Thanks bones. Just one more time for effect:



I did the Google searches, I took a totally informed, eyes wide open decision and went for Press Fit 30. Greater weld area for a stiffer BB interface with the down tube. Actually I read as many posts saying 'I use it with no problem' as there were people who had a problem, and certainly fewer Press Fit 30 complaints than BB30 complaints. Perhaps that is because it is newer tech, so time is a factor, or perhaps the fewer interfacing parts mean that it is ultimately a more refined system. I'll let you know when I have some experience on the bike that I will ride, that I paid for, and that I made a decision as a grown adult based on all of the facts in front of me to spec with a Press Fit 30 bb.

I have as they say paid my money and made my choice. If you see a post from me on here in a few weeks complaining about creaking, you are welcome to post 'I told you so'. In the meantime, I am prepared to trust the equal if not greater number of people who have benefitted from the larger BB with no associated problems.

If only there was a way to convert a BB30 frame to a PF30 frame.

_________________
Exp001

Wonder how difficult a task it would be to have BB30 frames that have an alloy insert in the bottom bracket shell machined an additional ~1mm in order to accept a PressFit30 bottom bracket?

_________________
Michael - The Anaerobic Threshold is neither...

I understand that BB30 is 42mm, and Press Fit 30 is 46 mm diameter. 4mm is quite a lot of material to machine away I guess.

When Cannondale released the BB30 standard to the industry, the spec sheet was made available with its own site. All I could find for PF30 was this.

WIkipedia has a nice semi-useful table of specs for the various BBs... so yes, it's close to 4mm

_________________
Exp001

Usually some Loctite will fix the creak.. Unfortunately most LBS do not know of this fix. Have you tried it?

solarider, if you was just about asking questions, than you could have skipped your comment about a clue (which looked kind of smartass to me), especially since it was clearly said they are two different things in the previous post.
Anyway, glad you did the research and are on top of the issue now. Peace.

Actually, Loctite works in a very small number of cases. However, usually when you get the BB30 / PF30 creak you are literally up sheet creak. The vast majority of BB30 / PF30 creaks are not fixed with anything - loctite, new bearings, etc..

If you get a frame with BB30 / PF30, just hope and pray that your frame never creaks.

I have one pair of Hollowgram SiSl, no creaks, and one pair of Hollowgram Si, no creaks there either.

The cheap, crap FSA's that came out before the Si's went on did creak, however.

Solarider- I've not ridden the Campag cranks so cannot make a comparison, but the Hollowgrams are great cranks, and the interchangeable spider aspect is very handy- I have a 130 bcd SRM spider with 53/39, a 130 spider with 53/39 (for when the SRM is getting serviced) and a 110 BCD 50/34 spider.

You are welcome to have a test ride if you'd like.

Cheers Dammit. Might take you up on that. Take it yours are direct BB30 fit rather than Press fit 30 though?

Yep, both standard BB30, one a Cannondale the other a Boardman.

In fairness sola, you were the one who replied with a less than courteous reply first. sly did just point out he was having trouble understanding your post.

Please, keep it civil.

_________________
Baum Ristretto, Baum Mondrian Corretto & the '89 Merckx! | "If you could eat it in one sitting, hold your line." | twitter.com/Tinea_Pedis

I had creaking problems with my HSC PF30 Ceramic BB, couldn't stand the noise. Saw in LBS Token PF30 BB, decided to try one. The creaking disappeared. However, the Token cups are made of alu, which is heavier, not the usual delrin/plastic cups. I'm sure its safe on my Ti frame, but I don't know with carbon shells. The 27g gain trade off is well worth it, bike is silent now.

Hi Solarider. I have just gone through the process myself. I know its sort of covered here but lack of creak is not the reason to go for one over the other. I had creaking with the Ultra Torque cup converters on my BB30 BMC Team Machine when I ran a SR crankset on it. I managed to sort the creak out resintalliung with anti seize but still decided to give the Hollowgram a go. My rationale was weight, Q factor, stiffness, changeable spider size and on the black Team Machine the Hollowgrams look great. If money and aesthetics are not a factor and its pure perfromance get the Hollowgram (creaking being as likely with both).
Personally with a titanium frame there is no question i would go for the Super Record crankset (becuase the very minor performance gains would be offset by a better looking package IMO). Sounds a wonderful bike you're building.

so, sticking to the topic at hand, you could go either way with the cranks- hollowgram or campy. if it's hollowgram, consider that cannondale makes a 135mm spider. note, however, that getting 2011 (most current) chainrings on there is a bit of a pain as theyre designed for a hidden 5th arm, they use special chainring bolts that screw directly into the inner ring, yada yada. it's not impossible to overcome, just complicated... if youre going compact, forget all that i said.
if you go with campy cranks, as other people have mentioned, the os-fit 46mm cups are problematic. to keep the right cup from walking out, everything must be thoroughly prepped, and loctite 603 would be a good choice (stronger than the often-suggested 609). a new alternative that will be available soon is from Wheels Manufacturing. they are working on a pf30-to-campy delrin adapter. info says it uses the campy bearings already attached to the crank, but no pics are available yet. maybe give them a call? historically, wheels mfg products are well thought out and creak-resistant.

good luck
greg

edit: i went to wheelsmfg.com. looks like, in the end, there will be TWO bearings per side-one on the spindle, one in the frame. so one set is redundant. i dont know how i feel about that...