Hi all,

I'm trying to remove paint from an AX Lightness fork as it was previously painted black. I want to see the bare carbon. Do I run the risk of sanding the carbon and affecting the structural integrity of these forks? I assumed it was impossible to remove the paint without sanding any carbon at all. Should I use some kind of paint stripper - It seems Carbo-Lift aren't active anymore - could anyone suggest a good alternative available in the UK?

Also I guess it will need a clear finish on the forks as the bare carbon won't like direct sunlight?

Thanks in advance!

Ask at a marine shop - they have paint strippers that are formulated to not damage the resin of fiberglass boats.

_________________
http://www.speedtheory.co.nz

_________________
http://www.hackracer.com/

Use a razor blade and scrape off paint, fastest and most friendly for the carbon underneath the paint.

_________________
Experimental Prototype

Razor blading seems to work okay. Sanding works fine also. Carbolift sucks, but there are other products. Do make sure they don't damage the epoxy. Another option is soda blasting.

_________________
My Renovo R1 wooden bike project

Check it out: the most amazing vintage Colnago, Merckx and Pinarello collection

I do recommend razoring in front of sanding for a unexperienced person as in this case a weightweenie fork, its easy to sand too much or use too fine paper and be impatient.

Razoring cannot pass one layer of carbon before it gets blunt, and the dust is OK compared to carbon dust.

_________________
Experimental Prototype

Thanks guys for the advice. I'll give the razors a go.

The razor technique is going well. It takes ages but I'm getting through it.

Now, my next question is will this need a clearcoat over the top? Are there any specific products that I should steer away from?

Three options:

A) Clearcoat (one that is for outdoor/UV use)
- This can be done at an auto shop if you prep it yourself. They have access to the good stuff that may not be available for sale to consumers depending on local environmental laws, including cleatcoat that is flexible (which is good), any finish.
- Buy a spray can yourself. Short sprays in duration, 6" approx distance from target. Let dry. Light sand with utlra-fine grit. Repeat. Buff finish.


B) Use 303 Aerospace protectant. It works, it is lighter. Needs to be re-applied every so often though.

C) I've heard a wax coat works, but you'll need to re-apply this too.

_________________
Exp001

Thanks Prendrefeu that's massive help. I'm quite keen on that 303 protectant, I might give that a go. How often do you think I should replace it - every time I clean my bike perhaps?

That I don't know, you may have to do some digging for that answer. Some people on this site use it, and I think they recoat every 2-3 months (off the top of my head) depending on how often they wash the bike.

_________________
Exp001

I recently used the 303 protectant on my stripped Trek frame. The finish is really nice. I plan on reapplying quarterly. Calfee and Parlee use 303 on their nude frames if you're looking for finish examples.

_________________
Trek 5500 - 13.75lbs on a $1400 Budget
20 gram 1x10 chain guide

I was under the impression nude Parlee frames are waxed and don't need more than one application...

_________________
My Renovo R1 wooden bike project

Check it out: the most amazing vintage Colnago, Merckx and Pinarello collection

Alternatively you (CarpetFibre) could just call Parlee and see what their recommendation is: wax or 303, and how often.

They know carbon.

_________________
Exp001

What is the line running all the way down the fork just above the ax logo ? Looks like you have taken a strip of carbon off or is that how it was? Can you feel a groove in that line?