Anyone else replaced their bearings and bushes?
If so any tips (aside form "take it to the LBS")...
Where did you get the bearing from Scott official or bearing supplier.
If the latter anyone have the correct bearing size / spec.
(I have also sent a query to Scott direct, waiting fo reply).

I serviced them after 9 months (strip clean & lube (inc removing bearing outer seals and repacking with fresh grease)).

18 months old and the chain stay bearings are certainly shot...back end is wagging its tail...

Cheers for your input.

Shadwell

spec. of bearings from their manual -
2 x 61900 (22x10xT6)
6 x 63800 (19x10xT7)

Cheers, got the bearing types from the owners manual..
www.DIYMTB.com.au have kits of these...

I also found a link to a guy whio had doen the bearings at home using a g clamp but had stuggled with the main swing arm BB's, little in the way of a surface to brace against.

Many LBS don;t have the special tools required for this work, even Scott dealers....
P1ss poor..

Ideal world:-
Scott design bearings which can be replaced without special tools...
Scott dealers, earn the covetted LBS value by holding the tools to support the models you sell with nice margins....

Anyhow Spark owners / potential buyers, consider this fact in your buying decision. (Still a bloody good bike...)

I know a guy who had the same problem with his rear shock bushings. IIRC he was able to disassemble the whole system (i.e. the pivots that connect the shock to the frame) by himself but, being unable to find replacement bushings, was forced to send the shock to the nearest DT Swiss service.

On another note, I ordered the rear shock pivots at my LBS which is a Scott dealer, which in turn had to order them from DT Swiss Canada - they did not have any in stock and I had to cancel the order a few weeks after, as they still did not manage to get a hold of them.

Please let us know the process about how to replace the bearing (with pictures ) after finished it.

thanks

So did you end up getting the bushings after all? Where from?

I need bushings for the DT xrc shock as well. Only for a different frame

Chris.

_________________
Orbea Oiz - xxxx
MSC Koncept Carbon Di2 - 6955g
Leichtkraft Team Carbon - 6868g.

Following the strip down, I found all the bearings to be in good order.
Play in the rear end was due to the bearing preload having backed off.
As mentioed previously, nip up preload torx, then tighten the allen pinch bolts... all good...
Cleaned up re greased, sweet as now...

It did however highight slight play in the rear wheel bearing too so i cleaned that up and reset the preload.. now all as tight as...

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Scott still need to make easily reaplceable bearings though.. I'll keep these in top condition to try and postpone the inevitbale replacement as long as possible...

I'm in the process of changing my bearings. The only set I'm having trouble removing is that in the top tube at the top of the shock linkage. Unlike the set above the bottom bracket a bit of force applied doesn't seem to push the pivot pin out. Should this push out through the bearings leaving them in to then remove separately or does the pivot pin have a flange on the inner side of the bearings such that they will be pushed out with it. Or any other tips on how these ones are removed??

Mine' a 2007 Spark 20 if that makes any difference.

Cheers.

All this post rings bells!
Had the same issue with having to re-tighten the lower swing-arm pre-load bolt and have successfully managed to do frequent re-packing of upper bearings over the last year and a half. I have steered clear of servicing the lower swing arm bearings (just above the bottom bracket) as I assumed the pin required some form of pressing to remove.
However, recently found that you can tap out the pin from the non drive side pretty easily. It has two bushings which sit over the pin, inside the actual swing-arm and, once it's out, you can push the arm up to reveal the bearings without further dis-assembly. (Look out for the drive side alignment when you reassemble as there is a cut out which needs to be positioned to wedge against the frame).
5finger, Have found a post which describes how to remove the pin and bearings from lower part of shock linkage here:
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=561788 (Post 6)
In case it has been removed it says:
Screw a bolt into one side of the pivot and place a socket/tube against the aluminium insert surrounding the bearing on the other side. The socket needs to be big enough to allow the bearing to fit inside. Then slowly press out the pivot using a G-clamp or vice (easier). This pushes out the pivot with one of the bearings still attached. Remove the bearing by gently prising it off with a flat-bladed screwdriver. The second bearing still in the frame can be pushed out with a large bolt and the same socket as before.
Hammering these bearings out is definitely not to be recommended with a carbon frame!

I haven't taken the plunge yet!

Thanks mickb

I actually tried it again before you posted but pressing the other way and it came out - as described in the mtbr forum you quote above.

Incidentally, in the main pivot bearing (above the bottom bracket) there is some lateral (side to side movement of the pivot shaft) movement possible through the bearings since the chainstay swingarm is wider than the width around the bearings in the frame at this point. Although bearings are sealed, they are exposed to dirt and grime here. On reassembly, I put a half inch tap washer either side in the gap taking out the movement and also providing a seal of sorts to the exposed sides of the bearings. They're a perfect fit for this!

Firstly, do other people have this lateral movement of the shaft through the frame as well (about 2 or 3mm)? Secondly, does anyone see any reason why putting in the rubber tap washers may be detrimental to anything?

5finger,
Had the same thought about the exposed bearing down below as you.
When I opened them to re-pack they were well gritty!
I can see just what you have tried to do with the tap washer. I can see no reason why it shouldn't work out, but "Hey" what do I know! (Have to wonder why Scott didn't attempt to do something similar, though)
Once mine is all bolted up I cannot create any easy movement through the bearings though in theory it should be possible if I pressed hard enough because I do have the 2-3 mm gap.
Might be worth a call to Scott just to check if the lateral movement has been left for a reason.
Haven't actually had those lower bearings out yet.
Can't think that they will just drift out. I imagined that they are sitting against a flange of some sort and needed pulling in some way or do they just push right through?
How did you go on with this?

Yep - they sit up against a flange on the aluminium insert in the frame. Undo the securing bolts on the chainstay and you should be able to push the axle pin out - I managed to do this easily with a 1/4" socket set extension arm tapping on the end with the rubber handle of a screwdriver. I then put the extension back in through the bearing on one side (it has a smaller diameter than the axle pin) and offset it so it pressed on the inner race of the opposite bearing. G-clamp or vice and push it out, maybe changing the point on the inner race of the bearing you're removing to push it out evenly. Once that side's out, the other side is even easier.

Putting them back in, I did them both simultaneously which provided the best alignment when pressing them in.

Hope that helps.

Many thanks 5finger.
That's how I imagined it would need to be done. Great to have the confidence of knowing that it worked for someone else! As it transpires, I should squeeze some more life out of the freshly re-packed bearings before the inevitable replacement is needed.
Had a fair degree of play developing but, as well as re-packing and re-torquing, I have just replaced the Nude shock with an RS Monarch 4.2 (5 week wait, so far, for warranty replacement Nude!!). The service plus different shock with its more robust RS mounting hardware and new bolts has all but eliminated the play. Have a new Nude shock coming under warranty from Switzerland but the jury is out on whether the Monarch will be coming off!!
For anyone else considering a shock swap, I fitted a B tune Monarch 4.2 and it has worked out perfectly for me (180lbs riding weight, not overly aggressive). RS leverage ratio chart had me thinking C tune would be needed but at around 220 psi (275 is max) with the floodgate activated but backed off a little it has eliminated any pedal bob when climbing and gives a very plush ride over rougher stuff. Once dialled in correctly it has been ride and forget!!

5finger,Interested to know how your "tap washer" mod goes on so will check back on this forum again.

08/03/11 Incidentally, I just found this link to how the Scott dealers would do the bushing service if they use the recommended tool kit from 2007. Pages 12-22 show the whole process. Also, some important info on removing your headset (pages 10-11)
http://m.rodas.pt/sitearea/jasma2/download/Workshop_Tech_Service_07.pdf


Hate to think what the "tool kit" costs the dealers!

Cheers
Mick

thanks for having a good thread. I need to replace my lower chainstay. I don't need to service the bearings as they were replaced recently by a mechanic. I want to press out the lower pivot just above the bottom bracket so I can remove the lower chainstay and reinstall the new one. Do you take a regular screw and thread it in on the non drive side and then just tap it out towards the drive side to remove the lower pivot?

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