The problem here is that every time I remove the front wheel the new sram red brake loses its center and it needs fix every single time...Are the brakes that sensitive to such little moves when removing wheel? or is there any other tip I could follow?

The skewers I got are PlanetX Ti on Shimano R500 (training wheels) on a Tarmac Sl4

try putting some weight on the bike as you do up the skewer, then the wheel should seat in the same position each time

Are you sure the caliper is properly fixed onto the fork? Sometimes the fixing bolt bottoms out on the inner of the fork and does not allow caliper to fully fix...a shorter fixing bolt solves the issue. Also, are you using the included star nuts in order to allow caliper to bite slightly into the fork? EM3

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My 2011 Cervelo R5

I have the exact same problem.. Rear brake often looses center. I tried loosening the mounting bolt but the second iI release the housing it goes back to either one side or the oother. HELP PLEASE !!

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2011 Scott Scale Premium
2013 Scott Foil 10

One thing that causes this on a lot of brakes is newer ultralight brakes seem to be more sensitive to movement and new housing is very very stiff. This combines to make a lot of brakes go off center. Try finding some flexible housing and see if that doesn't help. A dash of carbon friction paste on the brake nut and bolt clamp faces can't hurt either.

I use aluminum spiral wrapped housing which is very flexible and have never had any of these issues. Its very flexible and to get on topic its also very very light.

It's all about cable housing length and and cable housing stiffness.

When you set up your cable housing, try to it with the brake mounting bolt loose. If you can get the brake to stay centred with a loose bolt than all should be good. Sometimes you have to tinker with the housing length, or maybe add a cable tie to get it close. HOWEVER very few frame make this even close to possible and stiff cable housing exacerbates the problem. Add in road vibration and over time many brakes will go off centre (not to mention bumping the brake during wheel removal/installation).

Problem with flexible brake cable housing though is that it can seriously hurt braking performance, although less of an issue on the rear.

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Thanks everyone. Here's something I did that worked albeit maybe a temporary solution to a permanent problem. Ok bear with me.
I loosened the brake housing while at the same time used a wrench to twist the nut connected to the break arms (the one just after the star nut and washer) in the opposite direction of the Allen key rotation which I was tightening at the same time.
The brake housing still had some play but within acceptable margins on both sides. I will do a thorough road test and report back.

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2011 Scott Scale Premium
2013 Scott Foil 10

'I loosened the brake housing while at the same time used a wrench to twist the nut connected to the break arms (the one just after the star nut and washer) in the opposite direction of the Allen key rotation which I was tightening at the same time.'

I just reread that and got confused. Sorry, first I loosened the brake housing. When I went to re tighten it I used a wrench to counteract the clockwise rotation by twisting it counter clockwise.

Hope this clears it up.

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2011 Scott Scale Premium
2013 Scott Foil 10

What Brand?

Old CLB, although someone showed a very similar looking product last year at one of the bike shows, but I've never seen it produced. YellowJersey still has some but in limited colors (the outer is clear plastic that is tinted). No idea why this didn't catch on. I've used it for years, Idon't think their is any modern alternative as light, it looks good, and seems as durable as any other housing I've used.

Have you tried to pull the brake lever after you have removed the front wheel. The thing about the new RED brakes is that they center themselves. When you remove a wheel og pushed the quick releases you a tounching the brakes which makes them lose their center. Just pull the lever and they should come back in center.

But this system is a real pity to set up. The stiff housing will inevitably affect the brakes position. When I set up my brakes so they are centered when open (lever not pulled) one arm moves towards the rims sooner than the other making one pad touch the rim before the other. So engaged the brakes are not centered but they are centeret when opened. This could only be because of the cables pushing the self centering brakes to one side.

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Technical editor at Cykelmagasinet Denmark

My Simplon Pavo II

Even on SRAM's video you can actually see how one arm engaged before the other:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uiCM8ngEwho" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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Technical editor at Cykelmagasinet Denmark

My Simplon Pavo II

This problem seems to be prevalent with the new sram red brakes.. I think I'm going to go campy. Shame I really liked the look of them. Any suggestions?

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2011 Scott Scale Premium
2013 Scott Foil 10

all the tips above are great to get a good initial set up.

having said that i did notice this phenomenon to a degree, but it seems to settle down over time.

could be the springs settling/cable outer breaking in (starts to hold a shape after a while)

i have been running the groupset since it was released and dont notice it anymore.