Red vs Rotor - bb30 with adapter 0r 24mm?

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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tinozee
Posts: 699
Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2011 7:53 am

by tinozee

Hi,

I'm looking at a new crank (just want a diff size). Bike is Tarmac SL3 with threaded bb. I currently use K-force light which I like, but it is my second pair and I want to try either Rotor or Red (2011 red). The rest of the bike is all Red group and Ritchey wcs cockpit and the Frame is white. I like the Rotor because it's all black, but the Red looks okay as well. I'll use Q-rings on either one. I know about the fit issues for Q-rings on Red bb30.

My questions -

1. Which crank is stiffer?
2. Should I go 30mm spindle w/ adapter (BSA 30) or 24mm and screw in cups?
3. Any other ideas? Is the EE crank out yet?

Thanks all!

by Weenie


jdp211
Posts: 629
Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2010 4:26 am

by jdp211

If your tarmac has a threaded bottom bracket you don't have the option of a BB30 crank. That being said, Red and Rotor are both available in 24mm as well. I'd go with the Red over Rotor out of those options, but there's definitely others out there, depending on budget.

Zigmeister
Posts: 921
Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2011 8:09 pm

by Zigmeister

As stated, you can only use the Truvativ GXP BB for SRAM Red on the BSA frame. Rotor has their version with adapters that can go either way. Basically it is a BSA with adapters to work with larger 30mm options like BB30. That might be an option if you plan to change to a BB30/BB86 frame later on, you can still use your same crank with an adapter with Rotor cranks, plus you know your QRings will fit right on with no dremel required.

The Red is a pretty darn stiff crank. Only Shimano and maybe one/two others are stiffer. Rotor isn't as stiff as Red.

But for most of us, it is likely stiff enough since even pro riders use these cranks, some being good sprinters. I want to say Farrar might still be using Rotor as part of the Garmin team?

I run QRings on my SRAM Red cranks. You just need to dremel about 3-4 holes out of the way to clear the crank. Only takes like 10 minutes being careful, but still a hassle and plug/play would be nice!

tinozee
Posts: 699
Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2011 7:53 am

by tinozee

Thanks guys. Yes I am aware of those issues. I only meant the BSA30 Rotor adapter, I was not clear.

Would that rotor+ with the BSA30 adapter be stiffer than using the regular rotor 24mm?

Also, I thought that you don't have to dremel the big Q-ring on the non bb30 red cranks.

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Getter
Posts: 877
Joined: Sat Nov 14, 2009 6:30 am
Location: So Cal

by Getter

I switched from Red to Rotor...I could not tell the difference.

The OCP 3 ring is made specifically for the Red crank. Its set permanently at the "three" position.

buikpijn
Posts: 82
Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2007 4:45 pm

by buikpijn

@getter; BB30 or standard?

on my 29er i'm impressed with this 3d+ with the bsa30 BB It's very stiff,

it's not the lightest setup though, and you need to get over the huge laser-edged logo's. (hey, i paid for it, i don't want to advertise them)

But other than that, it's a marvel of engineering;
-integrated removal tool (uses an ordinary cassette tool to remove)
-integrated bearing pre-load nut. (works like a charm over the FSA/Cannondale wavy washers)

I was pleasantly surprised with these features.

another downside is the relative high Q-factor, and the wide stance of the BB in relation to the pedals. (some guys rub their foot against the cranks all the time, with these it will be even worse)

CerveloBert
Posts: 284
Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2011 12:43 am
Location: Los Angeles, CA

by CerveloBert

I recently slapped on my Rotor 3d+ with the BSA30 adapter from Rotor.

I like the Rotor 3d+ crank better than the SRAM Red, primarily because it's branded with the Cervelo test team logo and it goes well with my S2 and Ultegra pedals. In regard to stiffness - I cannot tell a difference.

tinozee
Posts: 699
Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2011 7:53 am

by tinozee

buikpijn wrote:But other than that, it's a marvel of engineering;
-integrated removal tool (uses an ordinary cassette tool to remove)
-integrated bearing pre-load nut. (works like a charm over the FSA/Cannondale wavy washers)


I really like the preload nut and the way this crank connects. One of my sets of K-Force came loose with the wavy washer setup. And it was torqued to spec. It caused weird force on the spindle that loosened it from the DS arm. FSA sent out a quick replacement though with rings, BB, whole box.

So hmm, red or rotor.

Thanks for all the info guys.

eric
Posts: 2196
Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
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by eric

GXP cranks don't require any preload adjustment. The NDS bearing locates the crank and it floats in the DS bearing. It's simple and there's no way to get the preload adjustment wrong.

tinozee
Posts: 699
Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2011 7:53 am

by tinozee

eric wrote:GXP cranks don't require any preload adjustment. The NDS bearing locates the crank and it floats in the DS bearing. It's simple and there's no way to get the preload adjustment wrong.


Good to know, ty. I have an older pair of force and they always felt solid and spun well.

And no creaks, I forgot to say I am a anti-sound nazi. Do the rotors in the bsa30 creak at all?

by Weenie


CerveloBert
Posts: 284
Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2011 12:43 am
Location: Los Angeles, CA

by CerveloBert

I have noticed a VERY small creak - I can only hear it when I'm cranking and it's totally quiet outside, and my hub isn't going on a freewheel. I re-torqued the BSA30 and now I cannot notice it. I'm hoping it's going to stay like that.

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