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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 6:18 am 
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Location: Central USA
This ebay seller just reassured me that these bolts are for UT cranksets - due to the limited description if you have any doubts (as I did - especially since there are 2 offered when the crank only needs 1....) then please email him before taking my word for validity of the item (I bought 4.......hope they are as he described via emails......)

I do find the claimed weight savings to be suspect too - I'd guess about 8 - 10 grams per bolt (and only one used...) - but still a few grams saved is a few grams saved!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... K:MEWAX:IT


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 7:57 am 
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Location: around amsterdam
they are bolts for a isis bottom bracket
ive got some but havent tried them yet


strangly i havent quite worked out of the spacer is Ti to
its lighter then stainles steel so thats good enough for me

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Posted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 7:57 am 


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 11:53 am 
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Looks like a 5mm hex key. With the stock Campy being 10mm I'm might be concerned about rounding it out since that bolt does have a pretty high torque specification.

BTW, if it works please post up.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 3:37 pm 
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Location: San Juan, Puerto Rico
I have been runing ISIS M15 Ti bolts on my Ultra Torque for quite some time now.....no issues and you save some weight. make sure the bolt is M15 so you can use a bigger allen key to torque down.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 3:49 pm 
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Location: lat 38.9677 lon 77.3366
Best to torque it with the steel bolt and then replace it with the ti. Don't forget the ti lube as it will freeze without it :beerchug:

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 4:01 pm 
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rustychain wrote:
Best to torque it with the steel bolt and then replace it with the ti. Don't forget the ti lube as it will freeze without it :beerchug:


That would do no good at all. The hirth joint is not some sort of tapered fit that like the old square taper or an ISIS BB. The Hirth comes apart easily by hand, once the bolt it removed. The Ti prep would be a good idea. The 42Nm torque is not that large. If the bolt can't take that, it's a piece of junk.


Last edited by DaveS on Tue Nov 24, 2009 2:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 2:06 am 
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Location: down by the Jubilee River
Just weighed some bolts:

Campag stock 16g (10mm hex)
SRP Ti M15 Octalink 9g (8mm hex)
Shimano hollow steel M15 Octalink from FC-M572 9g (10mm hex)

These Al. ones are claimed 20g/pr
http://tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?pro ... ory_id=522

Seems like the Shimano ones are the best bet, as they are steel and use the standard UltraTorque tool. Spare part No Y-1E4 98020 and still fairly widely available. I'll be swapping mine on my WW bike and getting a free 7g saving from the parts bin. Result!


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 4:51 am 
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Location: Winnipeg Canada
You guys are willing to lock your cranks together with just any bolt and void your warranty to save 7 grams? :shock:


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 11:37 am 
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That Shimano bolt is designed to hold cranks on, and designed to be torqued to about 40Nm. How could this be a problem? Just seems like Campag left a bit too much metal on their bolt.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 3:18 pm 
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Location: Winnipeg Canada
A Shimano bolt on a Campagnolo Crank??!?!?! :shock: LOL Seriously though.... I would assume Campagnolo has made that bolt heavier for a reason is all I am saying... You'd figure they would do their normal thing.. one year the product comes out, next year they add some Carbon or Ti bling to save 10 grams.. they never did that with UT crank though... Oh well, your crank not mine :)


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 8:11 pm 
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Location: down by the Jubilee River
ParisCarbon wrote:
next year they add some Carbon or Ti bling to save 10 grams..


A bolt which is hidden in the middle of the BB spindle isn't going to be bling whatever you make it from, so it's hardly a candidate for a "Super Record" variant, and you can't label it Ti if you carefully examine the situation and decide that steel really is the best material to use (as I believe it is, in this application)


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2011 4:27 am 
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I've been using Alu. bolt on UT crank for some time now with no ill effects.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2011 4:43 am 
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Location: Central USA
Since someone bumped this old thread up I need to add an update.

Due to my "project" bike not coming together right away (with 2010 steel spindled SR crank), I didn't learn until much, much later that the head of these bolts were ever so slightly too large to work without a small bit of modificaton. So by then the 2011 titanium spindle crankset had been released (with left hand thread on that Ti bolt) so I bought that crankset and sold the bolts (and the 2010 crank separately) on ebay with full disclosure of the bolt issue. So if you come across an ebay seller with a simillar item - don't buy into it - Use the Campy steel bolt unless you have the SR Ti cranks and bolt


Last edited by tommasini on Sat Sep 03, 2011 1:31 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2011 12:08 pm 
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Location: lat 38.9677 lon 77.3366
SR Ti bolt has reversed threads so I doubt that will be an issue

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2011 1:37 pm 
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Why is SR titanium reverse (left hand) threaded from the steel version? Is that just for forced incompatibility so that bolts and cranks are not interchanged?


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Posted: Sat Sep 03, 2011 1:37 pm 


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