Hey all,
twice now I have been riding and my lockring has become loose on the cassette- which jams the wheel and the crank. It basically locks everything up. Obviously this is very dangerous.

The first time I tightened it and it came loose, I sort of knew that I might not have muscled it as much as I should. This time I'm really puzzled. I cranked on that thing! I have an Extralite SPX or SlX version 1. can't remember..and Campy sr11.

My questions:
Is it normal for everything to lock up when/if this were to happen? Is it particular to this hub/gruppo? If I was going down hill I would have been soooooo screwed.

Should I use loc-tite?

Thanks for your input in advance..I should never work on my own stuff. I always screw it up

Hmm, the only time I saw this, it was a frame issue. Is the lockring rubbing on the frame when you are out of the saddle? I did see that happen once, and it wore a solid groove in the frame. Also caused some significant cassette damage.

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oh man.. I need to check.

'
So... Whats the news....

_________________
http://www.zencyclery.com

http://www.wheelbuilder.org

Actually ive noticed the same on my two reynolds wheelsets. The lockrings loosen up over time and Im not sure why as I muscle them up to. In one case it became so loose the cassette chewed completely through the freehub grooves. Guess due to the extra movement the fatigue of the freehub dramatically decreased. Pretty puzzled why this happens on some wheelsets and not on others.

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Canyon Ultimate SLX 2013 + DA9070 + Red Quarq + Corima Aero+ MCC (Ordered! 6.0kg)
Canyon AeroRoad + DA9000 + Lightning Power2Max + MCU's (6.5kg)
Cervelo P4 + G3 Powertap (7.78kg)
Cervelo SLC + SRAM Red 2013 + Red Quarq (6.8kg)

Check the serrations on the Campag lockring aren't damaged / worn as it's made of aluminium.

If it is damaged use a steel or Ti lockring instead. Also you could try blue medium strength loctite.

I always use a torque wrench. That way you know how tight you have tightened it. I tighten my lockring on a SR11 & DT Swiss hub to 35nm and have never had it come loose. I always have a little grease on the lockring.

There is some shaved off material from the hanger. I suppose that's where the lockring came loose while the wheel was still turning. Lockring threads still look good.

Ahh yikes. Did it shave off a significant amount of material, or just a bit? Hopefully that hanger is still good.

In the mean time, maybe a small dab of thread locker on the lockring may be worth considering. Just be sure to use sparingly.

_________________
http://www.zencyclery.com

http://www.wheelbuilder.org

Are you using the correct lockring? There's different ones for 10 and 11 speed campy I think.

You pretty much said it all. So here's my input: bring your bike to a competent mechanic.

I didn't check it for sure but my impression was that my Campy 11s lockring is Ti. But regardless, why wouldn't you use it?

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dangerous curves ahead

It took a few posts before someone came up with some common sense. The Camapg 11 speed lockring is alloy, and the obvious thing to do is to start using it. Copy lockrings may not be made to the same exacting standards.

The torque rating for this lockring is 40Nm. Using a conventional micrometer-style torque wrench on cassette lockrings doesn't really work becaue the 'breakaway' action cannot easliy be discerned from the notches on the mating surfaces. But that's why digital torque wrenches exist where (depending on the model) you get an audiable warning.

It took a few posts before someone came up with some common sense. The Camapg 11 speed lockring is alloy, and the obvious thing to do is to start using it. Copy lockrings may not be made to the same exacting standards.

The torque rating for this lockring is 40Nm. Using a conventional micrometer-style torque wrench on cassette lockrings doesn't really work becaue the 'breakaway' action cannot easliy be discerned from the notches on the mating surfaces. But that's why digital torque wrenches exist where (depending on the model) you get an audiable warning.

But ... if the lockring is fouling the frame dropout something is badly wrong with that hub.

I'm using a Campy 11sp ring. Same one that came with the cassette. Wouldn't it make sense if hub manuf. made these things reverse thread? Somehow mine is getting unstuck and the pedal force moves in the loosen direction. Obviously, if I could keep it from getting loose in the first place the latter wouldn't be an issue. just sayin'. What do I know. I just teach art.