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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 11:31 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 20, 2016 7:30 am
Posts: 35
Morning fellas.

I wondered if anyone has ever had a situation where they are slower on a new bike and what could contribute to the lack of speed?

I had a hardtail Cube (3x9) and replaced 90% of the parts on it, got the weight down from 13.5kg to a 11kg bike and it was blistering, after 3 years on that I went and built my fully carbon 27.5er hardtail (2 x 10) and that's coming in at 9.3kg with more or less slick tyres on it.

For some reason this new bike doesn't feel as fast as my old Cube and I am wondering what it is that's holding me back and what I can do to get that familiar speed back?

Maybe it's an illusion, maybe the wheel has to travel a further distance and the 26er was spinning more? I don't know, maybe it's the gearing?

If anyone else has had anything like this happen or if you know of why this bike feels / is slower i.e. you can tell by the gearing or something I'd love to know what could be wrong.

Cheers :)


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 1:26 pm 
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Posts: 579
only way to tell is with a stop watch. Subjective feelings are notoriously inaccurate.


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Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 1:26 pm 


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 1:45 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 24, 2014 12:09 pm
Posts: 821
spud wrote:
only way to tell is with a stop watch. Subjective feelings are notoriously inaccurate.


Yep, but at our performance level, only the feeling you have on the bike really counts. Even it's faster, is the feeling tells you not, you don't really enjoy the bike. At least, that is how I look at it.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 1:55 pm 
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@ Digitalalert : difficult to tell without a build list of both bikes. It can be the components weight distribution such as wheels, but also other seating position on the bike, more or less stiff frameset / wheels. A too stiff frameset can feel dead if you don't have enough power, or otherwise, a light and weak frameset can give you the feeling to absord power.

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Current bikes:
Scott Addict Premium Disc 2018
Scott Addict Orica Greenedge 2015

Retired:
Canyon Endurace CF SLX 2016
Canyon Ultimate CF SLX 2013


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 4:36 pm 
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Cheers guys thanks for the input.

:thumbup:


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 8:37 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 28, 2014 6:52 pm
Posts: 1528
It's probably an illusion. Do you have times on Strava segments to compare?

I had a frame with a very stiff rear end. When the road was as smooth as glass, it felt faster than any bike I've ever had. When the road wasn't so great, I was hating this bike because it was beating me up. I had to get rid of it but I still sort of miss it.

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Last edited by AJS914 on Sat Nov 19, 2016 4:55 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2016 2:22 am 
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Posts: 35
I do have some times saved still but I was a couple stone lighter then.

I tell you what I have changed and that's the seat height and I noticed an immediate speed increase. It was borderline too high before, now I'm proper on my tip toes an it feels too high for a mountain bike, can barely get on and off the thing lol.

I'm not sure if the carbon frame has anything to do with it.

Appreciate the info though guys :)


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2016 10:49 am 
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Joined: Fri May 25, 2007 6:43 pm
Posts: 3314
So you've mucked around with a position that probably wasn't right in the first place (by the sounds of it anyway) and feel slower.

Either replicate the original position. Or just get your position sorted out properly.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2016 11:15 pm 
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Lighter bike and wheels do have less inertia so on flat, steady ride it could be slower.


Last edited by gootchio on Sat Nov 19, 2016 11:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2016 11:17 pm 
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Ups wrong edit.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2016 12:34 am 
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in my opinion sub-optimal geometry is the most likely culprit. after that it could be mental. if its a very small difference wheel and tire selection might be at issue.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2016 8:32 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 06, 2016 9:49 am
Posts: 30
I recommend going with higher volume tires (or if you liked your old model tires maybe those). And consider a dropper post. I know both those options add weight, but they add a ton of speed and enjoyment too, IMHO. But ultimately if speed is your main concern its time to get out the stopwatch and do some side-by-side comparisons with your old bike.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2016 5:37 pm 
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
Semi-slick tires, unless you ride nothing but rail trails and dirt roads, probably aren't faster than "real" MTB tires on actual MTB trails.

Saving a few watts in Crr vs. cornering traction. That time spent braking with those semi-slick tires adds up.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2016 7:07 pm 
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LeDuke wrote:
Semi-slick tires, unless you ride nothing but rail trails and dirt roads, probably aren't faster than "real" MTB tires on actual MTB trails.

That was my second thought.

My first thought is that 'It feels slower' is, in mountain biking far more than road, an incredibly vague and nebulous statement. It feels slower how? Sprinting? Climbing? Descending? Cornering? Holding speed on smooth surfaces? Carrying speed over rough? On what sort of terrain do you ride? On what sort of surface?

Even with that info it could be difficult to give an accurate answer, without it no-one is doing anything but stabbing wildly in the dark.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2016 7:37 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 9:39 pm
Posts: 1064
mattr wrote:
So you've mucked around with a position that probably wasn't right in the first place (by the sounds of it anyway) and feel slower.

Either replicate the original position. Or just get your position sorted out properly.


this. i felt slower on a new built bike...only to find that the position wasn't quite dialed in.
5mm here, 2mm there. seemed like it made a difference.

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Posted: Sun Nov 20, 2016 7:37 pm 


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