135 MM Road Spacing and Discs

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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Arky
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by Arky

ergott wrote:How many people with heal clearance issues stopped riding when bikes went from 126-130mm?


But when does this argument stop? When someone proposes 140mm, you can use the same argument. There is a threshold when this will present problems for road riders. I am saying the problems will develop at a narrower stance than mountain riders.

Are we sure about this or are we just a bunch of legendary lemmings? There is a sense of security in numbers. If a big company like Cannondale were going to do this alone, I would bet that they would do some ergonomic studies before we have gotten to this stage. I doubt this has happened because no single entity is responsible for this.

by Weenie


rruff
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by rruff

bikedoc wrote:It affectivly only puts one cog 2.5mm further out (smallest one) no need to move the chainrings out for that as you spend little time in the 11 anyway.


It puts them *all* farther out. If you don't want your chainrings centered with the cassette, that's fine. You'll lose one small cog with the small ring, but gain one large cog with the big ring.

bones
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by bones

Like I said, the people with imaginary heal clearance issues are making it up.

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Arky
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by Arky

Thanks Bones, my concerns and lies about existing ergonomic limits are just an evil plot to destroy your cross bike fetish and Ergott's new source of business!

Please excuse me while I work on my evil discbrakedestroyinator!

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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


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MichaelB
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by MichaelB

bones wrote:Like I said, the people with imaginary heal clearance issues are making it up.


And people that haven't ridden such a beast, let alone a road bike with discs !!! :smartass:

MileHighMark
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by MileHighMark

My decidedly non-WW commuter:

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Compact double (road) crank, 135mm spacing, disc brakes.
GRAVELBIKE.COM - ride everything

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ergott
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by ergott

Arky wrote: and Ergott's new source of business!


Hey, I resemble that remark!

Seriously, carbon seat stays could be designed to account for the extra 2.5mm and still give you the heal clearance needed with the right layup. It may not look pretty, but I'm a function ultimately over form. If I wasn't I wouldn't have taken to the newer Campagnolo lever over the previous shape. They don't look better, but they are much better in my hands.

I'm quite positive that there will be a significant period of time where caliper brake road bikes will coexist with disc equipped road bikes. There are advantages to both systems. For sure I'm in no hurry to get rid of my Spooky or Ottrott. They are insanely good bikes. Companies like Trek, Specialized and Giant (the big boys) will have both options for at least a few years until the market sorts things out. If disc equipped road bikes outsell caliper braked bikes by a huge margin, that's the way things will progress. There will always be smaller companies or custom builders to cater to any market out there with the demand.

bikedoc
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by bikedoc

rruff wrote:
bikedoc wrote:It affectivly only puts one cog 2.5mm further out (smallest one) no need to move the chainrings out for that as you spend little time in the 11 anyway.


It puts them *all* farther out. If you don't want your chainrings centered with the cassette, that's fine. You'll lose one small cog with the small ring, but gain one large cog with the big ring.

still it will be no worse than using the inner ring and the small half of the block which every one does and it works fine. Like ive said ive run 135spacing with road chainsets for yearsn problem free

djwalker
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by djwalker

Two comments:

1) I pedal quite toes out. I even wore the paint of the DS chainstay of my cross bike since my right foot is worse than my left. The problem was solved with longer spindles on my Speedplays. I don't have any problems on my MTB with 135mm spacing. So, I don't think that the spacing will really cause any unsolveable problems with heel clearance.

2) I don't think that the weight issue will matter to the pros since many (most) of their bikes need added weight to meet the UCI minimum.

Dave

P.S. I raced for the first time in 1979 so I clearly remember the change to 130mm spacing. I spread and realigned my steel Tommassini to be able to use Ultra 7 with 130mm spacing back in those days. 8 speed was still in the future.

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HammerTime2
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by HammerTime2

djwalker wrote:P.S. I raced for the first time in 1979 so I clearly remember the change to 130mm spacing. I spread and realigned my steel Tommassini to be able to use Ultra 7 with 130mm spacing back in those days. 8 speed was still in the future.
Your memory may be clear, but I believe is incorrect. Ultra 7 used 126 mm spacing (as did standard 6), whereas Ultra 6 and standard 5 used 120 mm spacing. 8 speed came along with 130 mm spacing.

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tommasini
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by tommasini

djwalker wrote:Two comments:

1) I pedal quite toes out. I even wore the paint of the DS chainstay of my cross bike since my right foot is worse than my left. The problem was solved with longer spindles on my Speedplays. I don't have any problems on my MTB with 135mm spacing. So, I don't think that the spacing will really cause any unsolveable problems with heel clearance.

2) I don't think that the weight issue will matter to the pros since many (most) of their bikes need added weight to meet the UCI minimum.

Dave

P.S. I raced for the first time in 1979 so I clearly remember the change to 130mm spacing. I spread and realigned my steel Tommassini to be able to use Ultra 7 with 130mm spacing back in those days. 8 speed was still in the future.


Roadies "get by" with mountain bikes.....which with a triple chainring have a very wide Q factor so we find a way to make things work. Who cares when you're bouncing around off rocks and roots - same goes with cross.......in both cases there is no optimal pedal motion going on because you are being tossed about all the time.....making do under less than optimal circumstances. Fast forward to road and TT bikes - we are able to maintain a simple and efficient motion - we need to..... That's where the little details are worthwhile and do pay off. On my road bikes my heels are approxamately 2 mm from each chain stay (fixed cleats baby!) - those chainstays already tuck in quite nicely. I consider myself fairly "neutral" in my setup (not toes in or toes out, hip width is fairly average too). :thumbup:

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