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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 7:09 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 30, 2012 3:29 pm
Posts: 12
Hi All,

I recently started modifying my Specialized Langster, and I am interested in adding a double road crank (something like 39/53) to the bike along with a chain tensioner (Paul Melvin?). I assume I will need a new bottom bracket as well...this is my current setup, which is the stock components on the Langster:

68mm x103mm square taper bottom bracket
Sugino Zen Messenger 42T crankset
KMC Z-510HX 1 Speed chain (1/8")

I have new wheels incoming, and the rear wheel has a White Industries ENO 16T freewheel. As far as I can tell, this freewheel/cog from White Industries accepts a 3/32" chain, which I assume I will need to switch to if I'm going to be shifting with a front derailleur in the future.

I guess I am just looking for suggestions in terms of what my options are, and if doing something like this is even possible.
If this is doable, my questions are:

1) What size bottom bracket should I get, and are they universally compatible with most frames? Does the frame size define the width of the bottom bracket that you can install?

2) Are there clearance considerations that should be make when choosing the chainring sizes, or are the clearances defined by the size on the bottom bracket that is chosen?

3) I assume I need to get a new chain, but how is the number of links that should be in the chain determined?

4) Because my frame has horizontal dropouts, do i need to install some type or rear derailleur hanger in order to install the chain tensioner?

5) Once I have the double crank installed, I don't mind manually switching between the two gears for the short term. I use the bike as a commuter and its slightly uphill the entire way there and slightly downhill the entire way back. When I do go to install a front derailleur, will I need to have cable mounts welded onto my frame, or is there another way?

At first glance, I was thinking that something like this might be good:

crankset:
http://store.somafab.com/irdderodocr.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

bottom bracket:
http://store.somafab.com/irdqbjissqta.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


Thoughts? Thanks so much for any advice!

Dave


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Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 7:09 pm 


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 7:44 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 29, 2007 4:38 am
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Location: TN
I can't think of any chain tensioner that will work on those horizontal drop-outs, do you have one in mind?


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 7:55 pm 
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I dont have a specific hanger in mind, but I saw this page on the specialized website:

http://www.specialized.com/us/en/ftb/co ... eurhangers

perhaps one of those will work, and then i can use the melvin?


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 8:15 pm 
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actually, what about this one?:

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping ... p?id=20611


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 8:49 pm 
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I had never seen something like that before. It seems like it should work, though you may have trouble keeping the chain on in the big ring; the rear has 120 mm spacing which will put the cog in 1cm further than a double crank expects - you may have chainline issues.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 9:13 pm 
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if you go with it, I'll be happy to take that old single speed crank/BB off your hands, PM me when you get that far and we can figure it out.

For a front derailler I would just get a mountain bike top pull tube clamp model, and then route the cable over your top tube and down your seatpost you can use these if you want to be fancy:
http://www.amazon.com/Jagwire-Alloy-Stick-On-Bicycle-Guides/dp/B004EDIJUC

I would run the housing as long as possible too.

if this is a commuter the top pull/full housing is about as trouble free as you can get...


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 9:28 pm 
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
I still cannot see how chain tugs will allow for the chain wrap change when shifting at the front. On a compact you have 16T difference which is 4" chain wrap or that means the wheel would have to move 2" without a tensioner to accomadte the a shift from small to big.

Would not a FSA Metropolis crankset be a better option. No front mech needed or shifter. Made for commutor use really. How about a Sturmey 3 speed hub instead.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 9:30 pm 
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The point was that those chain tugs would then include a derailleur hanger to bolt on a spring-type chain tensioner.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 9:41 pm 
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The 1994-1996 Dura-Ace crank FC-7410 will work with your 103mm square taper BB spindle:

http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx? ... &AbsPos=37


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 9:49 pm 
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Location: Wiltshire, UK
Campagnolo used to make a front mech that had an outer cable stop built in. I think Suntour did also thyinking about it. Unsure of model numbers.

One of these would allow you to run a full length outer cable and just use cable ties to attach it to the frame.

Keep an eye on ebay?


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 1:47 am 
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cool, thanks for the suggestions guys, I appreciate it!
And yes the tugs were merely to be able to add a chain tensioner to my frame that has horizontal dropouts.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 8:11 am 
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Any Campag Chorus or Record square taper chainset would work as they used a 103mm BB. Might be hard to find though.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 9:47 am 
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
campag square taper is ISO the Sugio chainset maybebe JIS (they did some ISO track cranksets according to Sheldon Brown).

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 2:55 pm 
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Why the Eno hub?? That is made to allow for chain tensions adjustments when using vertical dropouts.

Double check the frame has 120mm spacing on the rear end. Pretty sure the Eno is only 130 and 135mm

You might have an issue mounting the f-der. If specalized used any sort of tube shaping or odd sized tubes you might not be able to clamp the f-der to it.

You might have issues with the chain rings clearing the stays. Because ot was never designed for 2 rings, and rings much over a 50 they may not of put dimples or bends into the stays. They way around this is to run a longer BB axle, but that can lead to other issues.

Does the frame fork have holes for brakes? At least on the fork? With using the freewheel you loos the option of slowing down with the pedals like you do on a fixie.


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Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 2:55 pm 


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