BBright 24 mm adapter bearing changeout

[goodboyr]

Has anyone attempted this? The adapters (I think they are made by Rotor) that you get to convert a BBright to accept a standard shimano 24mm crank appear to have pretty standard steel bearings. If I ever need to change them, or go to ceramics, is there a way of removing the bearings without damaging the adapter or loosening its fit into the bbright shell ( and thus causing creaking etc.) To be specific, these are the "46-24" adapters.

http://www.excelsports.com/main.asp?page=8&description=BB+Right+Shimano+Adapter%2DBottom+Bracket&vendorCode=CERVELO&major=1&minor=6

And then, what size bearings do they take?

[Jere]

Hi
This needs no new bearings

http://wheelsmfg.com/products/bottom-br ... ranks.html

[thisisatest]

the wheelsmfg adapters would be the way to go if you didnt already have the rotor adapter/cups in your frame.
a tool that removes bearings like the enduro tool does will be best. puts no stress on the frame/cup junction. pulls bearing out against the cup.

ive had issues with the rotor adapters being too much of an interference fit, making the bearings turn seriously stiff before even mounting them. hopefully, removing the old ones and installing new ones will stretch the fit ever so slightly.

[goodboyr]

Thanks. I've got the enduro tool on order. I've also ordered enduro zero hybrid ceramic bearings to replace the ones in the shimano adapter. One thing I learned is that this adapter does not use the standard 6805 25x 37 x 7 bearings. It uses 24 x 37 x 7 bearings. The designation is 2437 size. Not sure why. I've also got the loctite 609 and the activator spray. Will report back when I've done this. And yes, the original bearings are very stiff. That's what's prompted me to give this a try.

[CerveloMikey]

I have had nothing but problems with my Rotor Shimano Adapter on my R3. I didn't like the stock bearings and swapped them out with my Enduro BB ceramic bearings. When the bearings are out they spin freely but once pressed into the adapter, there is drag like the bearings are bad. I even swapped the bearings from side to side and the non drive side is always rough.

[goodboyr]

Ok. All done. I also discovered that the original install of the adapters was not that great. The plastic tube in between the adapters was distorted and "kinked". In any case, I had a new set of adapters, so I had a new plastic tube. The bearings came out very easily with the Enduro tool. New enduro zero bearings in, with Loctite 609 all around for bearings and adapters. All good and the crank turns much easier now. Nice spin to it.

[thisisatest]

small note, they use 24/37x7 bearings because it gives them 1mm more room to put bigger balls in there. downside is you lose the plastic between the bearing and spindle, which is nice to take up tolerance and reduce the potential for creaks.

[goodboyr]

small note, they use 24/37x7 bearings because it gives them 1mm more room to put bigger balls in there. downside is you lose the plastic between the bearing and spindle, which is nice to take up tolerance and reduce the potential for creaks.

Are you sure about this increasing the potential for creaks? I've used the regular hollowtech 2 outboard bearing ceramic bb and this doesn't have the "top hat". Never had creaks etc. Seems to me a well greased shaft to inner race interface is better than a plastic top hat with multiple interface surfaces. In any case, that's the design of the adapter. The crank went in very smoothly with no slop.

[thisisatest]

increasing the potential doesnt mean it WILL creak. plastic interfaces dont creak (generally) while any movement allowed between two metal objects, once grease is no longer present, likely will. so a very tacky grease is good for that, yada yada, im sure you get what im saying.
it just takes more careful, accurate installation, thats all...

[jimminy]

Helly all,
hopefully I might draw on some of your experience with this. I have a BBRight to Hollowtech adapter (https://www.bike24.com/p234711.html) installed in a 2014 Cervelo P3. Kicking the pedal back to clip in this weekend, I noticed a lot of friction. After pulling the cranks, I noticed that the non-drive-side bearing has become very rough. Interestingly the drive side is smooth. I pulled off the dust caps to clean and re-grease the bearings, but they are still not smooth, and almost feel gritty.

My plan is to replace the bearing race on the non-drive side, by tapping out the bearing, leaving the cup in the frame, and pressing in a new bearing. I have ordered the Enduro ABEC-5 Angular contact: MRA 2437 LLB 24 x 37 x 7.

Has anyone any experiece tapping bearings out of a cup while the cup is still in the frame. Good/Bad idea? Any hint as to why the non-drive side is toast but the drive side is perfect? Perhaps exposure to the elements, or shoddy installation (I installed it...).

Advice much appreciated.

James

[goodboyr]

Yes. I have done this a couple of times. You need to use the right tool, (the park tool RT-1). Also, accept the fact that you may knock the entire adapter out, or just the bearings. It all depends on the clearances and technique of the original install. As well, no matter how careful you are, you will damage the bearing (which is no matter since you will be replacing it). As above, you can then remove the bearing with the bearing removal tool described earlier in this thread. Make sure surfaces are clean and "activated" using the loctite activator, and then use 609 bearing retaining compound. Note that the NDS bearing roughness is pretty typical with these. I had to replace the bearings on approx yearly intervals, and then the latest time totally gave up on the adapter, and instead installed PF30 cups with the wheels manufacturing insert adapters instead.

[reknop]

Has anyone attempted this? The adapters (I think they are made by Rotor) that you get to convert a BBright to accept a standard shimano 24mm crank appear to have pretty standard steel bearings. If I ever need to change them, or go to ceramics, is there a way of removing the bearings without damaging the adapter or loosening its fit into the bbright shell ( and thus causing creaking etc.) To be specific, these are the "46-24" adapters.

http://www.excelsports.com/main.asp?page=8&description=BB+Right+Shimano+Adapter%2DBottom+Bracket&vendorCode=CERVELO&major=1&minor=6

And then, what size bearings do they take?

Since the Enduro BRT-003 Tool isn't available in the Netherlands, I opted for the CEMA Bearing tool that uses the same concept. You simply drive out bearings and/or cups in a controlled manner. Not simply by hammering the bearings out-of your frame set.

Enduro Bearings: http://www.endurobearingsonline.com/collections/tools/products/bb86-and-bb90-removal-and-installation-tool
CEMA Bearing: http://www.cemabearing.com/bicycle/bicycle/professional-bearing-replacement-tool.php

P.S.
Minimize the adapters is one of the tips that James Huang BikeRadar offers in his article “I’ve had it with press-fit bottom brackets”.

[wheelsONfire]

You can use 30mm bearings/ BB with 30mm bearings and Shimano 24mm axle cranks if you buy these delrin adapters.
http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/bb ... pters.html

You can also use Rotor 4624 BB or the new UBB thread lock version. In latter case, you'd need the adapters above...