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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 12:51 am 
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Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2011 12:43 am
Posts: 237
Hello All,

I managed to pick up a '99 Cdale CAAD3. It's super stiff and I love the bike, but there is corrosion where the bottle cage bolts go and a significant amount of paint scratches. So I was planning on taking on some changes to manage the aesthetics of the frame. I was planning on stripping all paint and getting it anodized to jet black. Following that, I plan on putting on decals and applying a layer of lacquer to protect the anodizing and stickers. I don't have particularly nice components for this bike, just some junk and take-offs. This bike will be used for training and touring when I don't want to be on my Cervelo (especially during my turbo training sessions).

Components:
Crank - FSA Gossamer 170mm arms
External BB Cups - FSA MegaExo
Pedals - Shimano 105 SPD
Shifters - SRAM Rival 2011
RD - SRAM Rival 2011
FD - SRAM Rival 2011
Stem/Bars - FSA Aluminum somethings (I really don't care as this is not my WW bike) with Origin8 1 threaded to 1 1/8 threadless adapter
Brakes - SRAM Rival 2011
Seatpost - Cannondale C2 Carbon 350mm
Fork - Slice Carbon (Came stock with frame)
Wheels - Fulcrum Racing 7
Cassette - SRAM Rival 12-25
Chain - SRAM Rival

1. Will there be any issues with anodizing then lacquering this piece of metal?
2. Will the anodizing change the feel/stiffness of the frame at all?
3. Are there any components I listed that you KNOW will not be compatible with this frame off the top of your head?
4. Does anybody know of a chemical brand in the US that will strip the paint? (I'm looking to do this because I don't want to use a media blaster)
5. What would be the best way to apply that lacquer?

I want to thank you ahead of time for any responses. Thank you.

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Cervélo S2 2012 Red
Great minds think alike... sadly, so do the mediocre ones.


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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 12:11 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2008 11:41 am
Posts: 201
Location: Bucks County PA USA
Components will all work assuming your fork is threadless - I have same bike and it's threaded steerer tube requiring quill stem, so check that out. Otherwise same dimensions as a contemporary bike. I've had one of these crack in the turbo (top tube/downtube/seatstay junction. Not sure whether that's common, just something to consider.


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Posted: Thu May 24, 2012 12:11 pm 


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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2012 7:37 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2011 12:43 am
Posts: 237
Did it crack all at once? Was it horizontal or vertical along the tube? This might make me reconsider anodizing this frame or putting it under any kinda of stress.

_________________
Cervélo S2 2012 Red
Great minds think alike... sadly, so do the mediocre ones.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 12:18 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2011 9:50 pm
Posts: 72
I just stripped a Cannondale Caad 4 with spray can aircraft stripper. Use rubber gloves and a wire brush to help it out. It's painted with Dupont Imron which is the hardest paint on earth. In fact it has to be sprayed with a hazmat suit. Your lacquer will not be as durable but lacquer is easily repairable. I have painted cars with both back when they used these paints.

I used a high pressure washer to remove the paint after the stripper was on a while. You will have to do it twice.

Aircraft stripper: Airplanes are painted with Imron still.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 2:39 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2008 11:41 am
Posts: 201
Location: Bucks County PA USA
Same bike, same crack, same place with turbo use - not a lot of trainer time, either.Maybe 10-15 sessions (45 min - 1 hour). Two anecdotes don't mean it will happen for you, but something to think about. Good news: my dealer replaced frame no hassle.


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