Looks sweet.. who sells them?

Thing is its not out yet but will be very soon, most of the online store should have it.

I was in the LBS today and asked some of the MTB mechanics .. and one guy was talking about the Rock Shox Ruby. I read some feedback on MTBreview and everyone trashed the lockout. Anyone familiar with the Ruby? I know RS doesn't make it anymore but they're not too hard to find. I think there's a couple on ebay now.

Chainreaction (www.chainreactioncycles.com) sells Rock Shox Ruby for £99. Weight: 2 lbs. For use with road brakes. Lockout. etc. They have also got the RS Metro for £39.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/viewproduct.asp?category=Forks&ModelID=4177

Excellent! Thanks for the link TREK/VW.. I think for the price (about half what it was normally new) it's a great deal. I emailed them with questions and they responded right away. I'm guessing these guys have a good reputation for service.

The only downside is the 1" steering tube.. but I have a bike it will fit now that I can try it on. Well, perhaps another downside is the regular roadie brakes, but maybe I can turn that into an upside. It's fairly light compared to many shock systems. If it doesn't work out then I'll sell it on eBay. I was leaning towards the White Bros. as it's gotten the best feedback everywhere I've asked, but it's rather pricey (maybe worth it too).

If and when I build this monster I'll post it here.

Yes, I also want to replace my rigid fork but I can't find any suspension for 700c. Fortunately, my KHS Flite 500 headset is 1 1/8" same as those MTB, therefore I use 26" on front! (yes with V-brake) and suddenly find plenty of suspension to choose for. Height and angle for my steering handlebar is quite the same (700c+rigid fork VS 26"+suspension fork Noleen Mega Air 75mm travel).

Cool.. I was thinking about doing that but was concerned about geometry issues, i.e., the top tube slope and rake/trail of the fork. Seems it could possibly screw up the handling and/or make it less stable. Any issues for that for you or did you do anything to compensate?

Hi bobalou,

Thank for asking. I just check the topic today.

"the top tube slope and rake/trail of the fork. Seems it could possibly screw up the handling and/or make it less stable. Any issues for that for you or did you do anything to compensate?"

You are right about this issue. When I first put in the Noleen, I felt very unstable because the fork trail was not the same. The fork I bought came with 100 mm travel which I had to adjust it to 75 mm. I had to alter the fork's air pressure to adjust issue of sag distance (am I using the right word?) depending on the rider's weight. After the adjustment, the top tube now lay parallel to the ground and riding is much more stable with suspension. The picture I showed was before I cut out 2 inches from the steerer tube. Good luck with your project. Have safe and fun riding.

I ordered the rock shox ruby just a couple days ago from chainreaction cycles. Good deal. £85 (guess they dropped the price). Really looking forward to using it in the long distance rides. Could have used it on the last one for certain!

They seem like a good shop too... prompt response to emails, professional.

Definitely NOT a weight weenie bike (approx. 13.5kg unfortunately!) but a very comfortable touring bike. I've used it so far the past month in a 200k brevet and 300k. http://www.dcrand.org/ Thinking about doing the 400k but not sure yet.

Anyway, thought I'd post a couple photo's .. thanks for the advice again. I bought the ruby front fork and it's great. Adds lots of comfort for all day riding. The lockout is absolutely necessary for climbing and works well. As i understand, it's an upgrade over the original design.

I'd say the only real highlights of this bike are the front fork and the Schmitt hub generator. Great for all night riding. A little heavy at .7kg but very low resistance. It powers two 3w front lights and a rear LED. I guess the other "feature" is the funny seat. It's what I call the "above 100 mile seat"! Yes it looks funny, like half a seat, but works great for all day riding.

CIAO!

Great bike Bobalou but what a seat! Can you really sit on that. Please let me see just the picture of the seat.

My bike evoled agin. I took the Noleen off and put on the carbon fork. The Reynolds Ouzu Comp felt much better than the old fork that came with the frame. I also changed front tyre from 23 to 25 which had a huge effect on absorbing the shock. That's OK as I use it for daily commuting to work and back home.

It takes a bit of getting used to (I modified it a bit)! Actually, it works GREAT with aerobars because it naturally pushes you forward a bit. Don't have a photo of it now but the website for this seat is http://www.spongywonder.com/



The right fork will make all the difference in the world, sounds like a good change.

I've pondered a tyre change but am sticking with the 23's for now. Actually , I've replaced this bike, as nice as it's been to me, with a Specialized Roubaix Comp. I'll post a pic sometime. I LOVE this bike. I hate to admit it, but I like it more then my Giant TCR. I wanted to just order a frameset but they were out of my size so bought the whole bike.

I've learned that suspension is a bit overrated for long distance touring. It helped some but suspension is better for something more "cobblestone" like or rough trails. Or maybe for a commute. For long-distance roads, it's vibration that's the killer.. and pedalling efficiency (lost some in suspension) is key also. The new bike is IMO the best I've ever ridden for that (vibration).

I did the Brevet series (for BMB) (see: http://www.rusa.com) and used the bike (Fuji) steel for the 200k and 300k. I used the specialized for the 400k and 600k and felt more comfortable on it, no doubt about it!

Thanks Babolou, I have some more questions about the seat.




I guess so



like shaving the sponge?




So if I use upright handle bar, the seat is not suitable?

Nope, actually .. for the long rides I ADD padding! I use some temperpedic material, very comfy. Never a saddle sore, even after 375 miles (20,000 feet of climbing) in the saddle (27.5 hours).



More upright bars actually work better if you are NOT using an aerobar. People that have problems with the seat, the seller suggests raising the bars and/or lowering the seat.

BUT, using aerobars is preferable period if saddle pain is an issue .. no matter what saddle you use. The simple reason being that you're taking weight off your rear and putting more on your forearms, in a more forward position. Matter of fact, when I start getting tired towards the end of a long ride, I feel I could just fall asleep right there, lying on the aerobars!!

It's funny, when I use that seat I get SO many comments and questions. I almost hate it for that reason! I used the seat once in europe and everywhere I went, it was "La selle .. " (or however it's pronounced). It's not for everyone either. I know someone that got one and they couldn't get used to it and returned it. The biggest loss is the balance you get from having a horn, you don't realize it until it's missing. I've adapted and had no problems. In fact, when I use a regular saddle I appreciate the extra balance and seating position. A regular saddle performs better. That's why I use two saddles.

Thanks, that's also what I thought when I first saw the saddle.