Sram 2012 Yaw? terrible shifting underload?
Moderator: robbosmans
Hey guys, just finished buidling up my C'Dale evo equipt with sram red 2011 and hollowgram compact crankset.
Decided to install a 2012 yaw FD, after reading alot of negative FD shifting reports.
I installed the Yaw derailleur by reading the instructions and following the sram video guidence.
First impressions of FD shifting were possitive seemes as good as the DA7800 Id used previously.
After covering 120miles(hilly) this weekend on the bike, I am now very disappointed with the front shifting, on several occasions when changing down from the 50 > 34 under load the chain seemed to get jammed up in the mech.... and the shifting from 34 > 50 when underload was also poor, really disappointed.
I spent today trying to tune the FD in to stop these problems but nothing seems to improve this?
I have re set up the deraileur twice now, but it seems fine until the drive train is under load? anyone else experienced simular problems or have any advice that might resolve this?
As im eager to get some miles in with the EVO, I have taken off the yaw mech and fitted a sram red steel FD > the shifting is transformed??
Decided to install a 2012 yaw FD, after reading alot of negative FD shifting reports.
I installed the Yaw derailleur by reading the instructions and following the sram video guidence.
First impressions of FD shifting were possitive seemes as good as the DA7800 Id used previously.
After covering 120miles(hilly) this weekend on the bike, I am now very disappointed with the front shifting, on several occasions when changing down from the 50 > 34 under load the chain seemed to get jammed up in the mech.... and the shifting from 34 > 50 when underload was also poor, really disappointed.
I spent today trying to tune the FD in to stop these problems but nothing seems to improve this?
I have re set up the deraileur twice now, but it seems fine until the drive train is under load? anyone else experienced simular problems or have any advice that might resolve this?
As im eager to get some miles in with the EVO, I have taken off the yaw mech and fitted a sram red steel FD > the shifting is transformed??
Caad9 BBQ Durace7800 build
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=82445#p721875
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=82445#p721875
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After experience the chain dragging and dropping when trying to go up to the big ring. I have found it needed a bit more cable tension than Shimano and also needed to set the FD as low as possible.. (I don't go with the line)
Shift with a decisive flick of the lever and it shouldn't drag or jam the chain. I imagine everything is a little worse on compact.
Oh and ease off the pedal a little when shifting..
Shift with a decisive flick of the lever and it shouldn't drag or jam the chain. I imagine everything is a little worse on compact.
Oh and ease off the pedal a little when shifting..
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i agree, ease off the gas slightly.
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This is a setup issue, IMO. I'm using a 50/34 SiSL crank with 2012 Yaw FD and it is excellent. ~1,000 miles on the combo with no problems. I do have the 2012 shifters as well though.
The key with Sram FDs, in my experience, seems to be the horizontal orientation (tail angle) of the FD cage. Make sure the cage is mounted down close to the rings with 1-2mm gap (as the previous poster mentioned) and tinker with the angle of the cage. Re-adjust your limits after each time you change the angle of the cage, they will be different. Let all the tension out of the cable and slowly tighten things up until the FD runs smoothly. You can give the Yaw FD a little more tension because there is no trim to deal with, but don't go crazy.
The chain getting caught coming down seems like the cage is too far outboard (too much tension, limit improperly set) or the angle of the FD cage is off. My bet is on the latter.
I can take some photos to show exactly how I've got mine setup if you think having a reference point might help.
The key with Sram FDs, in my experience, seems to be the horizontal orientation (tail angle) of the FD cage. Make sure the cage is mounted down close to the rings with 1-2mm gap (as the previous poster mentioned) and tinker with the angle of the cage. Re-adjust your limits after each time you change the angle of the cage, they will be different. Let all the tension out of the cable and slowly tighten things up until the FD runs smoothly. You can give the Yaw FD a little more tension because there is no trim to deal with, but don't go crazy.
The chain getting caught coming down seems like the cage is too far outboard (too much tension, limit improperly set) or the angle of the FD cage is off. My bet is on the latter.
I can take some photos to show exactly how I've got mine setup if you think having a reference point might help.
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i have not had any of the same issues you described, and am running a compact red crank on a cdale evo. i wouldn't think the rings would make that big of a difference, so your alignment must be off somewhere.
Hi Bill thanks for the detailed reply. A couple of reference photos would be great.
Its great that other people have the same combo running great... When my patience returns I will give the Yaw mech another go.
Thanks.
Its great that other people have the same combo running great... When my patience returns I will give the Yaw mech another go.
Thanks.
Caad9 BBQ Durace7800 build
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=82445#p721875
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=82445#p721875
Shifting is very good on mine. I'm using 2012 shifters but other than trim I don't think they're that much different.
I recommend following the directions to set it up. You can wind in the stop screw until the line lines up with the big ring to get it back to the factory setup position.
I recommend following the directions to set it up. You can wind in the stop screw until the line lines up with the big ring to get it back to the factory setup position.
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Sram does not recommend using the new Red front derailleur with old Red(or any level actually) shifters. The new Red front derailleur is not designed to have any trim which your old Red shifter has. It will, as you're maybe encountering, cause the front derailleur to hang up when going from big to small. Sram says running a new front derailleur with old shifters can create a situation where the front derailleur gets hung up and you can actually rip the derailleur right off the bike.
Also, stop riding like an idiot and learn to shift. You can't expect perfection while your trying to push 1000 watts through the bike. Who shifts from big to small under massive load? Someone in the totally wrong gear...
Also, stop riding like an idiot and learn to shift. You can't expect perfection while your trying to push 1000 watts through the bike. Who shifts from big to small under massive load? Someone in the totally wrong gear...
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2002SaecoReplica wrote: says running a new front derailleur with old shifters can create a situation where the front derailleur gets hung up and you can actually rip the derailleur right off the bike.
I'd like to know where you read/heard it from
Last edited by MikeMiranda on Wed May 23, 2012 4:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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MikeMiranda wrote:2002SaecoReplica wrote: says running a new front derailleur with old shifters can create a situation where the front derailleur gets hung up and you can actually rip the derailleur right off the bike.
I'd like to know where read it from
It came right out of the Sram rep's mouth this past Thursday when he was showing me, and my staff, his black gun case looking box full of new Red.
- Zipp rims will break if you look at them too hard
- R-Sys wheels will spontaneously explode
- The ZG crankset will never, ever exist
- Everyone needs Lightweights, even if they're fat and old
- Parts actually made of metal are SO 10 years ago
- R-Sys wheels will spontaneously explode
- The ZG crankset will never, ever exist
- Everyone needs Lightweights, even if they're fat and old
- Parts actually made of metal are SO 10 years ago
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i'm curious about exactly how that would happen (and not happen with the old style fd)....
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Also the new front derailleur is supposed to work best with the new Red crank set (actually the new red chain rings). Apparently SRAM made the new ring's spacing and ramp pins a little differently to help with shifting.
http://velonews.competitor.com/2012/03/news/it-works-we-test-sram-red-backwards-compatibility_209270
I'm not saying that the new Red FD won't work with the hollowgram crank set, but it may take more time to get dialed in (that and the 2012 Red shifters).
http://velonews.competitor.com/2012/03/news/it-works-we-test-sram-red-backwards-compatibility_209270
I'm not saying that the new Red FD won't work with the hollowgram crank set, but it may take more time to get dialed in (that and the 2012 Red shifters).
1st: The yaw fd will not work with 2011 and previous Red shifters.
Next: The yaw fd will work with 2011 and previous Red shifters.
Now?: Not only will the new yaw fd not work with 2011 and previous Red shifters, but if you try this it will actually rip the fd off of the frame.
Is this the... Truth?
Next: The yaw fd will work with 2011 and previous Red shifters.
Now?: Not only will the new yaw fd not work with 2011 and previous Red shifters, but if you try this it will actually rip the fd off of the frame.
Is this the... Truth?
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Go and have a cup of tea and a biscuit . Then start again and hope it will be alright. Bikes are really annoying
.Someone has the same set up and it works fine, someone else has the same set up and there bike falls to bits. I don't know , bikes a , what can you do ?
.Someone has the same set up and it works fine, someone else has the same set up and there bike falls to bits. I don't know , bikes a , what can you do ?