The wheelbuilding thread
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Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
I finished my BHS C472/ SL218 wheels the other day and rode them on Sunday. I laced the front 20h radial and the rear 28h 2x, all with Sapim Race spokes. These are some solid wheels. I'm also liking the wide rim, even with 23mm tires. The ride is just a little better. Total weight was 1600g, so they're not light wheels but aren't pigs either.
28/32 with Lasers or Race would make very durable wheels. The Lasers save about 1g per spoke, at the cost of needing to be held to prevent windup when building the wheels.
Using lighter spokes on the NDS does make them less likely to go completely slack and fatigue, when the tension is low. If tension is high enough to keep them from going slack there's not much advantage.
Nothing I've read has indicated that radial lacing on the rear is superior to cross lacing, so I haven't tried it.
28/32 with Lasers or Race would make very durable wheels. The Lasers save about 1g per spoke, at the cost of needing to be held to prevent windup when building the wheels.
Using lighter spokes on the NDS does make them less likely to go completely slack and fatigue, when the tension is low. If tension is high enough to keep them from going slack there's not much advantage.
Nothing I've read has indicated that radial lacing on the rear is superior to cross lacing, so I haven't tried it.
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is linseed oil still good?
i like it becouse after 2weeks really glue nipple and smell nice
i like it becouse after 2weeks really glue nipple and smell nice
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Probably. I have never found a problem with nipples unwinding when using 3 in 1 oil so the fact that linseed oil glues the nipple does not attract me at all as the nipples seem to be secure enough as it is. They only have to be secure enough after all. That's even the case on my own wheels where I have ~500N NDS tension (low tension limit rim and 11 speed hubs).
Hi everyone,
Thinking about a future build, want to go for a bombproof wheelset dura ace 7900 hubs, dtswiss 585 rims rear 32x3 front 28x2.
My question is about the spokes: will a regular dura ace hubs work with sapim cx ray spokes? Or will only round spokes go through? I checked the shimano tech docs and they say something about aero spokes only 28 and 24 holes hubs.
Thanks for your time.
Thinking about a future build, want to go for a bombproof wheelset dura ace 7900 hubs, dtswiss 585 rims rear 32x3 front 28x2.
My question is about the spokes: will a regular dura ace hubs work with sapim cx ray spokes? Or will only round spokes go through? I checked the shimano tech docs and they say something about aero spokes only 28 and 24 holes hubs.
Thanks for your time.
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allepunta wrote:Hi everyone,
Thinking about a future build, want to go for a bombproof wheelset dura ace 7900 hubs, dtswiss 585 rims rear 32x3 front 28x2.
My question is about the spokes: will a regular dura ace hubs work with sapim cx ray spokes? Or will only round spokes go through? I checked the shimano tech docs and they say something about aero spokes only 28 and 24 holes hubs.
Thanks for your time.
The Cxray shouldn't be a problem. That isn't a truly bladed spoke, at least when compared to ones like Mavic and what not.
They should go through the spoke holes just fine. Are you going to build with brass or alloy nips?
Zen Cyclery wrote:allepunta wrote:Hi everyone,
Thinking about a future build, want to go for a bombproof wheelset dura ace 7900 hubs, dtswiss 585 rims rear 32x3 front 28x2.
My question is about the spokes: will a regular dura ace hubs work with sapim cx ray spokes? Or will only round spokes go through? I checked the shimano tech docs and they say something about aero spokes only 28 and 24 holes hubs.
Thanks for your time.
The Cxray shouldn't be a problem. That isn't a truly bladed spoke, at least when compared to ones like Mavic and what not.
They should go through the spoke holes just fine. Are you going to build with brass or alloy nips?
Alloy nipples. let me know is you have a different recommendation. Is there any difference between cx ray and dt aerolites? I actually live in the town where DTswiss factory is so it would be easier and faster to get them...
The idea is actually to build a strong wheel fro my type of riding, up to 4 hours fast (avg 30 kmh) over rolling terrain and some criteriums. I weight 75 kg.
Buy the way, I see you are in Boise...I heard you have a basque community there, right? Basque myself, just trying to make a living over here...
Thanks for your time
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That spoke count for weight on DT 585 would be exessively strong and stiff unless you are particularly hard on wheels. You should be able to use a 24 front and 28 rear without out problems.
However all the extra spokes do is a add a bit of weight. Alloy nipples should work but brass will be potentially more relaible. If salt is put down in winter than alloy nipples are not the most sensible choice.
However all the extra spokes do is a add a bit of weight. Alloy nipples should work but brass will be potentially more relaible. If salt is put down in winter than alloy nipples are not the most sensible choice.
bm0p700f wrote:That spoke count for weight on DT 585 would be exessively strong and stiff unless you are particularly hard on wheels. You should be able to use a 24 front and 28 rear without out problems.
However all the extra spokes do is a add a bit of weight. Alloy nipples should work but brass will be potentially more relaible. If salt is put down in winter than alloy nipples are not the most sensible choice.
Yes I also thought about that spoke combination, but the thing is I do not have much experience building wheels (this would be my 4th set) I have only done the typical 32 or 36 x 3 box section rims... Now if you tell me 24/28 is OK for a newby...
Let me know
Thanks
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It's just like building a 28/32 build except for less spokes. If you know how to build 2x then you should be fine. The only difference is truing the wheel can be a bit more fiddley but first time I did one I do not remember it being difficult.
I'd suggest 20/24H spoking but 7900 hubs do not ome in 20H drillings.
I'd suggest 20/24H spoking but 7900 hubs do not ome in 20H drillings.
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Suggestions on best tubular rims with spoke counts of 20/24 or 24/28?
My Bike:
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viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110318" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
- Zen Cyclery
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You could try the Kinlin TB25. That is a pretty darn rigid hoop, and it is reasonably priced. It is by no means light (440 grams) but that weight is made up for in stiffness.
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Velocity makes the Escape as low as 18 hole. Someone on here built a 20/24 set as track wheels recently.
Yep, I currently have a set of escape tubulars laced to AC track hub rear and micro front. 1333 grams for the set. 20/24.
I weigh 80kg, and have had zero problems so far on some rough roads with a lot of miles.
My thoughts are that the zero dish of the rear track hub and wide flange spacing make it a very stiff, strong wheel.
(check out the link in my sig to see them)
I weigh 80kg, and have had zero problems so far on some rough roads with a lot of miles.
My thoughts are that the zero dish of the rear track hub and wide flange spacing make it a very stiff, strong wheel.
(check out the link in my sig to see them)
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