Does anyone know how much weight can be saved by cutting the seat post? I'm interested in g/mm or g/cm. This could easily be determined by knowing the difference in weight between a 27.2 x 280 vs a 27.2 350 3t dorico team seatpost. Unfortunately, I can't seem to get weights online anywhere including the 3T website and weight weenies and I'm trying to determine if the risk of not being able to raise my saddle higher is worth the return. Thanks.

_________________
2011 Cervélo RS - SRAM Red

Take your seatpost apart.
Weigh the carbon shaft.
Measure the carbon shaft.

Measure the distance you plan on cutting off.
Calculate potential weight savings.

Decide.

_________________
Exp001

No point in carrying the extra weight... Chop it!!!

Then tell WW how much you saved!!

_________________
Follow me on twitter:- MrAliBongo

I cut 4" of a carbon seat post ( I cant remember the make ) but it weighed 35g

Barrie

Cut it off. Weigh it. Then you'll know how much you saved

_________________
r o y g b i v

the only way to know for sure is to cut it and weigh it after. Grams/cm may vary along the length - my Syntace P6 post had a thinner wall at the very bottom end compared to the rest of the post.

I saved 39 grams by cutting around 9 cm from my post.

Just make sure you leave enough length so that it goes far enough into the seat tube to end at or below the lower junction with the top tube. If you want to save the maximum amount of weight you can cut it diagonally so that it is longer at the front when inserted.

Leave a centimeter of leeway to allow for possible height adjustment.

Thanks for all of the good thoughts guys. I appreciate all of the responses. I'm also considering switching to the Doric since it doesn't seems as though I need a setback post (note that the saddle is all the way back for proper knee/spindle alignment):



So I'm also not terribly eagerto cut it without knowing all of the facts.



It's not that easy with a Dorico Team. The head weighs much more than the shaft. The only true way to accurately calculate g/cm would be to know the difference in weight between the 350 and the 280.

I know for certainty, as a result of this (http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=69718), that the 350 weighs 235.8 grams. Does anyone know the weight of the 280?

I'm guessing about 35-50 grams of savings but I'm kind of obsessed with calculating it for some reason… OCD??

_________________
2011 Cervélo RS - SRAM Red

Yes, it appears you need a zero setback post.....and possibly a bigger frame

_________________
2012 Fuji Altamira SE - 6.42kg

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=111416" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I can see how you'd possibly conclude that. But I have really long legs and a short torso. The fit is perfect. With a 61 my ass slides off the nose. I have 64cm of reach. Impossible to achieve with a 61cm frame.

_________________
2011 Cervélo RS - SRAM Red

Yeah, that's why I put the "no idea" icon.......either wrong frame or outlier body dimensions. Guess its the latter!! Good looking bike, btw!

_________________
2012 Fuji Altamira SE - 6.42kg

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=111416" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

No worries. I didn't take any offense. And thanks!

_________________
2011 Cervélo RS - SRAM Red

If you really wanted to go to the trouble you could use a displacement measurement.
Measure the water volume displaced by the whole thing with the clamp and metal bits removed.
Then measure the water volume displaced by the shaft alone for the length you propose to remove.
The ratio of volume to volume will be the same as weight to weight.

_________________
r o y g b i v

If someone saddle is tipped that far forward from being level, it almost always means they need lower their saddle a few centimeters and level it out. Or secondly... you're riding the wrong saddle for your body type.

Anyway... with your saddle up that high, I probably would suggest not cutting much off. You want it to go quite far into the frame, otherwise you risk a broken post or even frame.

And you say you need a set-back post... yet it appears in the photo that your saddle is slammed almost all the way FORWARD! You mean a set-back post... to ride in reverse?

Thanks for the tips guys. I'll have to try the water displacement idea.

Regarding set-back/no set-back I see that I chose my words rather poorly. What I meant is that I may want to switch from a set-back (Dorico) to a zero set-back (Doric) hence my desire to not cut right now.

Thanks again!

_________________
2011 Cervélo RS - SRAM Red