Buying used Dura Ace WH-7850-C24-CL

[BTM]

Hey all, I'm considering picking these up locally. The seller says he bought them as new take offs and has ridden them less than 500mi. They appear authentic to me, but I figured I'd get some second opinions. I was planning on buying wheels later, but looking on craigslist I found these and all the reviews and searches point to them being a well respected wheelset, and am thinking if I'm going to upgrade wheels eventually, why not. Right now I'm on WH-R500











Are there a lot of fake Dura-Ace wheels out there? Assuming they are real and in the condition the seller claims, what would you estimate the value to be? Seller has them listed for $650, no cassette, with tires (not sure which) and with skewers.

Thanks for reading.

[Werdna]

Looks authentic. Oversized red nipples, the rim has those boxy extrusions where the nipple sits.

[BTM]

My thoughts too, but you can never be too careful these days. Perhaps there is a serial number somewhere to look at? The seller says he had them on his single speed which he doesn't ride often (hence the low claimed mileage). Knowing next to nothing about single speeds, would the rear hub be any different for some reason, IE unable to accept a 10sp Shimano/SRAM cassette? Sorry for the newb questions, I am searching as fast and best I can at the same time.

Well I found this RE the serial number

http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content ... ility.html

Hopefully seller is cool with taking the tires off...

[system787]

The seller has a spacer kit with a single speed cog that is similar to a cassette, so I wouldn't doubt that the wheelset is legitimate. Everything checks out, but be sure to look for any signs of cracks or warping along the rim, and check to see that all spokes are intact. Remove the tires and check the rim bed as well

Those hubs can be adjusted to remove any play you might find. Bearings, cup and cones are easily servicable/replaced.

[BTM]

Thanks, I am feeling better about the legitimacy of the wheelset. I will check them out in person.

[NealH]

The DA wheels are top shelf in every [url]respect. I have two pairs of 7850 C24's and these have been bombproof and they ride superbly. However, I favor buying new - the reason is that you would get the newer 7900-C24 which is virtually the same wheel but with an upgraded hub and adjustment mechanism, the wheel bags and the original DA skewers. And they are new, and Shimano warranties them regardless of where you buy them, and they don't cost much more than you are considering. The drawback is that they have to be ordered from the UK. Going local has its advantages. Regardless, they are excellent wheels.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=76726

[Geoff]

The Dura-Ace wheel is unmistakable. I cannot imagine that there is any market for making a knock-off extrusion for that! In any event, as soon as you see them, you'll know. They are things of beauty. Personally, I would recommend the TL version. That way, you have the choice...

[Leviathan]

A bit o/t but perhaps helpful:
Put a metal ruler across the brake rims to check they are not concave, and also check the rim thickness vs new ones. I got completely sh**fted by a guy who sells on here who told me a set of these had "one seasons use" but they were completely unridable even though the hubs & generally were in great condition. The sense I got from the shimano rep is that the wheels are well made and so often can appear in great nick even though the rim is completely "gastado".

(As for me ita all OK I know where the guy lives and its all coming around!)

[BTM]

Thank you everyone for your comments. I'm glad to continue to hear good things about the wheels as a good choice.

NealH: I generally prefer buying new as well, but were that the case I would like to support the LBS where the Dura-Ace 7900 are over a grand, and other carbon wheels are even more than that. I'm not going to discount anyone's experience with Chain Reaction but I am a little sour on them since I still haven't received my "in stock" bottle cages ordered a month ago. I had to email a sales rep to ask if they were in fact out of stock, and they were shipped immediately (or so I was told).

Geoff: I'm really not "set" on the CL over the TL, but I am most familiar with clinchers (never rode tubeless) and since the CL is what they guy has, it's really the only option. If these don't work out or we can't make a deal, I'll certainly keep tubeless in mind.

Leviathan: I will certainly check the brake track (the aluminum being a big selling point for me) to make sure they reflect the claimed "sub 500" mileage.

[shotgun]

I've used mine for thousands of kms without any hitch and loved them to bits. However, I began to notice some flaking on the very top thin layer of clearcoat. It didn't seem to affect anything except the visual aspect. I just removed the flakes as they developed.

[rambotan]

They have one of the smoothest hubs I have used over the years (7900CL). Never regretted getting them. I wrecked a rear as a result of a puncture and did not hesitate getting a replacement.

[billysan]

I have no experience of 7850-C24-CL's, but do have RS80's (same rim), and 7900-C50-CL's (similar hubs).

My only concern with buying used is regarding the extent of the wear the wheels have been subject to. The braking surface is quite thin when compared to other aluminium brake track rims. I wore out a rear RS80 rim in only 15 months use. (The width of the brake tracks measuring 19.6mm when I retired them, wear indicators completely gone. Original width is 20.8mm)

My exprience of buying second hand equipment (most of my kit is), is that quoted levels of use are often 'optomistic'.

If you can I would have a look and decide for yourself if 500 miles seems genuine.

[shotgun]

following after billysan, there are wear indicators on the C24 as well. Best to check them out to be sure.

[BTM]

Wear indicators, very good to know! I'm assuming they are little holes on the brake track? Can anyone in this thread who has the wheelset comment on how deep theirs are after how many miles? I know it's a function of the brake pad too, but just a way for me to ballpark. I read a review saying the Dura-Ace wheels had a thinner brake track as it is (as well as was mentioned above...)

Billysan- thanks for the specs regarding your brake track. How did you measure, were you able to get calipers on it? I also have a tire tread depth gauge but the plunger on the gauge is probably to big in diameter for the wear indicator.

Thanks!

[jasjas]

i didnt think the RS80 & 7850 cl/tl had a thinner brake track, i was under the impression that the "thinner" bit came from the machining of the wheel rim to lose weight and then bond carbon to strengthen the rim? the brake track remaining the same as any other DA alloy wheel.
If they ve only done 500 miles then the brake track should be like new, my 7850s have done about 1500miles (racing and sportive), about 200 in the wet and they ve no appreciable wear at all.

Personally, on other alloy wheels, i have found that std shimano DA pads, in the wet (uk shitty roads) eat up brake tracks and that since i ve moved to Swisstop GHP pads, rim wear is far far less.