Has anyone attempted this? The adapters (I think they are made by Rotor) that you get to convert a BBright to accept a standard shimano 24mm crank appear to have pretty standard steel bearings. If I ever need to change them, or go to ceramics, is there a way of removing the bearings without damaging the adapter or loosening its fit into the bbright shell ( and thus causing creaking etc.) To be specific, these are the "46-24" adapters.

http://www.excelsports.com/main.asp?page=8&description=BB+Right+Shimano+Adapter%2DBottom+Bracket&vendorCode=CERVELO&major=1&minor=6

And then, what size bearings do they take?

Hi
This needs no new bearings

http://wheelsmfg.com/products/bottom-br ... ranks.html

the wheelsmfg adapters would be the way to go if you didnt already have the rotor adapter/cups in your frame.
a tool that removes bearings like the enduro tool does will be best. puts no stress on the frame/cup junction. pulls bearing out against the cup.

ive had issues with the rotor adapters being too much of an interference fit, making the bearings turn seriously stiff before even mounting them. hopefully, removing the old ones and installing new ones will stretch the fit ever so slightly.

Thanks. I've got the enduro tool on order. I've also ordered enduro zero hybrid ceramic bearings to replace the ones in the shimano adapter. One thing I learned is that this adapter does not use the standard 6805 25x 37 x 7 bearings. It uses 24 x 37 x 7 bearings. The designation is 2437 size. Not sure why. I've also got the loctite 609 and the activator spray. Will report back when I've done this. And yes, the original bearings are very stiff. That's what's prompted me to give this a try.

I have had nothing but problems with my Rotor Shimano Adapter on my R3. I didn't like the stock bearings and swapped them out with my Enduro BB ceramic bearings. When the bearings are out they spin freely but once pressed into the adapter, there is drag like the bearings are bad. I even swapped the bearings from side to side and the non drive side is always rough.

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R2.5 / R3 / S-Works 29er (20 lbs) / S-Works SL4 Di2 (14.7 lbs)

Ok. All done. I also discovered that the original install of the adapters was not that great. The plastic tube in between the adapters was distorted and "kinked". In any case, I had a new set of adapters, so I had a new plastic tube. The bearings came out very easily with the Enduro tool. New enduro zero bearings in, with Loctite 609 all around for bearings and adapters. All good and the crank turns much easier now. Nice spin to it.

small note, they use 24/37x7 bearings because it gives them 1mm more room to put bigger balls in there. downside is you lose the plastic between the bearing and spindle, which is nice to take up tolerance and reduce the potential for creaks.

Are you sure about this increasing the potential for creaks? I've used the regular hollowtech 2 outboard bearing ceramic bb and this doesn't have the "top hat". Never had creaks etc. Seems to me a well greased shaft to inner race interface is better than a plastic top hat with multiple interface surfaces. In any case, that's the design of the adapter. The crank went in very smoothly with no slop.

increasing the potential doesnt mean it WILL creak. plastic interfaces dont creak (generally) while any movement allowed between two metal objects, once grease is no longer present, likely will. so a very tacky grease is good for that, yada yada, im sure you get what im saying.
it just takes more careful, accurate installation, thats all...