu only for the shifters, then I bought the MicroShift (the whole set shifters, front and rear der.) for 250eu (just regular price).
The thing is the MicroShift works even better than Red, I've been unsing it on my training bike for one year, then moved on the first bike. I still feel ashamed and stupid when think how I wasted my money, but didn't know about MicroShift before ... now you know

easton tko handle bar. u wont break those if u crash/get hit by cars while training. ask me how i know , sigh.

Maybe take a look at lacing up some Velocity Major Tom tubys. They are reasonably priced, and in the right spoke count they can be pretty rigid.

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Got the SLR seat tonight, at a disappointing 147g (advertised weight printed on the saddle of 135g)
The front clamp (31.8mm) came at 29g; but I'll be using a 34.9mm

I'll post more as soon as I get the pieces

The SLR saddles never weigh 135. They're almost always at least 10 grams heavier.

So here is my first « real » update. I was pleased to see that the other component I ordered were right on for the weight.

SRAM regular BB30 bearing set


New SRAM red chain catcher and hardware. I have a K-edge as well, I’ll check which will fit better on the fr derailleur.


New front derailleur & Chain catcher. The derailleur alone was 70g


Front derailleur clamp-on

(so total weight for the front derailleur assembly will be 114g)

KCNC seatpost (I was pleased with that, it look pretty solid too)


Italia SLR seat : (135g??)


Seatpost and saddle combo


Easton EA90 90mm with black bolt. I don’t know what they are, I’ll weight them alone and might upgrade them…


I should get the other components early next week....

As for the SRAM red question, I know it might sound silly to build a CX in SRAM red, but I can explain my choices:

The (pre 2012) SRAM force lever have zeroloss only for the front derailleur; and I really really like the accuracy of the red on my previous road bike. Only offer in red (pre 2012). Now, the new force share the technology.
For the front derailleur, I wanted the new red with yaw technology, because front shifting is so important and review says it’s a fantastic front derailleur.
The rear derailleur could have been force, but since I already have the shifters and fr derailleur; it was nice to get everything the same. I bought a used mini gruppo anyway…
As for the crank (S900), I get it for cheap; and it match the other SRAM component. I would have been interested in the FSA K-force light, but they usually sell for a lot more.