Based on group prices I've found on the internet its roughly $3.16 per gram to go from Chorus to Record. And $3.87 per gram to go from Chorus to Super Record. Chorus 2122 grams. Record 1985 grams. Super Record 1933 grams. I find both numbers higher than I am willing to pay. So unless a screaming deal comes along, its Chorus.

You should have an incredibly light bike with that rule...

The $/g changes hugely as you move down in weight, and it is good to pick the low hanging fruit first. $1/g with no downside is a no brainier. Unfortunately you will quickly get to the point where there usually is a loss of function, durability, and maybe aesthetics... as well as a price increase... so there are a lot of variables to juggle.

depends on where you are to start with.

I went from about 21 lbs to about 17+ lbs (pedals included) for between $.50 and $1.00 per gram, closer to $.50 on average I'd say (I have a spreadsheet somewere, can't find it right now). It's pretty easy to be economical going from "really heavy" components to "pretty darn light" components. I really think to get from where I am to the magic 15 lb threshhold will be several times X the cost per gram.

It would be a curve for sure, kind of an exponential curve sort of thing I'd guess. At some point you pay a heck of a lot, and sooner or later you really can't get lighter no matter how much you are willing to spend.

edit - found the summary of what I did for cheap - see attached. Over 1600 g. (3.5 lbs) for a little more than $800, all excellent parts, $.50 per gram. But without changing groupset and frame ($$$), I'm stuck and don't plan to go further for now.

My own experience with a couple of weight weenie builds is that there really is no rule of thumb but rule of heart - especially when the bike gets down to sub6/ 5.5kg area. The cost per gram curve shoots up exponentially as you squeeze the miligrams, usually using more exotic stuff. However, once it gets down to sub 5kg territory, you absolutely have to think about rideability/ durability/ am I cuckoo parameters.

Finding the cost per gram beta is not as simple as

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Current Bikes: Storck F0.6 6kg , Storck Aero2 7.04kg
Storck Organic Light 11.1kg , Storck F0.7IS Di2 4.8kg

The rule of thumb for cost is what I can afford. If it cost $500 and only saves 10 grams and I want it and it's in the budget then it's a done deal.

Whatever you want and can afford is the standard.

I guess what ever you can convince the wife/ other person in your life you need might be rule number 2.

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-For my next trick I will set myself on fire!
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@Camilo love the chart! Cheers!

Yep, I do agree that it has to do not just with maths, but also with emotions, reliability, and more. Personally, I like the $3.5/gram as a starting point. I agree though that once you start looking at super light parts from AX, Schmolke, and others, you start paying for more.

For example, I was looking for a new set of low weight rims and had selected the Edge 1.25. I didn't like the fact that they cost $750 each. The AX rims are lighter, but at about $900 each, beyond my set budget.

Then, I found some FFWD rims that come to a combined weight of about 480gr. These come sourced from someone I know, and they are quite cheaper than the Edges and weight about 50g more. However, in total, I saved about $1,000 by going with these rims.

Though I do have to say that some of the AX parts are just darn sexy. Some of the Zeus stems that I've seen on WW are just amazing. Nathan's Zeus+Schmolke bar just look great.

That being said, going into the second-hand market is also a good option in order to reduce costs. I'm going to be using this on my WW build.

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Range || range.wordpress.com
Asterisk*Cycles
'10 Velocite Millennium Elite SRAM Red
'11 Velocite Geos w SRAM Red || '08 Giant Anthem X0 w SRAM X0 || '93 Pinarello w Shimano 105

So lets have it. What is everyones $/gram ratio working out to roughly, and on what builds.
E.G. $2-3US per gram build for completed bike. Is a 4000gr build setting you back 10k or 20 to build.
Being WW, I am thinking some of us must still factor in a rough budget for a set build weight?
Easy to see the old $1/gr example that I have seen, has grow with inflation.
While some parts individually can run to $10/gr, I think I have seen?
Ready set go, dont be shy, lol.

Thanks Austke.

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2013 Giant TCR Advanced SL 0, 6.92kg
2013 Giant Defy Composite 2 M, 8.5kg - Wife's
Azzurro Torino 8.55g
Fuji 650 10.8kg
Miele Lupa Triple Tandem 38,89kg

5.28kg parlee z5..

2.1$/g

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http://fairwheelbikes.com/cycling-blog/ ... ee-z5.html

I have only just started my build so I won't know the ratio just yet, however, so far, I have spent £200 and saved 200g.

It also seems to be the case with other stuff I am going to buy, the approx £1/gram is the ratio.

£1 GBP is equiv to about $1.6 USD

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Aim : to get a 12.2kg Rockhopper down in the 10's !!

My sloooow weight loss project!

There is always the odd bargin to be found . I got myself some storck UMS forks for my trek build . They only cost £150. But in most cases the lighter you go the more cash you splash just to get those last few grms.

I think that simply taking cost of bike / grams is a useless metric.

If we're talking about $/gram for an upgrade, $3 to $4 per gram or below is reasonable. Above that, I had better be getting something else for my dollars (more comfort, better operation, more aero, etc.)

Well done, to get into the low 5000gr weight for $2.10/gr.
Or to put it another way, you have a 5.28kg Parlee for about $11,000. That is awesome I think.

Very nice build too, Sugarcane!

Austke.

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2013 Giant TCR Advanced SL 0, 6.92kg
2013 Giant Defy Composite 2 M, 8.5kg - Wife's
Azzurro Torino 8.55g
Fuji 650 10.8kg
Miele Lupa Triple Tandem 38,89kg

Thanks.

A corollary is "every gram counts" meaning I'll spend up to $3.50 to save 1 gram, no more than $3500 to save 1 kg. All grams count the same.

Okay, maybe I'll stretch it to $4 in a point of weakness .

There's other functionality considerations, of course...

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Fuji SL/1
Send your data to Weight Weenie listings!

My bike currently weighs 12.47lb (5671g).
The $/g ratio is $0.68/g.
Even if I added $600 brakes to drop a few more grams, added $50 worth in Powercordz to drop more weight, I would only edge up to $0.78/g.
If I switch to tubulars, sub 1000g and drop about 280g including some nice & light tubular tires, bringing it down to 11.94lb/5430g, I'm at $0.70/g.
But, performance wise, the difference between my getting to $3/g and where I am now is not significant enough to justify the switch - at this time.

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Exp001

I could go for lighter bottle cages, and a lighter saddle, which would be about a chunk of edam cheese, and I couldn't really go below the mid 1400g's with the wheels, but cages and a saddle are doable.