Sanding an AX fork - Complete pics on page 2
Moderator: robbosmans
-
- Posts: 556
- Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2010 10:24 am
Hi all,
I'm trying to remove paint from an AX Lightness fork as it was previously painted black. I want to see the bare carbon. Do I run the risk of sanding the carbon and affecting the structural integrity of these forks? I assumed it was impossible to remove the paint without sanding any carbon at all. Should I use some kind of paint stripper - It seems Carbo-Lift aren't active anymore - could anyone suggest a good alternative available in the UK?
Also I guess it will need a clear finish on the forks as the bare carbon won't like direct sunlight?
Thanks in advance!
I'm trying to remove paint from an AX Lightness fork as it was previously painted black. I want to see the bare carbon. Do I run the risk of sanding the carbon and affecting the structural integrity of these forks? I assumed it was impossible to remove the paint without sanding any carbon at all. Should I use some kind of paint stripper - It seems Carbo-Lift aren't active anymore - could anyone suggest a good alternative available in the UK?
Also I guess it will need a clear finish on the forks as the bare carbon won't like direct sunlight?
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by CarpetFibre on Tue Jul 31, 2012 8:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-
- Posts: 854
- Joined: Tue Jul 18, 2006 5:18 am
- Location: Cambridge, New Zealand
- Contact:
Ask at a marine shop - they have paint strippers that are formulated to not damage the resin of fiberglass boats.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
- Mattias Hellöre
- in the industry
- Posts: 531
- Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2005 6:34 pm
- Location: Insjön, SWEDEN
- Contact:
Use a razor blade and scrape off paint, fastest and most friendly for the carbon underneath the paint.
Experimental Prototype
- Mattias Hellöre
- in the industry
- Posts: 531
- Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2005 6:34 pm
- Location: Insjön, SWEDEN
- Contact:
I do recommend razoring in front of sanding for a unexperienced person as in this case a weightweenie fork, its easy to sand too much or use too fine paper and be impatient.
Razoring cannot pass one layer of carbon before it gets blunt, and the dust is OK compared to carbon dust.
Razoring cannot pass one layer of carbon before it gets blunt, and the dust is OK compared to carbon dust.
Experimental Prototype
-
- Posts: 556
- Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2010 10:24 am
Thanks guys for the advice. I'll give the razors a go.
-
- Posts: 556
- Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2010 10:24 am
The razor technique is going well. It takes ages but I'm getting through it.
Now, my next question is will this need a clearcoat over the top? Are there any specific products that I should steer away from?
Now, my next question is will this need a clearcoat over the top? Are there any specific products that I should steer away from?
- prendrefeu
- Posts: 8580
- Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2007 10:32 pm
- Location: Glendale / Los Angeles, California
- Contact:
Three options:
A) Clearcoat (one that is for outdoor/UV use)
- This can be done at an auto shop if you prep it yourself. They have access to the good stuff that may not be available for sale to consumers depending on local environmental laws, including cleatcoat that is flexible (which is good), any finish.
- Buy a spray can yourself. Short sprays in duration, 6" approx distance from target. Let dry. Light sand with utlra-fine grit. Repeat. Buff finish.
B) Use 303 Aerospace protectant. It works, it is lighter. Needs to be re-applied every so often though.
C) I've heard a wax coat works, but you'll need to re-apply this too.
A) Clearcoat (one that is for outdoor/UV use)
- This can be done at an auto shop if you prep it yourself. They have access to the good stuff that may not be available for sale to consumers depending on local environmental laws, including cleatcoat that is flexible (which is good), any finish.
- Buy a spray can yourself. Short sprays in duration, 6" approx distance from target. Let dry. Light sand with utlra-fine grit. Repeat. Buff finish.
B) Use 303 Aerospace protectant. It works, it is lighter. Needs to be re-applied every so often though.
C) I've heard a wax coat works, but you'll need to re-apply this too.
Exp001 || Other projects in the works.
-
- Posts: 556
- Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2010 10:24 am
Thanks Prendrefeu that's massive help. I'm quite keen on that 303 protectant, I might give that a go. How often do you think I should replace it - every time I clean my bike perhaps?
- prendrefeu
- Posts: 8580
- Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2007 10:32 pm
- Location: Glendale / Los Angeles, California
- Contact:
That I don't know, you may have to do some digging for that answer. Some people on this site use it, and I think they recoat every 2-3 months (off the top of my head) depending on how often they wash the bike.
Exp001 || Other projects in the works.
- 2002maniac
- Posts: 183
- Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2012 3:16 pm
- Location: Utah, USA
- Contact:
I recently used the 303 protectant on my stripped Trek frame. The finish is really nice. I plan on reapplying quarterly. Calfee and Parlee use 303 on their nude frames if you're looking for finish examples.
- prendrefeu
- Posts: 8580
- Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2007 10:32 pm
- Location: Glendale / Los Angeles, California
- Contact:
Alternatively you (CarpetFibre) could just call Parlee and see what their recommendation is: wax or 303, and how often.
They know carbon.
They know carbon.
Exp001 || Other projects in the works.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com