Dati 194/64gr hub
Moderator: robbosmans
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At Stu:
I've pulled mine apart and the axel strength won't be an issue, I think. Holding them up against a set of ACs, the dati has better rear hub spacing (have both hubs here now).
I've pulled mine apart and the axel strength won't be an issue, I think. Holding them up against a set of ACs, the dati has better rear hub spacing (have both hubs here now).
Updated: Racing again! Thought this was unlikely! Eventually, I may even have a decent race!
Edit: 2015: darn near won the best South Island series (got second in age
-group)..woo hoo Racy Theremery is back!!
Edit: 2015: darn near won the best South Island series (got second in age
-group)..woo hoo Racy Theremery is back!!
- StuTheWeak
- Posts: 763
- Joined: Sat Apr 09, 2011 11:29 pm
- Location: Springdale, AR
theremery wrote:At Stu:
I've pulled mine apart and the axel strength won't be an issue, I think. Holding them up against a set of ACs, the dati has better rear hub spacing (have both hubs here now).
Can you drill me a 36h variant...lace the rear to a 36h Niobium with DT Revolutions and a 28h front...I'd very much like that.
That would be the ticket to a sub-1400g clyde wheelset provided the axle is robust enough.
Specialized Allez 06' "Rain Bike" 21.50lbs
Neuvation F100 11' "Road Bike" 16.80lbs
Specialized Tarmac Pro 11' "WW Bike" 14.25lbs
Neuvation F100 11' "Road Bike" 16.80lbs
Specialized Tarmac Pro 11' "WW Bike" 14.25lbs
You need to contactthem and see if you can get a custom set drilled (seems feasable). I'd go edge lite for a bigger bloke tho.......and go 24 28 unless you are over 100kg.
Updated: Racing again! Thought this was unlikely! Eventually, I may even have a decent race!
Edit: 2015: darn near won the best South Island series (got second in age
-group)..woo hoo Racy Theremery is back!!
Edit: 2015: darn near won the best South Island series (got second in age
-group)..woo hoo Racy Theremery is back!!
According to the manufacturer, the DATI freehub is SRAM compatible. I've sold about 40 sets over the past six months and would imagine at least some of my customers are using SRAM and not Shimano. Feedback has been good and so far there have been no reported problems. They seem to be a little more refined than the other hubs I sell (and they cost a lot more, too).
Below are the thoughts of one builder who bought 11 sets from me. I asked him for some feedback that I could share with other customers, because I haven't used them myself.
(February 7 - after first build)
I built a pair proto-type wheels using your hubs, 38mm tubular rims from China, Sapim CX-Ray spokes and Sapim alloy nipples. They came in at 1200g exactly. I took the 38mm wheels with your rims to our season opener today and the first person who saw them insisted on buying them on the spot. I was hoping to use them to sell more, but I figured what the heck.
The hubs look really slick and were well received. I have never seen a hub that is counter-sunk for spokes in the way those are, essentially dictating the build. I did 2-cross on the left rear but will build subsequent wheels radial on the left rear.
May 15 (after building up several sets)
As you are probably aware, the holes are chamfered in a way that seem to dictate how the wheels are to be laced. That is, radial on the front and NDS rear and crossed on the DS rear. The first few sets I built I ordered the spokes without noticing how the way the holes chamfered. I built the NDS 2-cross because that the length of spoke I purchased was for that pattern. The build looked good regardless and I continue to have only compliments on those wheels. All subsequent pairs I have build as the hubs dictate. Knowing that the champhers are there, and seeing the spoke heads seated as designed looks really sweet. But building the NDS crossed, looks good as well, does not appear if something is amiss and has held up well in the pairs that I have built with crossed NDS's.
Below are the thoughts of one builder who bought 11 sets from me. I asked him for some feedback that I could share with other customers, because I haven't used them myself.
(February 7 - after first build)
I built a pair proto-type wheels using your hubs, 38mm tubular rims from China, Sapim CX-Ray spokes and Sapim alloy nipples. They came in at 1200g exactly. I took the 38mm wheels with your rims to our season opener today and the first person who saw them insisted on buying them on the spot. I was hoping to use them to sell more, but I figured what the heck.
The hubs look really slick and were well received. I have never seen a hub that is counter-sunk for spokes in the way those are, essentially dictating the build. I did 2-cross on the left rear but will build subsequent wheels radial on the left rear.
May 15 (after building up several sets)
As you are probably aware, the holes are chamfered in a way that seem to dictate how the wheels are to be laced. That is, radial on the front and NDS rear and crossed on the DS rear. The first few sets I built I ordered the spokes without noticing how the way the holes chamfered. I built the NDS 2-cross because that the length of spoke I purchased was for that pattern. The build looked good regardless and I continue to have only compliments on those wheels. All subsequent pairs I have build as the hubs dictate. Knowing that the champhers are there, and seeing the spoke heads seated as designed looks really sweet. But building the NDS crossed, looks good as well, does not appear if something is amiss and has held up well in the pairs that I have built with crossed NDS's.
I just laced up a set to some Kinlin 30mm rims in a 2X DS/NDS without any problems. I only have about 100 miles on them, but I haven't had any problems thus far.
The NDS holes are countersunk the deepest on the outer side of the flange, implying that they should be laced radially. However, there is a slight countersink to the holes on the inner side of the flange that worked well enough. Again, I didn't have any problems (used Sapim Lasers).
The NDS holes are countersunk the deepest on the outer side of the flange, implying that they should be laced radially. However, there is a slight countersink to the holes on the inner side of the flange that worked well enough. Again, I didn't have any problems (used Sapim Lasers).
I was thinking of building it with radial on the NDS since the hub is made for that. Will i notice a big difference if I lace 2x vs radial NDS? By the way, what is the weight for the kinlin 30mm wiht the dati's? Did you use 12mm alloy or brass? THanks
I'm not too sure about the differences (other than stiffness) if you were to lace them radially. You may want to check in the wheelbuilding thread for a better answer from a more knowledgeable wheelbuilder.
The total weight for the wheelset came in at 1436 g, with the front being 634 g and the rear 802 g. I went with 12 mm Sapim brass nipples for the added durability and value.
The total weight for the wheelset came in at 1436 g, with the front being 634 g and the rear 802 g. I went with 12 mm Sapim brass nipples for the added durability and value.
Does anyone know the bearing size(s) for the Dati hubs?
For the bikehubstore "SuperLight" rear hubs the bearings are spec'd
Wondering if the Dati one saves the weight in the bearings (smaller sizes) or elsewhere.
For the bikehubstore "SuperLight" rear hubs the bearings are spec'd
Four sealed Enduro bearings (3 x 6802, 1 x 6902)
Wondering if the Dati one saves the weight in the bearings (smaller sizes) or elsewhere.
Bikes: Raw Ti, 650b flatbar CX
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Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
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