Firstly there is a difference in BB30 speak between a spacer and a shim.
Spacers are used in MTB applications only.
On a road bike "up to" 5 shims may be used, as necessary so as to just start compressing the wave washer.
So, it would seem to me to be safest to start with zero shims, so as not to invite damaging the bearings, torque it down and see how it looks. You should always check for free spin when torquing down a crankarm on any system, and stop immediately if you feel binding.http://www.cannondale.com/gbr/eng/CannondaleFiles/Manuals/2008_hollowgram_sl_crank_owners_manual_supplement_en.pdf
do you reckon one full crank rotation without the chain is fine? I havent even torqued it to torque spec... I used 3 shims on my caad9, ceramic bearing.
No, seems not right to me. I'd be expecting several revs from a flick of the crank.
I only have the non-drive side crank arm on at this time and it spins freely but not alot of rotation I know it is the current weight on the one side but it doesn't spin like anything special. I am still using my original bearings. Once they wear out I will probably switch to the cermamic bearings that came with the cranks. I am just concerned about the wavey washer on the drive side???
With the nds crank only, there is no bearing preload, but obviously the unbalance will affect spinning. Personally, I would just check the bearing feel itself by hand and ear. It's pretty easy to tell a smooth bearing from a damaged one.
Remember, the minor preload caused by the shim/wavy washer combo is only to eliminate side play - not to actually load the bearing. And if you graunch down with too many shims in the pack you will likely damage a bearing, or the housing.
There's sometimes a buggy.
How many drivers does a buggy have?
So let's just say I'm drivin' this buggy...
and if you fix your attitude you can ride along with me.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GekiIMh4ZkM