What's everyones thoughts on using deep rims for racing?
Moderators: robbosmans, Moderator Team
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This is regards to just racing.
When do you pull out your 50-60mm rims? When do you just use standard rims? Do you ever throw something really deep like an 808 on the rear?
I have a pair of zipp 404s, thinking about getting an 808. I also have a pair light custom rims (not deep). I can never decide when to use what for racing. I have tried to stay away from deep rims during higher winds, I assume they would hurt me more than help me. I do know standard rims over heavier deep rims when doing a lot of climbing. I always seem them using different variations during the Tour de France and can never figure out how they decide what to use....
When do you pull out your 50-60mm rims? When do you just use standard rims? Do you ever throw something really deep like an 808 on the rear?
I have a pair of zipp 404s, thinking about getting an 808. I also have a pair light custom rims (not deep). I can never decide when to use what for racing. I have tried to stay away from deep rims during higher winds, I assume they would hurt me more than help me. I do know standard rims over heavier deep rims when doing a lot of climbing. I always seem them using different variations during the Tour de France and can never figure out how they decide what to use....
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- Resident master of GIF
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flat course or crit, no wind. bust out the dragster combo. looks tight.
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808's in the crit no problem. About to use them tomorrow like a boss.
- Zipp rims will break if you look at them too hard
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- R-Sys wheels will spontaneously explode
- The ZG crankset will never, ever exist
- Everyone needs Lightweights, even if they're fat and old
- Parts actually made of metal are SO 10 years ago
Depends how technical a crit is to use a 808. Personal preference however cause some people can be picky and say 808's or some similar depth wheels dont accelerate to thier wants/needs.
Any aero advantage would be lost in braking for a very technical crit (eg hot dog) IMO
RR depends on how steep certain hills and mountain can be.
Any aero advantage would be lost in braking for a very technical crit (eg hot dog) IMO
RR depends on how steep certain hills and mountain can be.
seeing how most crits end in bunches i would go for the stiffest lightes wheels (responsive)
most really deep wheels would feel sluggist on the acceleration. i still think that for a road race the perfect wheel will be something like a zipp 303 or 404 for bigger guys. i think that 808 are meant for tting. for crits something built with enve or reynolds in tubular versions and hub that alows for a stiff wheel, or if you have the money lightweights.
most really deep wheels would feel sluggist on the acceleration. i still think that for a road race the perfect wheel will be something like a zipp 303 or 404 for bigger guys. i think that 808 are meant for tting. for crits something built with enve or reynolds in tubular versions and hub that alows for a stiff wheel, or if you have the money lightweights.
- Tinea Pedis
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If I was planning to get in the break and it wasn't mental winds I would be rocking the 808's or a wheel depth to that end.
Crit, probably not.
TT, disk! Otherwise 808.
Crit, probably not.
TT, disk! Otherwise 808.
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Wooosh woosh woosh woosh
all the reason i need to rock 808 depth wheels
all the reason i need to rock 808 depth wheels
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I found this very interesting.
http://www.spinlitecycling.com/ZippAeroEdgeFlyer.pdf
I was at a crit this weekend with practically no wind. In a lot of the five, four, and three races riders were using deep rims. When the pro 1/2/3 race started I noticed only about 5% of the racing were using deep rims. I guess this very variable.
Besides the extra weight, is is just harder to accelarate with deeper rims?
http://www.spinlitecycling.com/ZippAeroEdgeFlyer.pdf
I was at a crit this weekend with practically no wind. In a lot of the five, four, and three races riders were using deep rims. When the pro 1/2/3 race started I noticed only about 5% of the racing were using deep rims. I guess this very variable.
Besides the extra weight, is is just harder to accelarate with deeper rims?
Depends on how fast you are really. Are you a Cat4? Then no carbon wheels for you. If you're a 2 then 808's are a great choice for anything not mountainous. Fact that you're asking leads me to believe you should stick with nothing too exotic or deep. Not trying to be a jerk.
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I'm a 4 that just got the point to upgrade to a 3.
Why do you make your last statement? How else am I going to figure out whether there is a scientific reason or just personal preference if I don't ask?
Why do you make your last statement? How else am I going to figure out whether there is a scientific reason or just personal preference if I don't ask?
- btompkins0112
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That's was a stupid, pointless statement. Why does what Cat you are in make a difference? That's right, it doesn't......you might not have been trying to be a jerk, but to some ppl it just comes naturally.
I would roll with whatever you want to roll with. As long as you can afford to replace whatever you choose to ride, I'd say go for the big dogs. I'm a lowly Cat 5, but I ride 50mm carbon on race day and I don't feel bad about it.
I would roll with whatever you want to roll with. As long as you can afford to replace whatever you choose to ride, I'd say go for the big dogs. I'm a lowly Cat 5, but I ride 50mm carbon on race day and I don't feel bad about it.
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I don't think that your Cat # has anything to do with what equipment you can utilize or "need" for that matter.
There are guys that I ride with that are Cat 3's who get cleaned by other guys who aren't racers, if those guys ever got a card they would be Cat 5's.
I asked them one time why they didn't race, they said "I'm a bike Rider, not a Racer" thats from a guy who does 300+ Miles a week year round...
Basically if you can afford to replace some deep dish carbons made by XXX company, buy them and race the hell out of them, if you can't, then maybe some decent alloy's for 1/3 the cost are a better solution for you.
If I could afford it I would ride Zipp 303 tubulars all over the place and have a team car behind me with another set in case I flatted or whatever. The sad truth is I'm running on some second hand Easton EA90 SL's (not even the good SLX's) that I got for $350 bucks. But they work, and If I trash them, I'll probably upgrade to some Boyds or other Value/Performance oriented clincher.
There are guys that I ride with that are Cat 3's who get cleaned by other guys who aren't racers, if those guys ever got a card they would be Cat 5's.
I asked them one time why they didn't race, they said "I'm a bike Rider, not a Racer" thats from a guy who does 300+ Miles a week year round...
Basically if you can afford to replace some deep dish carbons made by XXX company, buy them and race the hell out of them, if you can't, then maybe some decent alloy's for 1/3 the cost are a better solution for you.
If I could afford it I would ride Zipp 303 tubulars all over the place and have a team car behind me with another set in case I flatted or whatever. The sad truth is I'm running on some second hand Easton EA90 SL's (not even the good SLX's) that I got for $350 bucks. But they work, and If I trash them, I'll probably upgrade to some Boyds or other Value/Performance oriented clincher.
I am going to be doing my 1st crit soon and am now concerned based on the several comments in this thread about wheels getting trashed. I have one set of wheels (50MM Carbon) and can not afford to replace them if something bad does happen what ever that might be. I am currently unemployed and this would put an end to my ridding if that did happen. I don't really know what to expect from racing so how likely is it that I am going to have my bike or wheels trashed doing this?
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i have only 66mm reynolds...so i ride them everywhere:)