Cheap, yet reliable training wheels

Everything about building wheels, glueing tubs, etc.
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devinci
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Location: Canada

by devinci

I have various sets of quality DT/Fulcrum/Dura-Ace training wheels and have never paid more than $300.


HOW? used?


by Weenie


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devinci
Posts: 3039
Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 9:43 pm
Location: Canada

by devinci

nice site bikenerd, thanks

do you know if the price is for the wheelset or for each wheel?

And can someone tell me whats the difference between mavie open pro ceramic and open pro couche dure (CD)

thanks

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mitre_tester
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Joined: Thu Dec 04, 2008 7:21 pm
Location: down by the Jubilee River

by mitre_tester

devinci wrote:can someone tell me whats the difference between mavie open pro ceramic and open pro couche dure (CD)


CD is a hard anodised rim, nicer than the basic Open Pro but will still wear out if your brake blocks are dirty. Ceramic has a plasma sprayed ceramic coating on the brake surface, and although they're twice the price of CD new, they last forever in conditions which destroy normal brake tracks in a season. If you ride a lot in wet and dirty conditions, they're worth the extra. The surface is somewhat rough, so they work well in all conditions but can wear standard brake blocks quickly; there are ceramic specific blocks from Swiss Stop, Kool Stop and Shimano which mitigate this.

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devinci
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Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 9:43 pm
Location: Canada

by devinci

I had a serious look at bikenerd website and Im seriously thinking about ordering a wheelset next week.

I would order

-mavic open pro ceramic
-ultegra hubs
-dt comp black spokes
-silver nipples
-3 cross front and rear

total cost including shipping would be 355 us$

What are you guys thinking about this build? What would be the difference going radial front? Also, does the ultegra hubs worth it over the 105?

thanks

shadwell
Posts: 575
Joined: Fri Oct 16, 2009 1:25 am
Location: Gold Coast Australia

by shadwell

Bomb proof....

Ultegra hubs are slightly lighter and have higher quality and hence more duarble materials.
Loose bearings will give you years of service and serviceability, free rolling too, just grease and maintain the bearing preload as required.

Depending on your mass, I'd go Radial front (if the shimano hub flange is deep enough to accept this).
Then perhaps 2 cross rear drive and radial rear non drive side.

Three cross will make a comfortable resilient wheel that will take alot of abuse but it won't be your lightest option.
Only consider alu nipples fr and rr drive side, and only of you are prepared to oil occasioanlly and cleam regularly. Else stick to brass.

All the best.

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devinci
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Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 9:43 pm
Location: Canada

by devinci

thanks dude

any other advice on lacing patern. it seams I can only go for 3 cross. 3 cross is stiffer then radial? And brass nipple requieres less maintenance? I am 70kg

ClimberInCambridge
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Joined: Sat Oct 31, 2009 10:59 pm

by ClimberInCambridge

For me, the "cheap" yet reliable training wheels are Open Sport rims built on Tiagra hubs with DT Competition spokes. Spoke count and lacing depending on weight of user. These wheels are totally bombproof, totally cheap and totally reliable, but offer a very good ride. Not very light though, but light is for racing, not training. If you are better monied than me then Open Pro/Ultegra is an excellent combination. You can use DT Revolution spokes for everything except the drive side of the rear wheel and they'll be nice and light too.

Geoff
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Joined: Sat Dec 13, 2003 2:25 am
Location: Canada

by Geoff

devinci wrote:HOW? used?

Absolutely! You would be amazed at the great kit that Tri-guys will dump at the end of the season. Right now I am looking at a set of 1080s basically for free!

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devinci
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Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 9:43 pm
Location: Canada

by devinci

if any of you guys have pictures of OP ceramics it would be nice!!

for now its gonna be

-OP ceramic 32h
-ultegra hubs
-brass nipple
-dt champion 2.0 black spokes
-cross rear radial front?

Im quite confused with the radial/cross lacing of the front wheel.
Excuse my ignorance, but what advantages would I have going radial front? Im 70 kg.

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mitre_tester
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Joined: Thu Dec 04, 2008 7:21 pm
Location: down by the Jubilee River

by mitre_tester

devinci wrote:what advantages would I have going radial front?


Radial is fractionally lighter, because the spokes a slightly shorter, and fractionally stiffer axially because the bracing angle is a tiny bit wider. Both effects are tiny, and if you had that much worry about either weight or lateral stiffness you wouldn't be using Open Pros on Ultegra. For the classic build you're proposing, most people go for 3x all round. Don't use DT Champions, double butted spokes are the default for a reason. DT Comps are the right spoke for this build.

Leloby
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 2:55 pm
Location: UK

by Leloby

Beware the Open Pro Ceramic.

I have had a dreadful experience with rims blistering this year and have stopped using them entirely. This was compounded by Mavic pulling out of the UK supply network and going direct to retail, meaning that warranty claims can't be dealt with by the wholesalers as they are not Mavic customers anymore.

I use Open Pro Ceramics myself and have a pair with loads of winter miles on them but they are much older rims and I think the latest batches are not to be trusted, to say the least.

You can imagine the problems involved when a rim goes like this early on in its life! Just a word of warning.

Here is a rim with this issue. It wasn't subjected to any abuse and was used with Fibrax 'ceramic specific' pads. I have seen the same happen with standard Shimano or Campag pads. More pics available.
Attachments
IMG_2881.jpg

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devinci
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Joined: Sat Jan 03, 2009 9:43 pm
Location: Canada

by devinci

:cry:

that sucks

is it a frequent issue with OP ceramic rims? I'd buy them from a US seller on internet. Are there any year models who are more subject to this problem? Gotta suck, I really want those rims now that you guys have pointed these to me

Leloby
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2008 2:55 pm
Location: UK

by Leloby

Well, I have seen 2 pairs sent to Germany, one to Finland and about 6 in the UK that this has happened to. The rear rim you see here had only had about 1000miles use. Some have gone in less, some in mixed wet and dry miles and some in totally dry conditions.

They make nice strong fixed-wheels though so there is some consolation!

If you experience this, take it up directly with Mavic and they might help you out but I wouldn't bet on it - claiming that its a manufacturing problem and not your fault is very difficult to back-up.

I know 1 person who got something out of them but who would want replacements? - the same might happen again! That would be a REAL pisser.

sawyer
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Joined: Fri Dec 15, 2006 7:45 pm
Location: Natovi Landing

by sawyer

interesting reading this thread as it fits with a lot of other threads on this subject ... the "handbuilt" lobby argues for handbuilt because you can replace the parts easily and cheaply (no doubt true), and then evidences examples of handbuilt wheel failure.

am I the only one who rides factory wheels and simply doesn't experience these failures???? I have owned one set of handbuilt wheels in the last 5 years and it's given me more problems than the 10 or so set of factory wheels I've owned.

based on experience posted on forums like this, experience of others riders I know etc. i doubt any handbuilt wheelbuilder has a lower failure rate than campagnolo.
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Stiff, Light, Aero - Pick Three!! :thumbup:

by Weenie


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