Tricks for mounting stubborn clinchers?
Moderator: robbosmans
Hello
Im trying to mount some Vittoria Open Corsas on a new Soul S2 wheelset and am going through hell! That last few inches is impossibly tight that its impossible for me to roll it by hand (Something Ive never had a problem with on cheaper tires). I got one tire fully seated doing some questionable things with a plastic tire lever, but I paid for that by pinching a tube.
Any help would be greatly appreciated and ultimately me back on my bike!
Im trying to mount some Vittoria Open Corsas on a new Soul S2 wheelset and am going through hell! That last few inches is impossibly tight that its impossible for me to roll it by hand (Something Ive never had a problem with on cheaper tires). I got one tire fully seated doing some questionable things with a plastic tire lever, but I paid for that by pinching a tube.
Any help would be greatly appreciated and ultimately me back on my bike!
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Pinch the already seated parts of the tyre with your hand, so it sits in the center of the rim bed. Often that gives the ever so slightly play needed for the final snap.
Bikes: Raw Ti, 650b flatbar CX
Make sure the first bead is running in the centre of the rim. Use a thin rim tape. I've found that using some talcum powder or chalk on the rim and inside the tyre helps to lubricate things. Plus there's a few youtube videos where they show how to mount really tight tyres.
Above are great tips. Another is: rub a small amount of soapy water over the last section of the rim you're having trouble mounting. Saliva a reasonable field alternative for flats on the road. Helps slide the last bit of bead over. Also, try rolling the last bit of bead with your palm instead of thumbs. Much stronger.
My only tip is never use continental tires. I find vittoria are the easiest to mount while most continental tires are the most difficult.
Also I have heard but nit tried yet. Put the tire in an old pillow case and put in the dryer for a few minutes to warm before the initial installation.
Many times after the tire is on the rim for a while it stretches a bit and becomes easier the next time.
Also I have heard but nit tried yet. Put the tire in an old pillow case and put in the dryer for a few minutes to warm before the initial installation.
Many times after the tire is on the rim for a while it stretches a bit and becomes easier the next time.
Finally got the bugger on. Thanks for the tips. I am however now doubting this wheel / tire combo for training...if I get a flat I dont want to be on the side of the road straining and swearing for 20 minutes! I guess thats something I didnt consider when I was looking at wheels to replace my stock Fulcrum 7's.
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the bead should stretch. My hutchison tubeless were a nightmare the first time i mounted them, but now they go on like any tire.
wassertreter wrote:Pinch the already seated parts of the tyre with your hand, so it sits in the center of the rim bed. Often that gives the ever so slightly play needed for the final snap.
this and start at the valve and work your way around the outside of the tirefrom both ends so the part your jacking with is 180 degrees from the valve. It also helps to put just enough air in the tube to give it shape (like 3 pumps with a floor pump)
For the life of me I don't know how people pinch tubes, but I hear about it all the stinking time...
That is backwards. Start away from valve so the last part you are jacking is at the valve. If you start at the valve the tire can't sit down in the groove at the valve and it will have to stretch further. If you start away from the valve, the entire tire can set in the center grove while you pry the last 2 inches on at the valve.
For certain parts stiffer is more important than lighter.
I just lever them on. But I make sure the inner tube is pushed up on to the rim first, inside the tire, so that the lever doesn't pinch the tube. Then, don't get too "greedy" with the levering. Just a smal section at a time until it is on, so you don't have to insert much length of lever (risking biting the tube).
I like Contis specifically because they are hard to put on. I have rolled "easy" clinchers off the rim (they were michelins).
They do get a lot easier after the first time.
I like Contis specifically because they are hard to put on. I have rolled "easy" clinchers off the rim (they were michelins).
They do get a lot easier after the first time.
I lever mine on too. I also pinch the beads in so they're sitting in the center of the rim. For the valve, push the valve into the tire (not all the way of course) so you can get the beads all the way to the center.
To avoid pinching the tube, use the tire iron to stuff it up into the tire before you use the iron to lever the bead over, and go 1-2cm at a time.
Getting the tire warm by leaving it in the sun can also help.
To avoid pinching the tube, use the tire iron to stuff it up into the tire before you use the iron to lever the bead over, and go 1-2cm at a time.
Getting the tire warm by leaving it in the sun can also help.
yourdaguy wrote:That is backwards. Start away from valve so the last part you are jacking is at the valve. If you start at the valve the tire can't sit down in the groove at the valve and it will have to stretch further. If you start away from the valve, the entire tire can set in the center grove while you pry the last 2 inches on at the valve.
I think mjduct had it correct. Start at the valve and finish opposite from the valve. Exception: on tubeless rims and tires, you want to finish at the valve.
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ccie1115 wrote:10-15 seconds in microwave...works wonder; except when you're out on the road
Or you have wire beads...
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