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PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 6:30 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2011 4:04 pm
Posts: 514
Location: Sunny UK
after mkI version failed on Saturday, part of Sunday pm was spent making mk II version.

Drill three holes in the steerer and tap to M3. Drill and tap a section of aluminium alloy to M6 and shape to fit inside the steerer, then trim to lose wieght (final wieght 5 g). Use 3 3 x 3 mm grub screw to keep in place ensuring they do not protrude beyond the steerer. Job done.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2012 5:52 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2011 5:25 pm
Posts: 169
I like it!

What's the difference between mk1 and mk2?


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2012 8:51 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2011 4:04 pm
Posts: 514
Location: Sunny UK
mk1 used a disc with a tapered edge and a thin strip of aluminium so that it would wedge itself inside the steerer .... except after a couple of rides it didn't. This one should stay put.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2012 7:40 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2004 12:52 pm
Posts: 358
Location: in rocks and roots
:?:
To use a half of an usual star is lighter and works without issues :noidea:


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2012 10:02 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2012 4:23 pm
Posts: 690
Location: Midlands, United Kingdom
02GF74 wrote:
except after a couple of rides it didn't.

Surely once the headset is preloaded and the stem done up the SFN (or whatever) takes no load, so shouldn't fail - In fact a friend advocates using a home made bolt through like a head doctor and then takes it off after the stem is done up....I prefer the idea of having mid ride maintenance possible!

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Budget 26" HT build viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110956


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 9:12 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2011 4:04 pm
Posts: 514
Location: Sunny UK
good point - the stem holds the assembly together, still have no expllanation as to had loosened (most likely not done up correctly in first place)

usually I use a steel bolt to preload the h/s, then fit alloy bolt, in that instance I did not do that. :(


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