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PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 10:06 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 8:15 pm
Posts: 221
Location: Northern Virginia
Been away for a few years. When last we visited...I have an '05 Trek Madone 5.2 SL that has been basically rebuilt with (at that time at least) the best WW stuff I could get that was within the realm or reasonableness. Its a size 60cm so there's extra weight due to size. As memory serves (I am not looking at it right now) the build is:

Madone SL Frame
Easton SLX fork
Easton SLX bars (44 I think)
Full D/A 7800 front/rear ders
Full D/A 7800 shifters
Full D/A 7800 cranks w/ ceramic 175mm
Token cassette
KMC X10 SL chain
Zero G brake calipers
FSA stem (was around 120gms if memory serves)
Bonty XXX Lite carbon tubulars
Conti sprinter tubbies
Spin Stix skewers
Performance brand carbon seatpost (was lighter than Eastons)
SLR saddle
Speedplay Zero pedals BTP tuned
Two carbon cages
Flightdeck computer (yes its heavier but I do like it)
Factory Bonty seat post clamp
Cane creek IS2 headset
some bar tape
some cables
some grease

All that is 14.6 lbs built.

So, that was done in 2007 or 2008. Now its 2012. I know that SRAM Red is good for at least half a pound between shifters and maybe ders. Think Token cassette and Zero Gravity brakes are still as light or lighter than SRAM red. But what are the realistic options to either sell this one outright, or swap out the D/A for SRAM for example? Is there anything else listed above that is clearly a dinosaur weight wise? And for a 60cm size, what's the best weight I'm going to get to and have it be safe to ride?

I am not looking to spend $10k nor do I care about custom built wheels or $100 seat post clamps that save 1g. I also know that a 60cm bike weighs more than a 53cm. If I go the new frame route, are the newer Fuji SL1 frames any lighter? What about the Jamis Xenith SL? And are the newer frames measurably better than what I have?

Thanks!


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Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 10:06 pm 


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 10:54 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2011 2:19 pm
Posts: 447
I read your list 3 times and I don't see how you could do too much better without dropping a ton of money for modest gains, so I guess my question is what is your budget? it might be cheaper to sell and start over??!?!


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 11:57 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:28 pm
Posts: 873
I don't think you could build a bike way lighter unless you wanted to spend tones of cash- I bet you could easily build one lighter that was way more roadworthy.
That Jamis or Fuji frame would be a great start. SRAM Red group- use the same wheels.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 12:00 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2008 6:14 am
Posts: 1115
Location: by Crystal Springs (Sawyer Creek Trail)
You're not going to see much weight loss without going to a new frameset or group.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 12:42 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 8:15 pm
Posts: 221
Location: Northern Virginia
Any thoughts on what the weight savings of the jamis or fuji would be vs the Madone?

And just to be sure - SRAM red shifters are 280gms for the pair? Vs over 400 for D/A?

I also have an FSA K force light carbon crank with ceramics that I have never installed for no real reason over than inertia. Not sure if it's comparable with SRAM red crankset on weight.

Thanks again.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 6:13 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 12, 2005 10:56 am
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Location: New Zealand
Cranks and cables (depending on what you have). Those cranks are nice and stiff but land-anchors.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 3:45 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 8:15 pm
Posts: 221
Location: Northern Virginia
I have found the next big thing for me. I think. The new cannondale supersix evo. The ultimate version is a hair under 11lbs off the shelf in 54cm i think. Shocking!! While I don't intend to spend $12k on that version I think I can buy a lower model (a mere $5500 msrp) and swap in my zero gravity, spin Stix, wheels and drop it under 13 lbs. Could be a couple of other items to shave some big weight too. I won't get it to 11 but even mid to upper 12s would be cool. And mostly it would get me stoked to ride again. Gotten slack lately need a new steed to motivate me.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 4:16 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 30, 2005 7:13 am
Posts: 1491
Surely, as you point out, the frame is where you have the most to lose. Though, if you are going to be component swapping to the new frame, then many high end frames are comparable in weight to the (non-ultimate) evo frames. Cannondale's claimed weights have not been so accurate, 56cm non-ultimate frames are coming in around 900 grams. Obviously lighter than your 05 Madone 5.2 SL, which in a 56cm was more around 1100-1150 grams.

Though, even Trek's 2012 5 series frames come in around 900 grams for the 56cm.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 5:21 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 8:15 pm
Posts: 221
Location: Northern Virginia
Good point. Any idea what the fuji SL or jamis xenith SL weigh?

It seems to me that I'm looking at maybe 1/2 lb less for a frame to be conservative. SRAM red should give me another 1/2 lb on shifters alone. Looked to me that front and rear ders were another maybe 50gms less than the 7800 DA.

I believe my zero g brakes and token cassette are as light as anything out there now.

Crankset is big question mark--clearly DA 7800 is not the standard but what's the savings with SRAM red or other newer set? No interest in strong light etc. as I want durability.

I'm starting to think the best i will see (short of heroic measures) is something in low to mid 13s. Does that seem accurate?


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 4:06 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:28 pm
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Aren't fuji and jamis bb30? Could go with cannondale hollow gram or rotor 3d+ and save a bunch of weight over 7800.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 4:14 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 21, 2008 9:02 pm
Posts: 150
Location: West Virginia
You could lose an ounce by going to a slotted/hollow pinned 11 speed chain. I think there's one that hovers around 228g uncut. You'll need a new chain eventually, no?

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 12:18 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2012 10:58 am
Posts: 19
Are you happy with the brake performance of your Zero Gs? I have them on one of my bikes, they're good enough that I'm not planning on replacing them, but I do wish they had more initial bite. I have to pull really hard if I want any decent stopping power in a hurry. In 2012, there are braking options which are nearly as light as ZG, but are more powerful. It might be worth looking at these for a functional upgrade, rather than a weight reduction.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 1:21 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2008 6:14 am
Posts: 1115
Location: by Crystal Springs (Sawyer Creek Trail)
There are brake options now that are lighter AND more powerful, and not in a crazy price range either (like AX lightness is)


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 6:26 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 8:15 pm
Posts: 221
Location: Northern Virginia
I've never noted an issue with the OGs. They seem to be capable of catapulting me over the bars even on 35mph downhills if I hit them hard enough (no, have not actually endo'd thankfully).

I think all commentary etc considered that my plan is to look out for a CDale Evo and tweak it where necessary. If I win the Lotto I'll just grab an Evo Ultimate and call it a day!

It appears to me that the build to go for (taking into account what I already have marked w an *) would be:

Evo frame (maybe fork as well but they are heavier than some options)
SRAM red shifters/ders
*OG brakes
*XXX Lite wheelset
*Token casssette
*various other parts such as spin stix, seat post
upgraded lighter cables if possible
possibly new bars/stem but need to tear mine down and reweigh to compare

Biggest current question mark is crankset. I see the Evo Ultimate has the CDale hollowtech. Seems crazy light. Anyone know if its any good? I see the SRAM red around a lot, and I need to reweigh my FSA one to see what it is.

Given frame size and reluctance to spend $10k, I presume I will be down near 13lbs or maybe a bit under.


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Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 6:26 pm 


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