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PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 3:27 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 28, 2011 10:43 pm
Posts: 199
Ive been doing the math on:

2x9 = 26/32 front 12-27T Ultegra

This set up does offer a fair climbing gear of 26/27 fair top end of 32/12 and saves a lot of weight off the rear wheel 12-27T 223g which is -80g saving over my other 9 speed option a Sram PG980 11-34 303g. but it does keep the front shifting set up which is:

138g Deore Front Mech
167g Deore Shifter and all cable
45g 26T XT ring and 4 bolts

Total 350g

1x10 SLX = 32 front 11-36T SLX

This set up actually beats the Ultegra set up in every way, offering better climbing and higher top speed.

weights for this option are:

-350g remove Deore front shift system

Add

56g E.thirteen XCX
262g SLX 10sp rear mech
350g SLX 10sp 11-36T cassette

Total 612g

1x10 XT = 32 front 11-36T XT

weights for this option are:

-350g remove Deore front shift system

Add

56g E.thirteen XCX
226g XT 10sp rear mech
320g XT 10sp 11-36T cassette

Total 546g

But the best option for me looks to be; (at a reasonable cost as anyone can just go buy Sram XX, save weight and be skint!)

1x9 Deore/XT/Sram 32 front 11-34T Rear

weights for this option are:

-350g remove Deore front shift system

Add

56g E.thirteen XCX
249g XT 9sp rear mech (i had it already)
303g Sram PG980 9sp 11-34T cassette

Total 552g


please do tell me if im on the right track!?


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Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2012 3:27 pm 


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 3:11 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2012 4:23 pm
Posts: 423
Location: Midlands, United Kingdom
Your 1x10 weight has to delete the current rear mech weight or it comes out heavy.

Otherwise all looks good, personally I'd go 1x9 as it will be much cheaper and leave you tha cash to WW something else!

Simon

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Budget 26" HT build viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110956


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 7:55 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 28, 2011 10:43 pm
Posts: 199
Thanks TheRookie

I tested out the bike with current 2x9 set up. went well. But with this longer cage rear mech i did get the chain fall of twice when in the smaller gears... whats the basis on which you choose the length of rear mech? i could sell the XT one i have and get a shorter Xt one... short, medium?

i think changing from a 11-32t to a 11-34t will be enough with the 32 front. only bonus of going 10 speed is i could get a 11-36T and change the front to 34t...

Brakes im running are my next target i think. not sure of the weight, but Elixer CR 185mm front and Deore 160mm rear. Im thinking they might be 400g per end, and the hope Pro 160mm are about 300g so that would give me -200g

any more ideas very welcome!


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 7:07 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2012 4:23 pm
Posts: 423
Location: Midlands, United Kingdom
Cage length is set by the range of gears (max to min) you want to cover, it's all in the Shimano tech docs online, as a rule of thumb you use short for single ring MTB's, med for twin and long for triple, but if you have a double with wide gears you may need a long for example.

A Long cage instead of medium is no more likley to let the chain come off, something else caused that (after all it doesn't come off a triple when using the 2 smaller rings!)

I'm running double and bash and never use the granny ring, was toying with going 1x9 but instead have got a 36T middle ring coming to extend the top end gearing.

Simon

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Impoverished weight weenie wanna-be!
Budget 26" HT build viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110956


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 12:27 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2003 8:17 am
Posts: 5820
Location: Drenthe, Holland
Great bike! I've always been happy to see one. Orange made a super bike with it.
Runningjump, did you know that you don't need a new post for every single picture? You can post all img tagged lines in one post. Good luck!

Sent from my HTC.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 2:45 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 28, 2011 10:43 pm
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 3:01 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 28, 2011 10:43 pm
Posts: 199
I picked up a superstar chain guide 2nd hand to play with. on the orange 5 i couldnt get it lined up by just removing the single drive size bb spacer, so had to add it back in between the chain guide and the bb cup, so it lines up: frame, chain guide, single bb spacer, bb cup, XT cranks.

Even this does not line up though. So i have been playing about with washers added behind the white plastic guide and the red guide arm.

Still not happy though as the chain makes a right racket! so gave up. 2hrs spent.

will try rotating the chain guide clockwise on the bb and bring it ahead of the seatpost angle (seemed a sensible place to start) and see if this reduces clatter.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 11:08 am 
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 11:13 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 28, 2011 10:43 pm
Posts: 199
Ok so after looking at the problem sensibly it was obvious the chain device was not designed to have washers stuck here there and everywhere and it sill rubs!

So starting again i put the chain device on with bb with no other spacers. then rotated the red arm clockwise as much as the frame would allow (about 11.30/12pm if you get my drift).

then put everything back together. now the chain is actually passing through the middle of everything (near enough) both side to side and top to bottom of chain guide opening.

the chain still does rub a little in the easiest gear but im going to try it out on the trails and see whats what.

Id suggest anyone struggling with one of these is to try and rotate it to 12pm as a starting point. with it set at more of an 10.30/11pm angle it was terrible....


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 9:04 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2012 4:23 pm
Posts: 423
Location: Midlands, United Kingdom
Obvious really (sorry) the further away from the fixed end (the chainwheel) you have it, the more it moves up/down and side to side in the different gears, my daughters 1x9 runs an N-gear jump stop and bash instead, easier to tune all round!

Simon

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Impoverished weight weenie wanna-be!
Budget 26" HT build viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110956


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 3:52 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2012 3:16 pm
Posts: 201
Location: Utah, USA
looks like a fun project. That rear suspension design looks really beefy. How much does the frame weigh?

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20 gram 1x10 chain guide


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 9:56 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2012 4:23 pm
Posts: 423
Location: Midlands, United Kingdom
Most weights for the Orange5 record the frame (with air shock) at 6.6lbs (3Kg).

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Impoverished weight weenie wanna-be!
Budget 26" HT build viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110956


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2012 10:55 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 28, 2011 10:43 pm
Posts: 199
Little update for you.

The single ring set up is going really well, have converted some of my mates bikes the same now and they are loving it too. 32t seems ideal for AM trail centre stuff. Got a 34t on my hardtail. Works fine

The kcnc seat clamp. Rubbish on a bike like this. Post just kept slipping. Damaged the nut in the end tightening in up. Have gone back to orange one now.

Also fitted race face carbon riser bars which are 195g and have shaved 70g+ off.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 8:55 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 28, 2011 10:43 pm
Posts: 199
I've worn out the kenda nevegal s. they have been excellent and I could buy them again.

But thinking of something different, more trail centre than all rounder. They need to work tubeless on converted tubeless dt Swiss rims.

Ideas?


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Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 8:55 pm 


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 12:19 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 30, 2012 10:57 am
Posts: 38
Maxxis ardent! For tubeless setup, go with their LUST variety.

btw, NICE bike! I;ve always wanted to get my hands on a orange dual suss frame... but not avail where i am... sigh..


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