tips on first cx bike

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crit_racer
Posts: 110
Joined: Thu Jun 18, 2009 3:08 am

by crit_racer

Hey everyone,

I’m about to make the leap into the psycho cross world and I would love if you guys could give me some tips on a bike build and some sizing tips for cross.
In the last year I purchased a new road rig, consequently demoting my old steed to its current job of being a piece of furniture. I’ve recently come up with the thought that I should use most of the parts on this bike to create my first cross bike.
This bike has a complete Tiagra groupset, with a triple crankset. It also has shimano R500 wheels (not sure what they would be like for cross).
I need help with a choice of frameset, I’ve being looking at the Specialized Crux but I would love to hear of other framesets that you guys would recommend over the specialized.
I guess I would also like advice on brake choice and any other parts which I will need to complete the build.
Finally, I would love any tips or advice on sizing on a frame. Cyclocross isn’t very big is Aus so bike shops aren’t very knowledgeable in cx sizing. I currently ride a 54cm Cervelo s2 with my inseam being 82.5cm and my saddle height c-t being 73cm.

Tom

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Peter_E
Posts: 451
Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2007 1:39 pm

by Peter_E

Hi, the Crux looks nice although not particularly light. As far as sizing goes it seems to me that since you ride a 54 Cervelo that is rather small for a 54 you should probably go for a 52 cross frame as long as the head tube is not too short.

I ride a Scott cx-bike and the geometry is quite road like so if you are a road rider you might like it. Their small/51 is pretty big so you might be able to use that. The 54 Scott gives me about 5mm longer reach with equal stem length compared to my Cervelo R3SL so depending on stem length you use for your Cervelo the Scott CX in 54 could be a good choice for you too.

As far as brakes are concerned the TRP EuroX are good value if you pick up a new pair that includes the adjustable pad holders. Kore have some Cantis that looks good and good value too. Shimanos cantis are okay but extremely heave so stay away from those.

spandexboy817
Posts: 172
Joined: Fri Apr 18, 2008 12:55 am

by spandexboy817

I am with crit racer on this one. Also from personal experience I have always found a slightly smaller cross frame to be a little quicker, easier to throw around, and just work better... I am normally a 60-61cm road frame and rock a 58 cm cross bike most of the time. I was checking out the new cannondale superX and they don't even make a size above a 58!

crit_racer
Posts: 110
Joined: Thu Jun 18, 2009 3:08 am

by crit_racer

Had the opportunity to buy a complete TRP EuroX cantis set (new) for $50, hesitated though and they were gone. :(
Thanks for both your tips on frame size, I was thinking a 52cm, seen as you have the extra height due to the fork clearance. I do like to run -17 stems though so I will definitely go and check them out at the lbs.
I think I've rounded it down to a crux, scott or a caad. I wonder if cannondale will be updating the current caadx to something similar to the caad10.

Westifer12
Posts: 380
Joined: Wed Dec 22, 2010 2:22 am
Location: Seattle, WA

by Westifer12

If you're just putting Tiagra on the frame it might be more economical to buy a complete bike.
2011 Trek Paragon 29er | Reba XX 120mm Fork | XX Drivetrain | 160mm White/Carbon Exiler CR Brakes | Thomson 90mm Stem & Post | Easton Monkey Lite Bar | X.9 Hubs to DT Swiss X470's | Schwalbe Rocket Rons

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Oregonic
Posts: 40
Joined: Thu Apr 07, 2011 5:06 pm

by Oregonic

spandexboy817 wrote:I am with crit racer on this one. Also from personal experience I have always found a slightly smaller cross frame to be a little quicker, easier to throw around, and just work better... I am normally a 60-61cm road frame and rock a 58 cm cross bike most of the time. I was checking out the new cannondale superX and they don't even make a size above a 58!

Some manufacturers, C-Dale in particular, have really long top tubes, so a 58 fits a lot bigger than a typical 58 road frame might.

Another thought - I went with a single ring up front when I started cross racing. Dropped a little weight, sure, but it made things a lot less complicated, especially on the muddy courses we typically have. If you take the time to set everything up properly, it can be a really reliable and simple setup. Also, you only need to think about one shifter when you're red-lining it and drooling on yourself. Just a thought...

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