I currently have a set of Magura Marta w/ Stan's Alu rotors and Ti Hardware everything weighs 565 grams. Does anyone know if there is a disc brakeset that weighs 150-200 grams less? Im assuming maybe Formula R1's w Ti Hardware and Aluminum rotors.

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Scott Spark LTD 8.40kg

Giant NRS (Retired)
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=104531

SRAM XX World cup is 266g front (from memory) with G3 disc and steel bolts, so keeping your discs and Ti bolts should see you saving about 90g over both ends......

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Impoverished weight weenie wanna-be!
Budget 26" HT build viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110956

You will not be able to lose 200grams from your setup. R1 brakes get down to the 270g range. Maybe -30g per wheel with the alu rotors as the stock formulas are pretty light for steel, you'd be at 480g. Estimates only...

My Formula R1 Racing is 495g including adaptors both rear and front as I have ISmount. 160/140 Innoliterotors

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/jonas l
http://cerrol.wordpress.com (my cyclingblog)

How are those Innolite Rotors?

The new XX with the revised bleed port location and bladder don't have the same "requires constant bleeding" issues the old ones had. I went with XX so I could have a clean setup with my reverb remote, but Formula R1s are hard to beat if that isn't a concern.

..... actually as I sit and type this, I have a pair of 2012 SRAM XX brakeset less than 1.0 m away from me that I picked up from the post office depot this morning - I will weigh and post this evening.

A quick look it appears they have Ti bolt t hold the 2 callper halves together, will verify this with magnet later.

F 200 g calliper, lever - no clamp
R 178 g calliper, lever - no clamp

haven't measured the hose length but they are as out of the box, natrually I will be trimming the hose so expect maybe 5 g less in total?

Are pretty good but a little wide so tight with my R1 brakes and was tight with my last Sram X.0 too. Not awesome braking but works good I would say. As expected from the lightest rotors.

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/jonas l
http://cerrol.wordpress.com (my cyclingblog)

I had innolite rotors, an I am agree with you, they work enough to stop the bike when you brake.

if you are not in a hurry, wait until I post about my experiences with the 2012 SRAM XX brakes - if you search t'web, the earlier model gave no end of problems.

fitted them last night but need to shorten hoses which will mean bleeding them which is not fun for this type of brake.

Have you tested the 2012 Sramm XX Brakes yet ?

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Scott Spark LTD 8.40kg

Giant NRS (Retired)
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=104531

nope - won't be able to do that until the weekend - been away from home. I got as far as shortening the brake hoses so they need bleeding.

Done one ride, maybe 10 miles due to being busy, else either being very cold or very very very wet and muddy.

They do what they are supposed to do i.e. they stop me - so as good as any other disc brakes I have - not had any of the problems like pads dragging or having to rebleed after each ride, ok, after one ride - lever still is firm. I did trim the hoses and as usual with this type of brake, it tool a long time but no probs once done.

The only minor criticism I have is the brake lever isn't quite in the ideal position for me - I think that is because the lever pivot is too close to the bar so the angle of the lever is slightlty wrong for me.

I think I'll be replacing by formula R1 that arrived in post this monring, since those work out 50 g lighter, the lever is better positioned and they will allow my rockshox x-loc to sit nearer the grips - downside is I will not be able to use my lovely Hope SAW discs due to clearance between calliper and the hollow rivet.

overall verdict is (note these are the latest model - the problems you read about are for the earlier models - the difference is the posiiton of the bleed screw on the lever and callipers not needed CPS washers)