hi,
I got a new bike (Cannondale Supersix 105 Compact Road Bike Replica (2012)) a few weeks ago and have put up 300km on it. I am very happy with the bike but have a sore neck and butt. The saddle will have to do for now but I wanted to raise the headset and give my neck a bit of a break.
Basically I got an Allen key (a right fit) and tried to loosen the headset and thus raise it. But it kind of cut the threads (on the headset bolt) inside and now it doesn't look so good.
You can see it looking a bit rung/rounded when you look straight down on it and I'm a bit annoyed with it. I did expect the bolt to be able to stand up against an Allen key.
What can I do with it ? It doesn't effect my riding but I wouldn't like to leave the bolt like that forever. The only thing I can think of is a replacement but would like to get some feedback ?
Cannondale Supersix 2012, rounded headset bolt
Moderator: robbosmans
-
thisisatest
- Shop Owner
- Posts: 1980
- Joined: Sat Jun 13, 2009 4:02 am
- Location: NoVA/DC
Is the top of the top cap (black) rounded out? Or is it the 5mm allen headed bolt inside that is rounded out? If it's the inside one, i doubt it's that mangled, it is a steel bolt. Loosen the stem steerer pinch bolts first, as they add some constriction to the system.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
-
quattrings
- Posts: 479
- Joined: Sun Nov 14, 2010 10:25 pm
Replacing rounded bolts? 
You crazy
You crazy
-
thisisatest
- Shop Owner
- Posts: 1980
- Joined: Sat Jun 13, 2009 4:02 am
- Location: NoVA/DC
Hahaha! I love that photo! Huge f1 fan, here.
I don't know how to describe it but it the inside bit where I fitted an Allen key. Its quite deep. It would hold the head set (handle bars) on to the bike frame and looks like the only thing that would make the headset go up.
I don't need the stem steerer pinch bolts loosened but they are soft and easy to loosen tighten. I had to put them on the bike when I assembled it out of the box.
its not too bad but looks like it should not have been attempted.
**edit here is a picture of it
It is the same bike in the picture, its the hole above FSA, can you see it ? I think they call it FSA compression plug/cap assembly. I used an Allen key but maybe it required a hex key
I don't need the stem steerer pinch bolts loosened but they are soft and easy to loosen tighten. I had to put them on the bike when I assembled it out of the box.
its not too bad but looks like it should not have been attempted.
**edit here is a picture of it
It is the same bike in the picture, its the hole above FSA, can you see it ? I think they call it FSA compression plug/cap assembly. I used an Allen key but maybe it required a hex key
-
snotrockets
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Thu May 21, 2009 9:11 am
I can't see the pictures, but from your description it seems as if you've mistaken your threadless for a threaded stem. Releasing the top cap bolt a little won't allow you to raise the bars. You need to move the spacers above the stem (assuming you have some) below it.
If you don't know how to do it, go to a shop - you may ruin your headset bearings, fork, or both if you are not careful.
If you don't know how to do it, go to a shop - you may ruin your headset bearings, fork, or both if you are not careful.
snotrockets wrote:I can't see the pictures, but from your description it seems as if you've mistaken your threadless for a threaded stem. Releasing the top cap bolt a little won't allow you to raise the bars. You need to move the spacers above the stem (assuming you have some) below it.
If you don't know how to do it, go to a shop - you may ruin your headset bearings, fork, or both if you are not careful.
are the pictures not displaying ? they should be ?
I think you are right, I mixed up the top of the stem threadless for threaded. Like you say loosening it didn't allow me to do anything and the parts below it were only starting to move around.
-
monkeyburger
- Posts: 123
- Joined: Mon Mar 26, 2012 2:45 pm
- Location: Bali, Indonesia
Hey There,
As the previous posters mentioned, this top cap is not to be confused with a quill stem system. Loosening this alone will not allow you to raise the bars. I would recommend taking the bike to your LBS as it sounds like you have already damaged the top cap.
FSA compression plugs come in a few designs. Some have a 6mm hex hole ("Allen Key") and some have a T-40 Torx hole. If you used a 5mm Allen key (which is the closest fit that a T40 hole will allow) you have probably rounded the inner part of the splines.
Using a T40 key, you will most likely be able to still remove the cap as the splines end in a taper.
If the cap will still not move, you (or, rather your LBS or a suitably equipped friend) will need to remove it using either an EZ Out tool or drill 2 small holes in it and use a pin spanner. Then replace the top cap and make sure you have its correct key for future adjustments.
Once you have the top cap removed you may find that flipping the stem gives you the bar height that you require .
FWIW the "FSA 6nm" script is the recommended torque setting for this preload cap.
I hope this helps, good luck!
Monkeyburger
As the previous posters mentioned, this top cap is not to be confused with a quill stem system. Loosening this alone will not allow you to raise the bars. I would recommend taking the bike to your LBS as it sounds like you have already damaged the top cap.
FSA compression plugs come in a few designs. Some have a 6mm hex hole ("Allen Key") and some have a T-40 Torx hole. If you used a 5mm Allen key (which is the closest fit that a T40 hole will allow) you have probably rounded the inner part of the splines.
Using a T40 key, you will most likely be able to still remove the cap as the splines end in a taper.
If the cap will still not move, you (or, rather your LBS or a suitably equipped friend) will need to remove it using either an EZ Out tool or drill 2 small holes in it and use a pin spanner. Then replace the top cap and make sure you have its correct key for future adjustments.
Once you have the top cap removed you may find that flipping the stem gives you the bar height that you require .
FWIW the "FSA 6nm" script is the recommended torque setting for this preload cap.
I hope this helps, good luck!
Monkeyburger
...finding my inner Onoda-kun...
-
thisisatest
- Shop Owner
- Posts: 1980
- Joined: Sat Jun 13, 2009 4:02 am
- Location: NoVA/DC
hex key and allen key and hex wrench and allen wrench, in this case, are synonymous.
the black cap itself takes a 6mm "allen" wrench. typically, the stem pinch bolts need to be loose before that will move.
look into the allen key hole in the top of the top cap with a flashlight. you will see another bolt inside, this time requiring a 5mm allen wrench to turn. loosen that bolt one full turn (loosen the stem pinch bolts if you havent already), and slide the entire "compression plug" unit out.
i'm sure youre gonna need instructions on how to reinstall/readjust the headset, but im gonna take a break now. good luck on part one.
the black cap itself takes a 6mm "allen" wrench. typically, the stem pinch bolts need to be loose before that will move.
look into the allen key hole in the top of the top cap with a flashlight. you will see another bolt inside, this time requiring a 5mm allen wrench to turn. loosen that bolt one full turn (loosen the stem pinch bolts if you havent already), and slide the entire "compression plug" unit out.
i'm sure youre gonna need instructions on how to reinstall/readjust the headset, but im gonna take a break now. good luck on part one.
some very helpful posts there but I don't know much of the technical terms. I think I will get the €30 replacement and have to go to a LBS and get them to fit it for me. It shouldn't be rocket science to just take the top cap part off.
I had the bike out today for a 50k and it was sweet, my neck is still a bit sore but I am not going to try and adjust the head set.
I had the bike out today for a 50k and it was sweet, my neck is still a bit sore but I am not going to try and adjust the head set.
for terminology this may help, look at the section "Conventional Threadless Headsets"
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... threadless
from the top...
- top cap, the bolt in the middle is only there to lightly preload the bearings before the stem is tightened, it does *not* secure anything
- usually at least one short spacer 3-5mm, but may be bigger or multiple spacers
- the stem, the stem clamp is what keeps the bars firmly attached to the steerer tube that runs down to the forks
- then zero or more spacers
- then the top of the headset
- then the frame
if the bars are too low, you have two options that don't involve new bits...
if there's one or more tall spacers above the stem, then one or more can be moved below the stem***, which will raise the bars - but usually you need at least one thin spacer between stem and top cap (to make things fit, you can buy spacers of various sizes)
***it's important that the correct amount of steerer tube is clamped by the stem, this is safety critical, if you do not know how it should be done, get someone to show you, or read up, or get the bike shop to do it
if the current stem angles down, it can be taken off, flipped 'upside down", and refitted, this too will raise the bars, how much depends on how angled the stem is
otherwise...
get a new stem with a steeper angle to give extra height
the nuclear option is replacing the forks, with the steerer not cut so low and with extra spacers - a new stem will be a *lot* cheaper
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... threadless
from the top...
- top cap, the bolt in the middle is only there to lightly preload the bearings before the stem is tightened, it does *not* secure anything
- usually at least one short spacer 3-5mm, but may be bigger or multiple spacers
- the stem, the stem clamp is what keeps the bars firmly attached to the steerer tube that runs down to the forks
- then zero or more spacers
- then the top of the headset
- then the frame
if the bars are too low, you have two options that don't involve new bits...
if there's one or more tall spacers above the stem, then one or more can be moved below the stem***, which will raise the bars - but usually you need at least one thin spacer between stem and top cap (to make things fit, you can buy spacers of various sizes)
***it's important that the correct amount of steerer tube is clamped by the stem, this is safety critical, if you do not know how it should be done, get someone to show you, or read up, or get the bike shop to do it
if the current stem angles down, it can be taken off, flipped 'upside down", and refitted, this too will raise the bars, how much depends on how angled the stem is
otherwise...
get a new stem with a steeper angle to give extra height
the nuclear option is replacing the forks, with the steerer not cut so low and with extra spacers - a new stem will be a *lot* cheaper
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
the section "Conventional Threadless Headsets" is a help. The more about Cannondale the better as I can see which bit is what.
One company told me it was this part for £14 which is cheap enough.
http://qwertycycles.co.uk/products/cann ... edge-kp017" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
It looks and sounds right but have to ask about Allen keys since there seems to be 2 sizes to loosen it.
**edit
I was told from the company selling the KP017 part :
I have checked the Allen key sizes and the inner size to tighten into the steertube is a size 5 and the black top cap is a size 6. Hope this helps.
The KP017 is quite stiff to loosen and all I ever got it to do was raise it a height of a finger before checking out the rounded Allen key thread and putting it back flush. If I manage to take it out completely can I just put I in the replacement back in ?
One company told me it was this part for £14 which is cheap enough.
http://qwertycycles.co.uk/products/cann ... edge-kp017" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
It looks and sounds right but have to ask about Allen keys since there seems to be 2 sizes to loosen it.
**edit
I was told from the company selling the KP017 part :
I have checked the Allen key sizes and the inner size to tighten into the steertube is a size 5 and the black top cap is a size 6. Hope this helps.
The KP017 is quite stiff to loosen and all I ever got it to do was raise it a height of a finger before checking out the rounded Allen key thread and putting it back flush. If I manage to take it out completely can I just put I in the replacement back in ?
