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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 7:52 am 
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The cut off bolts worked perfect! Probably didn't save much weight but it looks cleaner.

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Posted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 7:52 am 


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2012 10:10 am 
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Brakes next or is that TOO weenie...
(I kid myself, nothing is too weenie right?)

No but seriously, I know the DA brakes will always be chubby chubby but imagine dropping some weight off those and still keeping the braking performance...


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 12:23 am 
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Nothing is to weenie haha but I know someone that machined out some DA brakes and they did get pretty flexy. Im running the AX lightness calipers right now at 107 grams so im ok there! :)

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 4:56 am 
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Location: S.E. TN
I think you could probably remove a chunk of material and still retain their stiffness. You'd have to maintain their outline and not monkey with the pivots. A lot of the KCNC's flex comes from play in the pivots, especially the 1st gen. where you have aluminum on aluminum.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 2:17 pm 
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[quote="Frankie - B"]Do we need to ban psm from weight weenies because of his responses. I suggest a couple of hours, purely for not being ww enough. ;)

:lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 2:20 pm 
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DRILL THE FRAME AS WELL !! :D


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 8:02 pm 
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HAHA THATS NEXT!! .......not

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 8:46 pm 
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Location: Denver, CO
very cool. it looks very race only.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 11:31 pm 
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mad, but i gotta ask - did you make the arm thing on FD shorter with the tuned part? Would not that make shifts require more effort?

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 6:27 am 
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Nope the arm is the same length!

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 6:35 am 
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kevosinn wrote:
The cut off bolts worked perfect! Probably didn't save much weight but it looks cleaner.


How long were the bolts after you had cut them down? Would these have fit/done the job (the "Titanium Platform Pedal / Socket Set Screws" on the page below). Being allen head grub screws, it wouldn't matter if they didn't protrude from the top of the derailleur so that you can use a screwdriver. Not sure if there would be a much of a weight difference between a cut down Al bolt vs a slightly recessed Ti grub screw, though the latter might be more elegant.

http://www.torontocycles.com/Selling/Titanium.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I think they also sell an 11mm long version.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2012 5:36 am 
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Location: Queensland Australia
I love Colnago's and I love Tuning, Both together is TOTALY AWESOME!!!
Top work, I like the bare essentials look that tuning gives, Yes Racy, is what somebody mentioned. I agree. :beerchug:

I am about to attack my brand spankers XTR front mech (which unfortunately weighed exactly the same as my cheapo no name brand front mech, 127gr) and shifters that are for my rather average Triple Tandem. All in the pursuit of weight Weenieness, not looks. 8)

austke

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2012 6:28 am 
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Does it effect the function of the rear mech at all with all the changes?

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2012 2:50 pm 
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I'm ok with this. I think I draw the line at drilling structural components. IE wheels, seat post, frame, saddle rails... Although I am aware others here have no qualms with this...


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 2:18 am 
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The front and rear derailleur work EXACTLY the same as stock. You really can't tell a difference. I'm planning on drilling it out more to get it under 140 grams.

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Posted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 2:18 am 


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