Titanium longevity
Moderator: robbosmans
You're absolutely right, need to wait and see what grade they offer first.
If by some stroke of luck they were to offer one of the higher end, US made Madones, then i would be tempted to give it a try.
If not, then like you say it would more than likely be sold to go toward funding another ti, or possibly steel frame.
If by some stroke of luck they were to offer one of the higher end, US made Madones, then i would be tempted to give it a try.
If not, then like you say it would more than likely be sold to go toward funding another ti, or possibly steel frame.
My Titanium Lemond (RIP):
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=84352" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
The Trek:
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=109635
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=84352" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
The Trek:
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=109635
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I thought Ti frames never cracked, corroded or degraded and were true "bikes for life"????
LOL, actually I didn't but many Ti devotees wrongly do.
Pleased you found the Ti fault.
LOL, actually I didn't but many Ti devotees wrongly do.
Pleased you found the Ti fault.
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Stiff, Light, Aero - Pick Three!!
Stiff, Light, Aero - Pick Three!!
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Like any frame, it's not the material as much the builder which will lead to a frame cracking.
So to say choose stainless as it won't crack is simply wrong.
And those who think their ti bike won't crack might simply be repeating what they were told... (ie: the sales pitch that had them hand over their hard earned).
So to say choose stainless as it won't crack is simply wrong.
And those who think their ti bike won't crack might simply be repeating what they were told... (ie: the sales pitch that had them hand over their hard earned).
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I have a 650 Litespeed Vortex and the right base cracked!
it's been repaired by Jean Pierre Levacon in FRANCE and now , it's right !!
picture after:
when repaire by Jean Pierre:
after the repair:
the complete bike :
it's been repaired by Jean Pierre Levacon in FRANCE and now , it's right !!
picture after:
when repaire by Jean Pierre:
after the repair:
the complete bike :
Get the heat / weld wrong and ti will fail... The cracks in this thread are all down to manufacturer error.
Get it right and the fatigue life of ti is generally better than steel or alu of any comparable weight...
Get it right and the fatigue life of ti is generally better than steel or alu of any comparable weight...
If you ignore weight and or take things more completely out of cycling context, that would be a good point.
That said, Steel and Alu failures are typically around bad welds too.
That said, Steel and Alu failures are typically around bad welds too.
CharlesM wrote:Get the heat / weld wrong and ti will fail... The cracks in this thread are all down to manufacturer error.
Get it right and the fatigue life of ti is generally better than steel or alu of any comparable weight...
If that's true it's even more worrying given the brands in this thread include pre-eminent Ti specialists.
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Stiff, Light, Aero - Pick Three!!
Stiff, Light, Aero - Pick Three!!
I wouldnt worry much about the brands mentioned... They're going to have the odd issue like every other manufacturer.
Of course this is the Internet so if the same failure gets re-reported 100 times, people will claim trek or lite speed have had a hundred failures
Of course this is the Internet so if the same failure gets re-reported 100 times, people will claim trek or lite speed have had a hundred failures
Interesting point there about the pressure values for each material, not what i would have expected.
As for manufacturers, in my situation, as the frame split on the tube i would have to say that it would be Reynolds as the tube maufacturer that were ultimately at fault rather than the frame builder, as there was no problem with any of the welds.
Also, i am pretty sure that i read somewhere that Lemond Ti frames were actually subcontracted to be built by either Lightspeed or Merlin ( can't remember which ) - both as Charles said, well respected Ti frame builders. So it would be rather unfair to hold Trek directly responsible on this occasion. Although depending on how they ultimately respond to the problem i reserve the right to change my opinion!
As for manufacturers, in my situation, as the frame split on the tube i would have to say that it would be Reynolds as the tube maufacturer that were ultimately at fault rather than the frame builder, as there was no problem with any of the welds.
Also, i am pretty sure that i read somewhere that Lemond Ti frames were actually subcontracted to be built by either Lightspeed or Merlin ( can't remember which ) - both as Charles said, well respected Ti frame builders. So it would be rather unfair to hold Trek directly responsible on this occasion. Although depending on how they ultimately respond to the problem i reserve the right to change my opinion!
My Titanium Lemond (RIP):
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=84352" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
The Trek:
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=109635
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=84352" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
The Trek:
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=109635
understand that a bad weld doesnt mean failing at/on the weld material in most cases.
It more frequently means a failure in the area around the weld or between close welds where heat wasn't properly handled.
The weld material it's self is usually fine but the bad weld damages the thin tube material around it.
Sometimes its the tube material right at the edge of the weld but other times it will be the area at the edge of where the heat changed the structure of the metal... The crack can be a half inch or inch away from the actual weld at the seam where the improperly heated material meets undamaged material (within the same tube).
Other times it will follow a seam or shape / fold away from a weld (like the Litespeed above). It was a mistake welding process that made for the weak spot and or sometimes a poor design like the loads of cracks at poorly engineered gussets on lots of mountain bikes. Sometimes a design requires too many passes or two much jeat concentration.
It more frequently means a failure in the area around the weld or between close welds where heat wasn't properly handled.
The weld material it's self is usually fine but the bad weld damages the thin tube material around it.
Sometimes its the tube material right at the edge of the weld but other times it will be the area at the edge of where the heat changed the structure of the metal... The crack can be a half inch or inch away from the actual weld at the seam where the improperly heated material meets undamaged material (within the same tube).
Other times it will follow a seam or shape / fold away from a weld (like the Litespeed above). It was a mistake welding process that made for the weak spot and or sometimes a poor design like the loads of cracks at poorly engineered gussets on lots of mountain bikes. Sometimes a design requires too many passes or two much jeat concentration.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com