Latest and greatest in stems?
Moderator: robbosmans
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I've been on a stem search over the past few days (actually, a full week).
I've tried every place I could (eBay, QBike, U.K. online bike shops, U.S. LBS's, etc...).
Finally picked something up, but I'll post it (w/weight) when it arrives at my home.
I want to make sure I got what I paid for. I sure wish I knew about this thread before.
It would've saved me a ton of research.
I've tried every place I could (eBay, QBike, U.K. online bike shops, U.S. LBS's, etc...).
Finally picked something up, but I'll post it (w/weight) when it arrives at my home.
I want to make sure I got what I paid for. I sure wish I knew about this thread before.
It would've saved me a ton of research.
Except most of his suggestions directly change the rider's geometry.
EDIT: I realize the statement is not entirely fair. He did raise some good points, and if you are able to incorporate this into an overall plan, you could increase stiffness with relatively minor change to the position as a whole.
EDIT: I realize the statement is not entirely fair. He did raise some good points, and if you are able to incorporate this into an overall plan, you could increase stiffness with relatively minor change to the position as a whole.
Privateer wrote:Thanks Personicus, that's the most intelligent contribution to this thread thus far.
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I accidentally discovered that you can remove the graphics from a 3T ARX Team stem by rubbing it with the common solvent MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone). All graphics and the red stripe pretty much wiped right off with little resistance. Fortunately the main black body color must be a different paint formulation, because that remained untouched.
So I now have an all-black 3T ARX Team stem, even though I wasn't planning on it. Once I wiped part off, I had to completely finish it off so it wouldn't look goofy. It is now just evil-shiny-black.
So I now have an all-black 3T ARX Team stem, even though I wasn't planning on it. Once I wiped part off, I had to completely finish it off so it wouldn't look goofy. It is now just evil-shiny-black.
Rick wrote:I accidentally discovered that you can remove the graphics from a 3T ARX Team stem by rubbing it with the common solvent MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone). All graphics and the red stripe pretty much wiped right off with little resistance. Fortunately the main black body color must be a different paint formulation, because that remained untouched.
So I now have an all-black 3T ARX Team stem, even though I wasn't planning on it. Once I wiped part off, I had to completely finish it off so it wouldn't look goofy. It is now just evil-shiny-black.
Is that something you get at the hardware store?
More powerful than acetone?
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"Goof off" works great ... and cheap
I do this to all my stems ... 3T, Ritchey, PRO, etc.
I do this to all my stems ... 3T, Ritchey, PRO, etc.
Anyone used and weighed this one: http://www.rose.nl/artikel/rose-stuurpen-osc/aid:488313
Claimed 100g at 100mm...
Claimed 100g at 100mm...
Actually, I have. Weights are spot on, and its stiff. 92kgs stiff!
I got a white one which weighs more than the black (they were out of stock of black)
It looks a lot like the syntace stem, dunno if its made by them? Ive managed to snap the stem & bars off the top of a carbon fork tube by breaking the carbon of the steerer, and cause a really great team pileup, without the stem even creaking.
I got a white one which weighs more than the black (they were out of stock of black)
It looks a lot like the syntace stem, dunno if its made by them? Ive managed to snap the stem & bars off the top of a carbon fork tube by breaking the carbon of the steerer, and cause a really great team pileup, without the stem even creaking.
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I looked on eBay for a 3T ARX LTD and found a seller in Singapore that has them for a buy now price of $65.90. Another has them for $99. Can these be real 3T for that price?
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i heard a while back that there were fakes of those stems around the interwebs...if it sounds too good to be true...
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Pretty much any descent aluminum setup, like Pro, Ritchey and the likes are going to be stiff enough.
If most Pro sprinters are riding a variety of these parts from different manufacturers, I'm assuming it is good enough for me/you.
The only reason Cav runs the stem he does is for the sales/marketing. Has anybody ever shown that stem to be the stiffest? I don't think so. But his name all over it and for people who want to be Cav on the weekends surely must think it is something special.
I just switched from a Shimano Pro Vibe 7S 110mm (on ebay for sale for a good price!) to a Ritchey WCS BB alloy 120mm stem. They are both very stiff, and they work out to be about the same reach due to the Shimano 10 degree setup compared to the Ritchey 6 degree.
The reason I switched was due to wanting a matching headset/handlebar/stem. Since my headset is a Ritchey/logoed that way, I wanted a matching stem/handlebars.
The setup is plenty stiff, and I consider myself a sprinter.
Definitely avoid any carbon bars. Those things are definitely flexy and you can feel it. I feel very little flex of an entire alloy cockpit, and then, only when in the drops on a sprint due to the distance/length and torque being placed, but it isn't sketchy feeling like my old full carbon handlebars, those things felt scary when sprinting they flexed so much. Regular riding on roads though, they did add comfort in comparison to alloy.
If most Pro sprinters are riding a variety of these parts from different manufacturers, I'm assuming it is good enough for me/you.
The only reason Cav runs the stem he does is for the sales/marketing. Has anybody ever shown that stem to be the stiffest? I don't think so. But his name all over it and for people who want to be Cav on the weekends surely must think it is something special.
I just switched from a Shimano Pro Vibe 7S 110mm (on ebay for sale for a good price!) to a Ritchey WCS BB alloy 120mm stem. They are both very stiff, and they work out to be about the same reach due to the Shimano 10 degree setup compared to the Ritchey 6 degree.
The reason I switched was due to wanting a matching headset/handlebar/stem. Since my headset is a Ritchey/logoed that way, I wanted a matching stem/handlebars.
The setup is plenty stiff, and I consider myself a sprinter.
Definitely avoid any carbon bars. Those things are definitely flexy and you can feel it. I feel very little flex of an entire alloy cockpit, and then, only when in the drops on a sprint due to the distance/length and torque being placed, but it isn't sketchy feeling like my old full carbon handlebars, those things felt scary when sprinting they flexed so much. Regular riding on roads though, they did add comfort in comparison to alloy.
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DYG wrote:Rick wrote:I accidentally discovered that you can remove the graphics from a 3T ARX Team stem by rubbing it with the common solvent MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone). All graphics and the red stripe pretty much wiped right off with little resistance. Fortunately the main black body color must be a different paint formulation, because that remained untouched.
So I now have an all-black 3T ARX Team stem, even though I wasn't planning on it. Once I wiped part off, I had to completely finish it off so it wouldn't look goofy. It is now just evil-shiny-black.
Is that something you get at the hardware store?
More powerful than acetone?
Yes, acetone and even isopropyl alcohol can often take the markings right off. For the stem mount marking on the bars, that can suck! I know this first hand, now I have to take a tape measure to try and center the bars if I ever move them. Which is rarely.