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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 9:14 pm 
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Posts: 88
eric wrote:
What make were your black ebay hubs? Do the spoke heads fit into a countersink on the hub? If so, and the elbow is not supported, the elbow may fatigue and break after some miles. I have a wheel (on a BHS UL66 front) that's doing that. I'm going to build its replacement 1x heads in to compensate.

The hub i take for my build are sell on ebay as uniQ 260g hub (search this term on ebay an you will find them easily), and yes the spoke heads fit into a countersink, but normaly this countersink are just made for that ....no?

I have read your problem with the front radial wheel, this is strange because most of the radial laced front wheel are with the heads out, and don't have problem like you, i wish than mine is going to be fine.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 9:19 pm 
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Posts: 88
eric wrote:
I like the wider spacing of the BHS hubs vs Rotaz more than I dislike the DS flange spacing. The Rotaz is pretty narrow over all, and my experience with equally narrow AC hubs is they make a laterally flexy wheel. That's not good for reliability for me. Someone else who doesn't stand on climbs so much might be ok with the narrow flange hub.

The BHS 218 hub has slightly better DS flange spacing and a little less on the NDS than the 211.

Djay I'd recommend 28/32 for your friend. Most women I know don't like to deal with broken spokes on the road and doing a field re-truing of the wheel. The C472 rim looks good, I'm building a set.


Do you think that 28/32, sapim laser front, NDS and race DS with brass nipples everywhere would be fine?

djay001 wrote:
I'm also planning a build for a an other friend.

I want to hear feedback from you to see what could be the best build for her.

She is at 240 pounds, i can say that she is a powerfull girl.
She do about 2000miles a years, for most, this is some club ride of about 20-40 miles.
She want something durable, and confortable.
She was on shimano RS-20 for the last 2000 Miles she did and the wheel are just going in really bad condition now.

I'm checking to get her a good wheelset on a little budget, so for now i'm sticking with BHS part.

I thought to build her a BHS C472w rim with the new BHS SL 218 rear hub, over the SL211 for the bigger bearing and beter flange spacing and for the front i'm thinking of SLF85W, big bearing and large flange spacing too.

Now, for the spoke, can a 24/28 spoke be ok? Sapim Race everywhere?
Or maybe can i go with 28/32, laser with race DS?

Sorry for the repost of this message, but sometime this thread are going fast an maybe someone else can comment. Thanks

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 9:43 pm 
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
If its a cray weather wheel for crappy winter roads, more spokes is always better than less.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 2:10 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
Posts: 2196
Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
I finished my BHS C472/ SL218 wheels the other day and rode them on Sunday. I laced the front 20h radial and the rear 28h 2x, all with Sapim Race spokes. These are some solid wheels. I'm also liking the wide rim, even with 23mm tires. The ride is just a little better. Total weight was 1600g, so they're not light wheels but aren't pigs either.

28/32 with Lasers or Race would make very durable wheels. The Lasers save about 1g per spoke, at the cost of needing to be held to prevent windup when building the wheels.


Using lighter spokes on the NDS does make them less likely to go completely slack and fatigue, when the tension is low. If tension is high enough to keep them from going slack there's not much advantage.

Nothing I've read has indicated that radial lacing on the rear is superior to cross lacing, so I haven't tried it.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 11:21 am 
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
Try dipping those laser in 3 in 1 oil. It really does stop wind up. The spokes do not need to held then. It pretty muh the only use I have for 3 in 1 oil.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 12:19 pm 
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Posts: 1043
Location: Slovenia---that forest land
is linseed oil still good?

i like it becouse after 2weeks really glue nipple and smell nice :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 2:15 pm 
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
Probably. I have never found a problem with nipples unwinding when using 3 in 1 oil so the fact that linseed oil glues the nipple does not attract me at all as the nipples seem to be secure enough as it is. They only have to be secure enough after all. That's even the case on my own wheels where I have ~500N NDS tension (low tension limit rim and 11 speed hubs).

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 10:00 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2012 10:09 pm
Posts: 8
Hi everyone,
Thinking about a future build, want to go for a bombproof wheelset dura ace 7900 hubs, dtswiss 585 rims rear 32x3 front 28x2.
My question is about the spokes: will a regular dura ace hubs work with sapim cx ray spokes? Or will only round spokes go through? I checked the shimano tech docs and they say something about aero spokes only 28 and 24 holes hubs.

Thanks for your time.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 10:09 am 
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Location: McCall, ID
allepunta wrote:
Hi everyone,
Thinking about a future build, want to go for a bombproof wheelset dura ace 7900 hubs, dtswiss 585 rims rear 32x3 front 28x2.
My question is about the spokes: will a regular dura ace hubs work with sapim cx ray spokes? Or will only round spokes go through? I checked the shimano tech docs and they say something about aero spokes only 28 and 24 holes hubs.

Thanks for your time.


The Cxray shouldn't be a problem. That isn't a truly bladed spoke, at least when compared to ones like Mavic and what not.
They should go through the spoke holes just fine. Are you going to build with brass or alloy nips?

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 11:05 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2012 10:09 pm
Posts: 8
Zen Cyclery wrote:
allepunta wrote:
Hi everyone,
Thinking about a future build, want to go for a bombproof wheelset dura ace 7900 hubs, dtswiss 585 rims rear 32x3 front 28x2.
My question is about the spokes: will a regular dura ace hubs work with sapim cx ray spokes? Or will only round spokes go through? I checked the shimano tech docs and they say something about aero spokes only 28 and 24 holes hubs.

Thanks for your time.


The Cxray shouldn't be a problem. That isn't a truly bladed spoke, at least when compared to ones like Mavic and what not.
They should go through the spoke holes just fine. Are you going to build with brass or alloy nips?




Alloy nipples. let me know is you have a different recommendation. Is there any difference between cx ray and dt aerolites? I actually live in the town where DTswiss factory is so it would be easier and faster to get them...
The idea is actually to build a strong wheel fro my type of riding, up to 4 hours fast (avg 30 kmh) over rolling terrain and some criteriums. I weight 75 kg.

Buy the way, I see you are in Boise...I heard you have a basque community there, right? Basque myself, just trying to make a living over here...

Thanks for your time


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 12:37 pm 
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
That spoke count for weight on DT 585 would be exessively strong and stiff unless you are particularly hard on wheels. You should be able to use a 24 front and 28 rear without out problems.

However all the extra spokes do is a add a bit of weight. Alloy nipples should work but brass will be potentially more relaible. If salt is put down in winter than alloy nipples are not the most sensible choice.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 12:46 pm 
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Posts: 8
bm0p700f wrote:
That spoke count for weight on DT 585 would be exessively strong and stiff unless you are particularly hard on wheels. You should be able to use a 24 front and 28 rear without out problems.

However all the extra spokes do is a add a bit of weight. Alloy nipples should work but brass will be potentially more relaible. If salt is put down in winter than alloy nipples are not the most sensible choice.



Yes I also thought about that spoke combination, but the thing is I do not have much experience building wheels (this would be my 4th set) I have only done the typical 32 or 36 x 3 box section rims... Now if you tell me 24/28 is OK for a newby...
Let me know

Thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 3:44 pm 
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Posts: 2633
Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
It's just like building a 28/32 build except for less spokes. If you know how to build 2x then you should be fine. The only difference is truing the wheel can be a bit more fiddley but first time I did one I do not remember it being difficult.

I'd suggest 20/24H spoking but 7900 hubs do not ome in 20H drillings.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2012 2:13 am 
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Posts: 81
Suggestions on best tubular rims with spoke counts of 20/24 or 24/28?

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2012 3:46 am 
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Location: McCall, ID
You could try the Kinlin TB25. That is a pretty darn rigid hoop, and it is reasonably priced. It is by no means light (440 grams) but that weight is made up for in stiffness.

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