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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 6:52 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 4:20 am
Posts: 84
Location: nebraska
AdvanceSpark how is your bike coming along?


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Posted: Tue Sep 27, 2011 6:52 pm 


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 2:10 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 20, 2010 1:30 pm
Posts: 51
Location: Istanbul Turkey
Cancelled a lot of details and options like internal rear derailleur cable, internal wiring for reat light and stem switch for the lights and GPS charger due to the high labor cost. Chris ordered the parts, I think he'll start to build it soon. We already missed the original date due to the research for my extras. Will let you know as the progress starts. He's putting his work on Flickr, so I'll add a link as well.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 28, 2011 5:29 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2007 1:57 pm
Posts: 7917
Location: San Francisco, CA
I really like this thread, although since key portions of my commute were repaved my interesting this sort of bikes diminished. I still like the idea of having carrying capacity, though. Keep us updated!

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk

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Fuji SL/1


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 8:20 am 
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Joined: Thu May 20, 2010 1:30 pm
Posts: 51
Location: Istanbul Turkey
Here are some photos. The lugs will be cut to be bi-laminated to the headtube later on. I'm still not sure if I should go retro with the paint or not. This is the one in my mind at the moment. There's plenty of time to consider that.

Image

Image

Image

Image


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 1:42 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2007 4:20 am
Posts: 84
Location: nebraska
Nice, I like the initial luge shape a lot, please keep posting updates. Did you end up going with the Paul Racer brakes? No matter what is said they are so much better than Mafacs.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2011 6:04 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 20, 2010 1:30 pm
Posts: 51
Location: Istanbul Turkey
I really don't like how Paul Racers look, an ugly design nonetheless, but I think they are really good brakes. Being a little too wide, I thought using Pari-Motos with 46-48mm fenders would make them look even larger, so I opted for Hetres with 52mm fenders instead.

I really like the lug shape, and it will hopefully be even better when they are bi-laminated with the headtube.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 2:47 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 07, 2011 5:46 am
Posts: 225
AdvanceSpark wrote:
I really don't like how Paul Racers look, an ugly design nonetheless, but I think they are really good brakes. Being a little too wide, I thought using Pari-Motos with 46-48mm fenders would make them look even larger, so I opted for Hetres with 52mm fenders instead.

I really like the lug shape, and it will hopefully be even better when they are bi-laminated with the headtube.


Why not just go with Mafac Raids? Much better looking brake, same function.

BTW the Pari Motos are much "faster" tires than the Hetres. Plus they are significantly and substantially lighter. They are, however, a bit more delicate.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 2:50 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 07, 2011 5:46 am
Posts: 225
I assume this one is yours?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bishopbike ... 389851979/

...the bike is looking nice so far! If I ever get another custom bike, Chris Bishop is at the very top of my list.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 6:00 am 
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Joined: Thu May 20, 2010 1:30 pm
Posts: 51
Location: Istanbul Turkey
Yes, that's my bike in progress! It will be a modernized French bike concept.

The stem is a threadless Philippe modernization with Herse style quick release. Headtube will be bilaminated like Alex Singer with a contemporary twist. Although I changed my mind a lot, he's keeping his cool and doing a great job.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 4:35 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 08, 2006 9:14 am
Posts: 79
blasdelf wrote:
You can stip off the anodization layer with lye, also known as "caustic soda". You can get it in aerosol spray cans as oven cleaner. It's really nasty stuff, you need gloves and a facemask as it will burn your skin. After that you'd polish them up with a buffing wheel on a drill. I'm going to practice on some scuffed-up cranks before I try it on rims.


Do you know anybody who has done this -- de-anodized and polished black rims? I wonder how hard it is to do, and to keep the silver rims looking good afterwards.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 5:29 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 07, 2011 5:46 am
Posts: 225
I have stripped clear anodization off of rims and polished. Looks great, no issues. Black would probably be even easier to remove because it would be easy to see where the anodization hasn't been fully stripped.

Buy a pound of sodium hydroxide (you can get at a chemical supply store online), find a kiddy swimming pool, and mix with as little water as you can get away with. Drop the rims in, check every few minutes by rubbing the rims. When most of the anodization is off, scrub with a green scrubbing pad (I forget the brand) thoroughly. Your rims will look very dull. Then polish away, preferably with polishing compounds on a proper buffing wheel. You can get polishing compounds from Caswell; if you use their stuff start with the brown.

You can also do it with heavy-duty Easy Off (basically just sodium hydroxide in a spray-on foam), but that works best for small parts, might be tough to do a whole rim that way, although I'm sure it is possible with patience.

It's a lot of work but will come out very nice. I'm having anodization professionally removed form a set of Stan's 650B rims. Although I like poiishing its not an experience I care to repeat.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 9:23 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 08, 2006 9:14 am
Posts: 79
xrs2 wrote:
I have stripped clear anodization off of rims and polished. Looks great, no issues. Black would probably be even easier to remove because it would be easy to see where the anodization hasn't been fully stripped.

Buy a pound of sodium hydroxide (you can get at a chemical supply store online), find a kiddy swimming pool, and mix with as little water as you can get away with. Drop the rims in, check every few minutes by rubbing the rims. When most of the anodization is off, scrub with a green scrubbing pad (I forget the brand) thoroughly. Your rims will look very dull. Then polish away, preferably with polishing compounds on a proper buffing wheel. You can get polishing compounds from Caswell; if you use their stuff start with the brown.

You can also do it with heavy-duty Easy Off (basically just sodium hydroxide in a spray-on foam), but that works best for small parts, might be tough to do a whole rim that way, although I'm sure it is possible with patience.

It's a lot of work but will come out very nice. I'm having anodization professionally removed form a set of Stan's 650B rims. Although I like poiishing its not an experience I care to repeat.


That is what I want to do, too. Transform a set of Stan's 650B rims into silver beauties. Perhaps paying a professional is the way to go. I would not want my kiddies to jump into a kiddie pool full of NaOH. I wonder how the 650B Velocity A23 (which apparently will be available in 2012, with a silver option) will compare to Stan's ZTR 355 in weight and durability?


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2011 6:50 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 08, 2006 9:14 am
Posts: 79
Just a quick followup...
I found a shop in Fresno, CA -- Project 321 -- that will de-anodize and polish Stan's rims for a reasonable fee. I have ordered a few.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2012 2:15 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 07, 2011 5:46 am
Posts: 225
Progress report please

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Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2012 2:15 am 


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 20, 2012 3:55 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 08, 2006 9:14 am
Posts: 79
Yes, please post some photos when it is back from the painter and built up. Have you finalized your parts list?

I enjoyed viewing the photos of the frameset in progress:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bishopbike ... 669857027/

Chris Bishop has some serious chops. After viewing the photos one can appreciate how much extra work goes into making a custom randonneuring bike with integrated racks, fenders, lighting, and other details compared to a standard racing bike.


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