is your supersix the evo or regular one?

It's just the standard SuperSix, not the EVO. It's a warranty replacement for my older SystemSix that developed a crack in the carbon downtube. I'd like to avoid using the FSA/SRAM threaded BB30 adapters as those are more permanent and the chance of damaging the frame upon removal is higher.

Can I just machine ~1-2mm off the ends of the Wheels Mfg adapters? I was thinking of taking a 2x4, drilling a hole just large enough for the adapter to fit in snug, setting the height so that only the amount of the adapter that I want removed is above the wood and then using a belt sander to take them down. Does this sound reasonable? Is there a better solution?

Thanks!

I like your ingenuity but the belt sander is hardly a precision tool. Also since the wood is so much softer than the metal it will sand away easier than the metal and offer little use as a guide. I would only use this method as a last resort. if you do go this route put a layer of blue masking tape over the wood so you can tell when you first scuff it up. Go slow!!! I would also only use the belt sander for the rough removal and then go to a hard block with sandpaper to finish it off. you will have much more control and much less risk of going to far. Please post pictures and good luck!

Maybe there is a better way?

I thought that the WM adapters were Delrin not metal? In that case the sanding might just work. Worth a try anyway.

Yeah they are Delrin, probably still harder than the wood but hopefully easier to take down than metal. Here is a link for reference: http://wheelsmfg.com/bb-30-shims-sram.html

My thought is that since the adapter moves with the crank/axle over the bearings, the interface between the ends of the adapter and the cranks doesn't need to be perfectly precise, the precision needs to be in the fit over the axle itself. Obviously I don't want to make a mess of it, but I think the tolerance for error (not getting the ends filed down 100% perfectly square) is high enough that the method I'm proposing should work. Anyone disagree?

I'm currently running enduro bb30 adapters, similar to wheels manufacturing ones with my Quarq S975 sram cranks and there was no need for modifications.

ive never needed to take material off the wheelsmfg adapters for a SRAM quarq. the only way i can see that the system would bind is if someone crammed too many spindle spacers on the drive side in an attempt to take up extra space. there really ought to be a wavy washer or o-ring on the right side as the spacers sit in the bearings somewhat loose and the adapters are not sandwiched like they are with shimano cranks. i add an o-ring.

Problem solved:

Just thought I'd update everyone in case others run into this problem. As it turns out Wheels Mfg actually makes two different sizes of the BB30 adapter that work with SRAM, once I got the other size the crankset mounted up in 30 seconds.

was the other one actually for pf30? that's why i asked if your frame was an evo or not, the evo uses pf30 and there are slight differences in bearing placement between fsa's pf30 and sram's pf30..

My CAAD10-1 will be coming with an FSA SL-K BB30 53-39 crankset. Since I prefer a compact, I will be replacing it and am considering the options: a BB30 compact crankset (probably FSA) or a Shimano crankset with a Wheels Mfg. adapter. I would appreciate any thoughts on this choice...

If you care about weight and cost, I would go with a compact SRAM (either Red or Force) BB30 crank. Don't go with a Shimano + adapter. Just adds weight when it really isn't necessary. Stay with BB30 and stay away from FSA.

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"Let's plunge ourselves into the roar of time, the whirl of accident; may pain and pleasure, success and failure, shift as they will -- it's only action that can make a man."

Any reason to avoid the FSA?

I should have added that the rest of the stock build is DA and Ultegra. Will a SRAM crankset work well with Shimano components?

Why not? Sure the Shimano crank and BB will be marginally heavier, but the 7950 or 6750 is a bloody good crank that will work best with the rest of the groupset.

Yeah, worth it for the spot on shifting if you ask me......

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2012 Fuji Altamira SE - 6.42kg

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Because FSA is crap. Use at your own discretion. But I would never let my friends ride FSA. Get yourself a true crank.

If you want the best crank get a Hollowgram. If you can't get the SISL, the older SI will do. You should be able to find one for ~$300 on eBay. Not sure if this link will work, but here is one to completed listings: http://www.ebay.com/csc/i.html?_sacat=0 ... te=1&rt=nc




Because it adds unecessary weight. This is weight weenies right, or did I end up at bikeforums.net by accident? If you want to get the most out of your CAAD10 frame, give it what it deserves= BB30 crank. Especially a Hollowgram crankset.

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"Let's plunge ourselves into the roar of time, the whirl of accident; may pain and pleasure, success and failure, shift as they will -- it's only action that can make a man."