HOT: Active* forum members generally gain 5% discount at starbike.com store!
Weight Weenies
* FAQ    * Search    * Trending Topics
* Login   * Register
HOME Listings Articles FAQ Contact About




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 36 posts ] 
Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 6:14 pm 
Offline
in the industry

Joined: Tue Aug 30, 2011 7:27 pm
Posts: 36
sungod wrote:
PowerCordz wrote:
Sungod,

We're happy the Cordz aren't causing you any issues. Nearly all Power Cordz users report the cordz working just like they were suppose to, with no fraying and no wear. However, since we don't control the manufacturing of the components in which Power Cordz run, sometimes those components can cause Power Cordz to fray (unpolished surfaces, for example).

Ok, that said, since you had a successful installation, would you want to take some photos of your installation procedure? It might help some people here on the forum. If they're pretty good, we might use them on our site and give you something in return. Your choice, just let me know.

-Matt


i'm happy to take some pics next time i have the tape/hoods off and do some words, no need for anything to me, but if you'd like to make a donation to a charity that'd be cool, i'll pm you at the time


Great, we're looking forward to it.


Top
 Profile  
 
Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 6:14 pm 


Top
  
 
PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 6:17 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 3:44 am
Posts: 1678
Location: Canada
sungod wrote:
PowerCordz wrote:
Sungod,

We're happy the Cordz aren't causing you any issues. Nearly all Power Cordz users report the cordz working just like they were suppose to, with no fraying and no wear. However, since we don't control the manufacturing of the components in which Power Cordz run, sometimes those components can cause Power Cordz to fray (unpolished surfaces, for example).

Ok, that said, since you had a successful installation, would you want to take some photos of your installation procedure? It might help some people here on the forum. If they're pretty good, we might use them on our site and give you something in return. Your choice, just let me know.

-Matt


i'm happy to take some pics next time i have the tape/hoods off and do some words, no need for anything to me, but if you'd like to make a donation to a charity that'd be cool, i'll pm you at the time


I'll be following this too. My Ilinks are waiting in the closet for installation, and I was looking to try the Powercordz option on my Red setup...

Louis :)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Mon Oct 31, 2011 10:27 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2010 9:37 pm
Posts: 548
Location: it's raining, it must be uk
as promised, how i install powercordz (with nokon) on sram red, complete with uppercase letters which i normally eschew on the interweb


Before starting, it's essential that the bike is held in a stable position, at some points a lot of force is applied to tension cables, so having it free standing, or on a wobbly stand, makes things more difficult. I prefer putting the bike on the turbo, then it's solid.

When fitting the cables, it also helps if lighting is good, otherwise use a torch to make sure you can see that things are lined up and fitted ok.

For the derailleur cables, you'll note I set all the adjusters at minimum tension, this is because there's always a little slack or bedding in. If I set the initial tension correctly, then there's maximum adjustment range available in future, i.e. as ferrules and outers fully seat.

I don't apply any lube to the cables and the liners aren't noticeably lubed. I only run liner inside the outer, the rest of the cable runs are open. I ride in all weathers, haven't had any problems with crud getting in and causing friction. This is road only, things might be different for cross/MTB riders.



Shifters.

I find the cable for the rear shifter goes in easily, just click the shifter until it is at the small cog position, make sure the cable has no kinks and the end is cleanly cut, it should go through.

The cable for the front shifter can be a little more fiddly, again make sure the cable is straight and cleanly cut. Set the shifter to the trim position - shifter to big ring position, then one click to drop it back to trim. This puts the entry hole in the best position, the picture below shows the end of the cord seated in the holder, the shifter is in the trim position.

The cable may have a natural curve to it, in this case, insert it into the shifter so that it is curving upwards as this matches the routing inside the shifters.

In both cases, pull the cable all the way through, and at the end apply enough force to seat it fully, have a look to be sure the head isn't caught on the edge of the carrier.


Image


The brake cables go in easily, just move the brake lever in all the way, look inside the cavity for the hole, and poke the cable through, don't release the brake lever until the cable is pulled all the way through and you've checked that the cable head is correctly seated in the recess in the lever.



I'm using the straight path through the shifter for the cable, imho the other path is not as free running.

These bars have internal routing, the Nokon flexy outer sections are being used here, they transition to the 'pearls' inside the bars, the liner runs right through to the end of the flexy sections.

The Powercordz Nokon liner is used for the brake cables (instead of the standard Nokon liner).



Image


As the cables leave the bars, I use a piece of the Nokon clear sleeving on each derailleur cable, this stops them rattling on the bars, I haven't found it necessary on the brake cables.

Image


Btw the SRM mount is the in-line alloy one drilled to match the holes in the bars, there's a rubber strip between mount and bars as the threaded bosses in the bars aren't quite parallel, those crazy Italians!

On the downtube adjusters, because I'm not running liner all the way, I used nosed ferrules (made from the previous Gore cabling) to prevent the cables rubbing on the edges of the adjusters. Whether you need to do something similar will depend on your adjusters. I could've run the liner through, but that would've meant drilling out the adjusters to accommodate the larger diameter, also I prefer the look of the naked cable.

Image


At the cable guide under the bottom bracket shell, I sleeve both gear cables with about 6cm of Powercordz Nokon liner, to protect them against abrasion from dust/dirt on the exposed cable guide, after a few months some dust gets into the liner here, but I've not found it causing a problem.

Image


Brakes.

Cable the brake clamps exactly as in the Powercordz instructions.

I set tension by screwing the adjusters all the way in, then backing out a couple of turns. Then squeeze the calipers closed, get tension on the cable, and pull the knot in the cable around the bolt tight.

Then clamp tight enough to hold the cable, but not all the way.

Let go of calipers, see if the spacing looks ok, if not, loosen bolt and cable and have another go.

Squeeze lever, if you pulled the cable tight enough at first it'll be ok, otherwise you will need to go back and loosen/adjust again.

Once the tension is correct, clamp all the way, 6-8Nm.

Image


Derailleurs.

To set front derailleur cable tension, doing it the standard way I always found I ended up with the cable too slack, after some experimentation, I found the best way, for me at least, is like this...

Barrel adjuster is all the way in, i.e. for minimum tension.

Run the cable up over the cable clamp bolt, then back down so that the end passes inside the chain stays (i.e., where the wheel is).

Make a simple open knot in the cable end and pass something through it that you can use as a handle, I use a big hex key. Hint: do not use the hex key that is needed to tighten the cable clamp.

Shifter must be in highest tension position, i.e. for cage fully to the right.

Use one hand to move the cage to the correct outer position, so that it's against the limit screw.

With the other hand grab the 'handle' on the cable, and pull straight down until you have enough tension to hold the cage in position.

Now, keeping the tension constant, let go of the cage (if the cage moves you can increase/decrease tension but don't vary it too much or the cable may be abraded on the bolt) and use your free hand to tighten the clamp enough to hold the cable.

Release the tension, if the cage is still in the correct position that's good, otherwise retension, loosen clamp and adjust again.

Once it seems ok, turn the cranks and shift to the small ring, if the cage moves all the way that's great, otherwise youve got the tension too high and will need to go back and have another go.

Once it's correct, fully clamp the cable, 5Nm.


Image


Finally, the rear derailleur.

Down tube adjuster all the way in, minimum tension position. Same for the barrel adjuster on the derailleur itself.

Shifter at minimum tension position, smallest cog.

I've not found it necessary to sleeve or drill out the adjuster, with SRAM's correct cable routing the cable doesn't rub on the edge. When I changed handlebars, I took the cables off, they'd had 6 months use and there was no sign of any damage to the casing at either the shifters or at the adjusters.

Route the cable through, making sure to follow exactly the right path, don't apply tension until you are sure the path is correct as if it's wrong there are some sharp edges.

Run the cable almost 360 degrees around the clamp bolt, then pull on it to tension, tighten the bolt enough to hold it without crushing the casing.

Turn the cranks, shift to the next cog - no further, too much tension and the cable will slip - then down again.

If it shifted ok, fully clamp, 4-5Nm, otherwise loosen, adjust tension, and repeat the process.

Turn the cranks and run up and down the cassette, using the rear adjuster to align for correct shifting.

I find that the rear tension eases a bit over the first day or two of use, presumably as the outer, ferrules etc. seat fully, so having all the available range in the adjusters means there's still way more than enough for tuning the shifting.

Image

Another view of the cable path, cable straight through the adjuster without touching the edge, plenty of contact area under the clamp.


Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 1:23 am 
Offline

Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2011 10:50 pm
Posts: 633
I run 1.2 mm power cords in mini ilinks for over a year now. I' veeven been using them for brakes to save weight. I also like danger


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 1:57 am 
Offline

Joined: Sat Apr 22, 2006 12:38 am
Posts: 1704
Location: Dutchess County, NY
voodoojar wrote:
I run 1.2 mm power cords in mini ilinks for over a year now. I' veeven been using them for brakes to save weight. I also like danger


mmm, if you really like danger, you should come hang out w/ the bear that's been wandering around my neighborhood as of late!

_________________
Speedplay is the devil, Specialized is making their way to taking that title, however.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Nov 01, 2011 8:05 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2008 5:17 am
Posts: 575
Location: NZ
Thanks Sungod, some excellent stuff here, even if not using powercords.

I'm particularly interested in you using the alternative routing for the rear derailleur cable around the handlebar - the straight through exit from the shifter that takes the cable around the back of the bar.

I've always used the other option, mostly because that's the way my Red was set up when I got it. Keen to hear how many others use the straight through option and any opinions on whether that works better than the other option.

Thanks again!

:beerchug:

GJ


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 4:19 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2007 1:57 pm
Posts: 7404
Location: San Francisco, CA
I had Powercordz installed in iLinks shift cables, the lined iLinks derailleur cable for the brakes (installed by Bike Nüt, out of business for around a year now). This worked well but just this morning as I was testing my bike the day before a race the rear derailleur Powercord broke at the shift lever.

Anyway, I've broken steel cables before, so I'm not sure this says anything about Powercordz, but I do have a decent record of my weight weenie stuff causing reliability issues.

Luckily my GF is taking the day off and offered to take the whole mess to a local shop (not many are really qualified to deal with this sort of stuff, so I'll have to make some calls).

_________________
http://djconnel.blogspot.com/
Fuji SL/1
\


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 4:24 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Dec 28, 2009 8:30 pm
Posts: 3667
Location: Bay Area
Toss a new cable in for the day?

_________________
Don't take me too seriously. Super Six Evo Hi-Mod


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 6:50 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2007 1:57 pm
Posts: 7404
Location: San Francisco, CA
I wasn't sure what the issues were with cables and iLinks.... since my iLinks teflon-coated derailleur cable was currently cut and installed as my brake cable I didn't have an iLinks cable handy. I had to rush off to catch a train so I could go to work.

Will make some calls...

I don't know if I want to try PowerCordz again. Weight savings was nice but I don't like stuff spontaneously braking. Of course I've broken steel cables before, but I'm still suspicious.

_________________
http://djconnel.blogspot.com/
Fuji SL/1
\


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 7:26 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2007 1:57 pm
Posts: 7404
Location: San Francisco, CA
Update: called customer support and they were excellent. Said you need to watch for friction points where cord is in contact with sharp edges. He's sending me a replacement cord and a ferrule to help with routing, so I'll basically be set. Of course I won't have that tomorrow.... but I can do a temporary fix, I suppose.

_________________
http://djconnel.blogspot.com/
Fuji SL/1
\


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 5:01 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2007 1:57 pm
Posts: 7404
Location: San Francisco, CA
GF took it in but the shop didn't like the state of my liner so they swapped iLinks for standard housing... then didn't like the state of my bar tape so put on padded tape...90 grams gained, $45 lost. Usually you don't pay $0.50/gram to gain weight, and I'd spoken to him over the phone first.

Ah, well. I'll probably use the stuff one ride then swap, swap the padded tape for cotton, swap the steel cable to the replacement PowerCordz, and hopefully be able to get the iLinks back installed.

_________________
http://djconnel.blogspot.com/
Fuji SL/1
\


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 5:00 am 
Offline

Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2012 12:41 pm
Posts: 115
should any of this have changed for the 2012 Red? compatibility, performance, what people are saying with pcordz with nokon, i links, etc on the new shifterset? alternatively, is there any reason performancewise I should keep cables and housing that come stock?


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 11:45 am 
Offline

Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2010 9:37 pm
Posts: 548
Location: it's raining, it must be uk
can't see why there'd be any problem using nokon/ilinks and powerdcordz with the new red


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 5:09 am 
Offline

Joined: Thu Feb 09, 2012 12:41 pm
Posts: 115
tks! roughly speaking how much weight savings will there be by employing that cableset (PC + nokon or ilinks) over stock red cableset ?
on my defense I looked it up for a full 5 minutes and couldnt find the answer!!


Top
 Profile  
 
Posted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 5:09 am 


Top
  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2012 8:31 am 
Offline

Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2010 9:37 pm
Posts: 548
Location: it's raining, it must be uk
on mine it saved about 120g nokon+powercordz

acording to powercordz...
2m cord weighs 3g, a steel cable is 12-17g
uncut 1.8m road brake cord weighs less than 5g, compared to 20g+ for a steel unit

their new prime outer is lighter than nokon, haven't tried it though

someone posted this list of weights for outer on ww a while ago...

BRAKE:
Tune "plastic"5mm: 18g/m
Tune "plastic" 6mm : 21.5g/m
Alligator i-Links: 27g/m
Tune "Aluminum" : 37g/m
Nokon (Aluminium outer+Liner): 38,1g/m
Powercordz: 45g/m, the new prime is 24g/m
Jagwire: 50g/m
Shimano: 53.0g/m
Gore Ride-on: 54g/m
Gore: 57g/m
Shimano XTR : 58.5g/m

SHIFT:
Gleitec U3 : 12.5g/m (not available anymore)
Alligator Mini i-Links(outer Aluminium+Liner): 15,5g/m
Tune "plastic": 18/m
Shimano SP81 Yumeya: 23g/m
Gore Ride-on light (without inner Liner!): 23g/m
Alligator i-Links (outer Aluminium+Liner): 27g/m
Jagwire: 32.0g/m
Shimano SIS : 34.0g/m
Nokon Carbon (Carbon outer+Liner): 35,1g/m
Transfil "flying snake": 36g/m
Nokon (Aluminium outer+Liner): 38,1g/m
Powercordz: 39g/m, the new prime is 24g/m
Gore Ride-on: 54g/m


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 36 posts ] 
Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3  Next


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: AGW, AXAxel, bJay, bombertodd, eric01, Google [Bot], RippedUp and 58 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  

   Similar Topics   Author   Replies   Views   Last post 
There are no new unread posts for this topic. Using Powercordz on EE brake

in Road

Mimizk

5

699

Tue Aug 27, 2013 9:14 am

Dammit View the latest post

There are no new unread posts for this topic. Lighter Housing: Aican Bungarus or Powercordz Swift?

in Road

drainyoo

11

864

Sat Mar 01, 2014 5:36 pm

drainyoo View the latest post

There are no new unread posts for this topic. Sram 22 and old Sram compatibility

in Road

TimmS

11

1218

Mon Feb 24, 2014 1:55 pm

tvillumsen View the latest post

There are no new unread posts for this topic. SRam Powerlink on DA?

in Road

addictR1

9

655

Wed Nov 20, 2013 12:46 pm

Zigmeister View the latest post

There are no new unread posts for this topic. SRAM Red 2012 what FD..

in Road

rogan

7

1004

Thu Sep 05, 2013 9:49 pm

johnsaysthisnow View the latest post


It is currently Tue Jul 29, 2014 6:50 am

All times are UTC + 1 hour




Advertising   –  FAQ   –  Contact   –  Convert   –  About

© Weight Weenies 2000-2013
hosted by starbike.com


How to get rid of these ads? Just register!


Powered by phpBB