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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 5:23 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 28, 2012 6:47 am
Posts: 35
Location: Liverpool
Hi everyone, I've made a few more changes this month for not that much cash outlay and managed to get the weight of my Boardman down below the 22lbs / 10kg mark, which I'm very happy with. I hadn't expected to achieve this figure yet but it was the huge shift in the weights of the tyres and tubes that have made the biggest difference.

More importantly the bike now feels great to ride and really dialled in, it took me a bit of time to settle on a riding position that worked for me but as you can see from the photos it now sits much better than it previously did and it actually feels much lighter to handle in every way.

Recent jobs were: Cutting the excess steerer tube, losing the spacers, new stem, new tubes, new tyres and re-replaced the headset top cap and bolt for an even lighter combined MT Zoom one.
All of these changes and mainly the tyres and tubes have brought the weights down to 21.949 lbs / 9.956 kg
Current spend is £876 and I've just got hold of a second hand FSA Afterburner BB30 crankset which should save me at the very least 100 grams when fitted, I'll update the figures again when I get that job done as it'll probably be the last for some time.

I've added another spreadsheet below with all new weights and some new photos. Hope you like.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9z1xJ3 ... edit?pli=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Image
RSF1 (1) by Chuck-light, on Flickr

Image
rs1 (7) by Chuck-light, on Flickr

Image
rs1 by Chuck-light, on Flickr

Image
LSF1 (4) by Chuck-light, on Flickr

Image
sl1 (4) by Chuck-light, on Flickr

Cut steerer and no spacers:
Image
DSC09760 by Chuck-light, on Flickr

90mm with 5 degree rise, weighed exactly 96 grams on my scale:
Image
DSC09763 by Chuck-light, on Flickr

MT Zoom top cap:
Image
DSC09766 by Chuck-light, on Flickr

Continental Seed King 2.1 Supersonics = Light as a feather:
Image
DSC09753 by Chuck-light, on Flickr

Nice sweeps and curves:
Image
DSC09737 by Chuck-light, on Flickr

Original post:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=103565" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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Bike: 2012 Boardman HT Pro MTB - 21.838lbs / 9.906kg (for now...)


Last edited by chucklight on Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:08 pm, edited 4 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 5:34 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 15, 2012 2:25 pm
Posts: 44
It is a great bike and now the weight matches it.

I was thinking about the same with my HT Pro.

P.S. I see it is not only mine with too long front brake cable :)

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Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 5:34 pm 


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 5:47 pm 
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Location: Liverpool
Thanks mate, it's definitely been worth it. Very happy with it.
If nothing else it's worth changing the tyres and tubes, I couldn't believe the weight benefits.

I don't know what they were thinking with that brake cable, where were they expecting it to go? I've not looked at how to shorten it yet, will be a job for a rainy day over the winter I reckon.

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Bike: 2012 Boardman HT Pro MTB - 21.838lbs / 9.906kg (for now...)


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:23 pm 
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Have you had any problems with BB30? Mine had to be looked at 4 times and on top of that KMC chain snapped - all happened inside 6 months after I bought it - very annoying!

Done the same upgrades, handle bar + stem, saddle + seapost, headset and tires :)

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 7:14 pm 
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Location: Liverpool
Yeah one of the FSA bearings collapsed, no idea why. It's an FSA part so I guess they're the ones to blame. Got to say though Halfords were great. They replaced it straight away no questions asked, pretty good as it wasn't me who purchased the bike from them. Absolutely no problems since then.
Has yours been fine since, did you get all the jobs done under the warranty?

You should put a build list and photos up.

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Bike: 2012 Boardman HT Pro MTB - 21.838lbs / 9.906kg (for now...)


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 7:43 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2012 3:41 pm
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Location: Noth London
Nice work, bike is looking great and I'm sure it rides great too !

Can I ask what the starting weight of your bike was before you started changing things? Actually, ignore that, I just read the link in your other post, 11.42kg.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 8:46 pm 
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Location: Liverpool
Thanks mate, the 11.42kg was weighed after the reflectors, plastic cassette guard and mega heavy Wellgo pedals were removed. All the weights are without pedals.
Other than the weight loss work that can be done for free it's cost me £276 to bring the weight down, the only other relatively cheap job left (apart from the crankset I've still yet to fit, that'll take me to £300) are brake rotors but I'm not going to replace them until the current ones are causing problems.

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Bike: 2012 Boardman HT Pro MTB - 21.838lbs / 9.906kg (for now...)


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 10:44 am 
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Location: Noth London
Good work !

My problem is I always look to buy new stuff rather than 2nd hand, so it always works out more expensive ! lol

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Aim : to get a 12.2kg Rockhopper down in the 10's !!

My sloooow weight loss project!


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 2:57 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 26, 2006 8:59 pm
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Location: UK
Have you thought about running a single chain ring up front? That would save a bit of weight.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 4:13 pm 
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Location: New Forest - UK
those mavic rims are pretty heavy... a set of stans crests or similar would save a chunk for not a ridiculous additional spend... and any weight saved from rotating unsprung mass is worth a stack more elsewhere on the bike.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 6:48 pm 
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Location: Liverpool
colinmack wrote:
Have you thought about running a single chain ring up front? That would save a bit of weight.


That's definitely something to consider for the future, though this year because of injury I've not really done enough riding on different types of terrain so I couldn't give a definative answer to what an ideal set-up would be. I'd love to lose it though, I honestly never use the inner ring at the moment. Quite often on the road I need more gears whilst descending, there must be a more ideal set up I reckon but that's for another time.



Quote:
those mavic rims are pretty heavy... a set of stans crests or similar would save a chunk for not a ridiculous additional spend... and any weight saved from rotating unsprung mass is worth a stack more elsewhere on the bike.


As I've said before, I made a conscious choice to leave the wheelset alone and to replace the more interchangeable parts. I'm happy that I did as I've enjoyed the fettling, learning and research that I've done searching for the best parts that I can afford for what i want to achieve. The wheels are in great condition and I can't justify spending out on a new set at the moment so they'll stay until either I'm feeling rather flush or they need replacing.
Now that the bike is pretty much where I'm happy with I'm looking to grow into it and learn what may be the best way to go in future, a new wheelset will definitely be something to look at in future but I'm made up with the figure that I've got to without spending a massive amount.

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Bike: 2012 Boardman HT Pro MTB - 21.838lbs / 9.906kg (for now...)


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 7:52 pm 
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What about Ti and alu bolts? Alu will give you 50gr easily at the cheap.

I nearly upgraded all bolts due to the fact that summer in Dublin is so dry:) No corrosion after 12 months.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 9:39 am 
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Location: Sunny UK
good work.

you can reduce the weight of the shifter cable, as long as there is enough slcakc for full movement of the bars.

also the frnot brake cable is way too long :shock: - shortening it is not too difficult - one nut to unscrew at the brake lever, cut hose to length. remove the crushed olive - I use a dremel disc to split it, then use a sharp knife to cut off the brake inner hose from around the barbed insert - you can reuse the insert - I've done it many a time. then fit a new olive and fit the insert - you need to hold the hose in special blocks (if you need a pair, PM and I'll send them to you, and may even pop in an olive for you) and push the insert in - I hold the blocks with pliers and use a small hammer for that - that is the most difficult part of the procedure. then push the hose in and do up the bolt. simples.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 10:09 am 
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Location: NoVA/DC
being that those are avid brakes, you should be able to skip the dremel, etc. and just unscrew the barb with a t10 torx wrench. sometimes avid uses other barbs in OE brakes, though...
disc hose goes on the inside of fork leg, btw


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Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 10:09 am 


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 9:42 am 
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thisisatest wrote:
disc hose goes on the inside of fork leg, btw



yes .... I was gonna say that too - it is less likely to get snagged on a branch or similar.


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