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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2012 5:11 am 
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So what tires, conti gp4000, maybe some sprinters? I will not ride vittoria.

I am working on the cables this weekend.

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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2012 11:06 am 
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Veloflex Extreme, or Continental Competition if you want a butyl tube.

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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2012 2:50 pm 
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I've actually liked the Zipp Tangente tubulars. Feel like a Vittoria, but more flat resistant. Not sure about the weight, but I prefer them to Sprinters.

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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2012 9:20 pm 
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jwilliams wrote:
So what tires, conti gp4000, maybe some sprinters? I will not ride vittoria.

I am working on the cables this weekend.

Why the dislike for Vittoria? Corsa SC's are lurverly!


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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2012 12:50 am 
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KWalker wrote:
I've actually liked the Zipp Tangente tubulars. Feel like a Vittoria, but more flat resistant. Not sure about the weight, but I prefer them to Sprinters.

That's because they are vittorias with different tread


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PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2012 3:39 pm 
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I have a spare set of conti sprinters and gp4000. But open to others. Had FMB silk 23's but had lots of flats.

I worked on the cables, but because all the housings are back behind the head tube and about an inch, it's hard to cut the cable with out a pinch or even shifting a gear at a track stand. I put it back, and ordered some power cordz grommets to see if the is the solution. Wish me luck.

I might have to run carbon housings to stop the kinks if all else fails.

Also the photo of the recommend cable run is of a bike with the housing on the out side of the head tube, see where mine are tucked back down and hidden. That's the real issue!

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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2012 7:57 am 
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You could try I-links/mini i-links, I think they would cope with the turn inwards and downwards that you can see on your frame. Make sure you get some shrink wrap protection on the outside of the ilinks though as they scratch the frame (I didnt bother and they go through paint easily, my frame is particularly expensive though so no worries).

I like the zero.7 more and more as I look at your pictures and see the Scarponi frame on the Giro.

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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 5:26 am 
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My ride found a new home on top of the weekend warrior.


Attachments:
gtr and zero.7.jpg
gtr and zero.7.jpg [ 89.84 KiB | Viewed 1765 times ]

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Wilier Zero.7 SR11 being built
2011 C59 Di2 AX SRT 24's, THM Calvica, Fibula
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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2012 3:17 pm 
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Anyone use challange or fortezza tires

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2010 RXR VIP @ Red RXR Sold
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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 6:14 am 
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I agree the excess cables makes it heavier..

owl wrote:
Lovely frame there is a simplicity to it. Sort out the cabling it is untidy. Always look at the cabling of munoz contador's mechanic keep short and loop one around the other to keep it tidy


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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 7:37 am 
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jwilliams wrote:
Anyone use challange or fortezza tires


Yes, I use challenge Tires. I like em! :thumbup:

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 6:31 am 
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Location: seattle wa
The lengths in this picture are correct. The two shift housings should be exactly the same length, cross and leave a nice ellipse shape within the head tube when viewed from the front...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikesbikes/6668682635/

...Although I prefer both brake cables run in front - looks cleaner and more traditional to me.

For the rear brake just rotate your bars as far to the drive side as they would ever need to go and then cut to length. Then you know it has just enough. Ferrules add a little bit of length too.

In my professional opinion a standard coiled brake housing MUST be taken to an angle grinder (or at least a file) to produce a perfectly flat surface to mate with the ferrule/ stop. This prevents the primary cause of cable "stretch" as well as decreases friction in the line. Every high quality bike deserves this treatment during buildup, however it is almost never undertaken. For truly precise install, an angle grinder/belt sander is necessary.

I have a special technique that produces a housing end almost as flat as the factory cut, and have found that this trick can yield huge gains in shift/brake performance with all of the major groups, as well as less need for adjustment since the housing is less likely to collapse within the ferrule over time. Obviously this does not apply to your shift housing as you are using segmented housing.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 7:58 am 
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Very nice! What bartape is that?


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 8:02 am 
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Lizard skins, the thick kind.
andyindo wrote:
Very nice! What bartape is that?



bike is done, all mods made, THM cranks on, and 3 sets of cables later, DONE.

Photos to come afer a wash. Also 800 miles on it and the TUFO 160s and not a flat yet, and the ride is quite nice. I just hate having to true the wheels as the Edge 1.25 (1st gen) are so light.

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2011 C59 Di2 AX SRT 24's, THM Calvica, Fibula
2010 RXR VIP @ Red RXR Sold
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 9:08 am 
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Posts: 34
Have u tried weighing it with RZRs on tufo 160? I'm waiting for my Zero.7 SR eps to come in next week so I can see how much it will weight with the RZR and zipp tangents 21.

By the way, what's the weight of the Thm cranks with chain rings. I was just wondering how close are the Vumaquads compared to THMs


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