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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 2:13 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2008 7:39 am
Posts: 367
Location: Melbourne
Hi

I'm considering a Rotor 3D SRM and wanted to ask those in the know how easy (or otherwise) it is to change them between bikes.

I've seen a You Tube vid of a guy changing a SRAM chainset between bikes in 53 sec. I'm not concerned if it takes a few mins but I'm assuming that it is it realtively straightforward with Rotor as well (given that I'm pretty sure they're the same set up as DA).

Thanks heaps

Simon


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Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 2:13 am 


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 5:53 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 08, 2011 7:56 am
Posts: 176
Location: California
do you mind posting the link?


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 6:05 am 
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Location: Melbourne
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibycOXD-Mw0

Would Rotor 3D be in the ballpark?


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 7:58 am 
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Posts: 196
I've got a couple of Rotor cranks and I'm using them with Shimano BBs. For me it was actually not easy at all to get them installed. It was incredibly difficult to get the spindle through the BB, and even took a bit of bashing with a rubber mallet. I don't know if that would get better over time as the BB wears in, but I know it was quite a process.

Aside from that I wouldn't think it would be a problem - maybe the little rubber o-ring would start to wear out with many changes, but I'm sure Rotor could supply a few of those as replacements.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 9:07 am 
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Location: Melbourne
SW wrote:
I've got a couple of Rotor cranks and I'm using them with Shimano BBs. For me it was actually not easy at all to get them installed. It was incredibly difficult to get the spindle through the BB, and even took a bit of bashing with a rubber mallet. I don't know if that would get better over time as the BB wears in, but I know it was quite a process.

Aside from that I wouldn't think it would be a problem - maybe the little rubber o-ring would start to wear out with many changes, but I'm sure Rotor could supply a few of those as replacements.


Thanks for your reply.

Shouldn't make any difference given it's the same system but does anyone else know whether it's easier using the Rotor BBs?


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 7:50 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 22, 2008 5:44 pm
Posts: 75
I can tell you that installing and removing my Rotor crank from my King BB is easy easy easy. The fancy "DTT" bolt they use in the NDS crankarm pinch clamp is genius. You loosen the bolt then keep turning it a an extra rotation or so. That extra turn actually causes the DTT bolt to force the clamp to open up slightly so that it can be pulled off easily. I can probably R&R my crank in well under a minute. The most difficult part is getting that damn o-ring onto the crank spindle. It has a tendency to fly across the room as I'm stretching it, but that's a mere annoyance, not a technical difficulty.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 8:08 pm 
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Location: Melbourne
Phish57 wrote:
I can tell you that installing and removing my Rotor crank from my King BB is easy easy easy. The fancy "DTT" bolt they use in the NDS crankarm pinch clamp is genius. You loosen the bolt then keep turning it a an extra rotation or so. That extra turn actually causes the DTT bolt to force the clamp to open up slightly so that it can be pulled off easily. I can probably R&R my crank in well under a minute. The most difficult part is getting that damn o-ring onto the crank spindle. It has a tendency to fly across the room as I'm stretching it, but that's a mere annoyance, not a technical difficulty.


Thanks very much, I appreciate your advice and I like the King BB options.

Simon


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 8:55 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:56 pm
Posts: 543
Location: Canada
SW wrote:
I've got a couple of Rotor cranks and I'm using them with Shimano BBs. For me it was actually not easy at all to get them installed. It was incredibly difficult to get the spindle through the BB, and even took a bit of bashing with a rubber mallet. I don't know if that would get better over time as the BB wears in, but I know it was quite a process.

Aside from that I wouldn't think it would be a problem - maybe the little rubber o-ring would start to wear out with many changes, but I'm sure Rotor could supply a few of those as replacements.


I've had this experience as well, with a couple of Rotor 3d Quarqs. The answer is that theyve machined the shaft to slightly larger tolerance, and when I say "slightly" i mean it. All I needed to do was take some 600 wet paper and after a few passes on the shaft, it slides through the BB smooth as butter. I would not recommend bashing with a mallet, because you run the risk of wrecking the bearings. Just get a bit of sandpaper.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 7:29 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2008 12:04 pm
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Thanks for the heads up - they're installed now so I won't bother taking them back out, but will certainly remember this for whenever I do a full overhaul. Thanks!


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 2:36 pm 
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It's a piece of cake with King BBs. I have a few set up that way and found it to work perfect because of the way CK did their plastic insert that sits between the bb bearing and the spindle.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 11:02 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2008 7:39 am
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Location: Melbourne
Thanks again for all your replies, much appreciated.

I now have 3 x CK BBs, which I have to say are a work of art, gorgeous.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 11:18 am 
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Joined: Fri May 04, 2007 5:27 pm
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The only thing to beware of is that constantly removing / reinstalling things does cause the hardware to wear. Also, rings will wear pretty fast (relatively), if they're being used on 2 bikes that use different chains and cassettes.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 11:34 am 
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Location: Melbourne
musket wrote:
The only thing to beware of is that constantly removing / reinstalling things does cause the hardware to wear. Also, rings will wear pretty fast (relatively), if they're being used on 2 bikes that use different chains and cassettes.


Thanks for this.

When you say hardware, do you mean just bolts etc? I hear you about the rings also...I will be keeping a close eye on relative chain wear but, yep, they'll wear.

However, a bit of wear and tear will be cheaper than multiple PMs...


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 2:49 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 04, 2009 9:24 pm
Posts: 100
SW wrote:
I've got a couple of Rotor cranks and I'm using them with Shimano BBs. For me it was actually not easy at all to get them installed. It was incredibly difficult to get the spindle through the BB, and even took a bit of bashing with a rubber mallet. I don't know if that would get better over time as the BB wears in, but I know it was quite a process.

Aside from that I wouldn't think it would be a problem - maybe the little rubber o-ring would start to wear out with many changes, but I'm sure Rotor could supply a few of those as replacements.


I've just discovered this problem too. Thought I'd ordered the wrong BB but nope, it just needs 'extreme persuasion' to fit.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 5:25 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:56 pm
Posts: 543
Location: Canada
Sand the shaft, or you'll wreck your BB bearings. You"re putting force on the inner race when you "persuade" it, and eventually that bearing will fail.

mcrdave wrote:
SW wrote:
I've got a couple of Rotor cranks and I'm using them with Shimano BBs. For me it was actually not easy at all to get them installed. It was incredibly difficult to get the spindle through the BB, and even took a bit of bashing with a rubber mallet. I don't know if that would get better over time as the BB wears in, but I know it was quite a process.

Aside from that I wouldn't think it would be a problem - maybe the little rubber o-ring would start to wear out with many changes, but I'm sure Rotor could supply a few of those as replacements.


I've just discovered this problem too. Thought I'd ordered the wrong BB but nope, it just needs 'extreme persuasion' to fit.


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Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 5:25 pm 


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