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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 2:10 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 04, 2011 4:48 am
Posts: 37
Hi All,

About to change over from FSA BB30 crank Cannondale SLSL crank on my BB30 CAAD9.
I was wondering if any "special" tools might required. Are there any "tricks" or gotchya's that I need to be aware of?

Much appreciate any advice.

Cheers
Vlad


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 3:49 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2009 2:35 am
Posts: 554
The install is pretty easy.

1. Put the bearing cover on the NDS.
2. Install the spindle from the NDS - you may need to use a rubber mallet to get it in. I have a plastic dead-blow hammer I use.
3. Install DS bearing shield, wavy washer and spacers. (I suggest you not start with more than three spacers)
4. Install DS arm. (I think torque on that is about 41nm, IIRC - I keep the install manual in my tool chest for reference)
5. Install NDS arm.

Here is the one caveat: If you install too many spacers on the DS, the crank will not spin freely.

If you have to remove the crank, yes, you need a special tool - the Cannondale KT013. It costs about $20, if I remember correctly and your Cannondale dealer can order it for you.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 5:50 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2007 4:45 pm
Posts: 82
for removing the old crank; remove one arm on the fsa (assuming the FSA has got the bb30 shaft molded/pressed onto one arm) use an air-can upside down, and spray this in the spindle. It cools down the spindle to a very low temp, a small blow with a rubber hammer should move the spindle and you should be able to pull it right out. pulling in a straight line is a must, the bearings can lock-up and damage the bearing-faces

For installing the SiSL, cool down the spindle and heat up the bearings with a hair-dryer. This works miracles and makes installing it very simple. Tolerances are quite tight on the spindle/bearings. (for installing, the last thing you really want to do is use a hammer to force it in place, especially with ceramic bearings. I'm currently working on a tool to pull the spindle in and out.

Best tool i've came across to remove/install bearings in the bottom bracket is from enduro.
http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id195.html
Not a big fan of the parktools removal tool, you shouldn't use a hammer to remove bearings.

The KT013 is a must have for taking off the arms, if you also want to change the spider, the KT012 tool is required.

Use grease on the spindle, it makes installing a tad easier and should prevent the bearings contact-area from rust with a creaking result.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2012 5:56 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2010 3:37 am
Posts: 247
Along with the instructions above:

I would put the spindle in the freezer for 30min, heat the bb with a hairdryer just before installing. The spindle will slide right through, no need for a mallet.

I use no spacers and the wavey washer on my caad9

Be sure the small washer is on the crank arm fixing bolt.

Bulkpijn beat me to it.

_________________
S-WORKS Venge 2012 - 7.3 kg
Allez E5 - 7.3kg
DengFu FM086 - 8.3kg
CAAD9 - 6.32kg


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2012 1:06 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 04, 2011 4:48 am
Posts: 37
Thanks heaps guys.
Will post some pics when done.

Cheers
Vlad


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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 1:30 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2011 10:33 pm
Posts: 79
Hi.

Installing a SL crankset into my EVO frameset.

I have brought the hollowgram EVO spider.... but looking at the Cannondale manual is there also a EVO specific lockring for the pressfit bearing? I was planning to use the standard SL version that came with the crank set?

_________________
Caad9 BBQ Durace7800 build
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=82445#p721875


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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 5:08 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 06, 2009 7:28 am
Posts: 480
Nope. Fail. You need to use both the Evo lockring and spider with the PF30 BB that is supplied with your frame (if you purchased a frame only)


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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 5:14 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 29, 2007 4:38 am
Posts: 346
Location: TN
According to the cannondale rep, it's really only an issue with compact cranksets.

I pulled a set of hollowgrams straight off a Supersix HiMod and put them right on an Evo with no changes. Just make sure to 'pick' the rubber dust seals off the bearing so you see the bare bearing in the frame.


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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 5:34 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2007 1:26 am
Posts: 551
Location: USA
The spiders are milled differently and the lockring is thinner. If you do not use the correct parts it won't work. I was down this road last fall and had to get the correct parts... even for the standard 53X39. Hope this helps.


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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 5:46 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 14, 2008 4:55 am
Posts: 581
I had both a hgram SRM and normal cranks and I had a problem with neither when pulling them from a hi mod and putting them on my EVO with the correct spacers.

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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 5:52 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2008 9:16 pm
Posts: 162
Location: Las Vegas, NV
I also did NOT have a problem on my evo using the supplied PF30 and standard hollowgram and standard lockring.


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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 6:22 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2011 10:33 pm
Posts: 79
I ordered a new locking for PF, I'm installing it with a compact evo spider, looking at the original lockring I think it would work but to be belt and braces I'm waiting for the new lock ring to arrive

Thanks for the advice, looks like the evo is going to be ready just in time for the rain to stop in the UK!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

_________________
Caad9 BBQ Durace7800 build
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=82445#p721875


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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 7:32 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2007 1:26 am
Posts: 551
Location: USA
I had spoke directly to a Cannondale engineer last fall and at the time they were doing a running change on the spiders. When set-up on a PF30 there wasn't clearance between the spider and the rounded portion of the cartridge where the bearing sits. I tried to install one last year on the Evo and you can get it on, but to much pre-load on the bearings. Once I had the newer version, so issues. If you look at the older spider and the new one, you can see where they had milled out an area that sits inside against the PF.


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PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2012 10:23 am 
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Joined: Sun May 10, 2009 3:31 pm
Posts: 445
Location: Russia, Moscow
Another option is to file some material off the right PF30 cup. The lip is pretty thick there, so you can safely remove like 0.5 mm. Just take some sandpaper, lay it on a flat surface, press the cup against sandpaper and rub for 5 minutes - job done.


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PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2012 7:19 pm 
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Location: Hilly, Hot, and Windy
difference in lock ring only. new one is milled off at the corners to the clear the housing. Do I need to snap pics?

Starnut

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Q-FACTOR IS A RED HERRING

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