Now that I've built it up I have to say this is one nice bicycle frame.
Trek Emonda SL Size 60 H2 fit
Frame, fork and hardware
Trek Emonda SL Frameset (excluding rubber cover for duotrap sensor and chaincatcher).....1,222g
Seat mast topper and saddle clamp hardware (comes with frame and necessary.....154
Duotrap S Sensor (including speed and cadence magnets and battery)......24
Trek Campagnolo BB adapter Kit (PartNumber 407383).......20
Fork (Uncut 398g - 5g cut = 393).....393
Fork Compression Plug......28
Headset bearings, compression ring and headset cover......64
Stem spacers (3mm red anodized alloy below stem, 5mm carbon and top cap and bolt above stem)....16
BB cable guide (negligible, threw away stock guide and used my own tubing).....0
Subtotal: 1,921
Groupset (and miscellaneous parts and addons)
Campagnolo Super Record
Rear Derailleur.....158
Front Derailleur (less fixing bolt since K-Edge bolt was used instead).....68
K-Edge Chain Catcher and hardware....14
Rear brake - Dual Pivot.....144
Front brake (Dual Pivot) with Trek Fork bolt.....152
53/39 Ti Crankset 175mm.....602
Ergo Shifters..... 334
Record Chain (cut).....226
Cables and housing actually used on bike.....152
Subtotal: 1,850
Front Wheel
Campy Bora Ultra 35 (2015).....500
Veloflex Carbon 23mm w 30mm valve extension.....258
Skewer.....56
Total Front Wheel Weight:814
Rear Wheel
Campy Bora Ultra 35 (2015).....676
Campy SR Cassette 12/27.....210
Skewer.....64
Veloflex Carbon 23mm w 30mm valve extension.....262
Total Rear Wheel Weight: 1,212
Total weight of wheels, tires, cassette and skewers.....2,026
Weight of wheelset alone (no skewers, cassette or tires) for comparison to other wheelsets.....1,176
Finishing Kit
Handlebars Deda Newton Shallow 44cm (outside to outside).....264
Stem Deda Zero 100 - 130mm (with bolts).....138
Bar Tape Fizik Performance 3mm.....82
Saddle Specialized Romin Pro 143mm.....158
Pedals Dura-Ace Carbon.....250
Water bottle cages/bolts (Arundel Dave-O Oil slick matte).....68
Finishing kit subtotal: 960
Scale rounding errors from rounding up on individual weights ....(27)
Total Build Weight (Actual fully built weight as pictured above).....6,730
Other stuff I ride with…
Garmin Edge 800..... 98
K-Edge Computer mount (XL Pro)..... 36
2 Camelbak waterbottles at 70g each..... 140
Lezyne Road Drive Pump (Medium) and mounting bracket..... 130
I really enjoyed building this bike. I think it's really well designed with really pleasing lines. With lugged frames, be they carbon or alloy, I almost always prefer a more traditional frame with a horizontal, or close to it, top tube etc. But with molded frames, I feel exactly the opposite (apart from tt bikes which I feel should always have a horizontal top tube cuz it's more aero and just looks badass).
All my bikes now sport the Specailzied Romin Pro Saddles. They fit me well. And the geo of the TREK places the seat post almost dab smack in the middle of the rails for me, which I like. I measure my saddle position as follows. I place a hard non bendable flat piece of something (in my case that's a t-shaped cut out from a fine cutting board I had in the kitchen) on top of the saddle from the back to the front. I have a digital level I place on top of that. I measure saddle height from the center of the BB to the bottom edge of that board across the saddle. Depending on the dip in the saddle, there will be some daylight in between but I feel I can get an accurate measure every time this way. In my case with my bikes the seat tubes all follow the line from bottom bracket on up, so I follow that line to the straight edge.
Height: 809mm
Saddle tilt: 2.3 degrees down (in contrast, a for a level seated position with a Selle Italia SLR saddle I set it at 0.0 degrees, dead flat).
Saddle setback: 95mm
So you can see that all these measurements are really specific to the saddle I choose and if I change saddles I go through the whole process again to find my perfect spot. A little tedious but worth it to get this starting point right.
I route the cables such that they cross over through the downtube. This provides a much smoother line and keeps the cables from rubbing the headtube. The downtube is so large that there is no rubbing whatsoever on any tube walls to create noise and the bottom bracket guides provide a very smooth transition upon exiting... oh, and in the pic below I have already changed out the tape from the original build. I originally tried the Fizik 3mm Performance tape, and it is just too rubbery feeling for me. I know some like that feel, but I prefer a more "leathery" feel and hence use a smoother tape but with the Fizik gel underneath it.
The above pic warrants a bit of discussion. The grooves for the cable guide (which is super thin and just fits right in with no screws) are really well done. I opted to use some Teflon tubing which is not the flimsy sheathing that is often used. I stumbled upon this stuff at a little company that makes chemical drip machines (or something like that) and they use it like a builder would use pvc piping in plumbing projects. It's pretty heavy duty and doesn't compress with your fingers and a derailleur cable just glides through it effortlessly. I use a couple pieces long enough to just stick up into the frame, thus protecting the cables from all the road grunge, etc., and, sometimes sticky sports drinks that drip down there.
The DuoTrap S speed and cadence sensor is a really nice touch as well... hides right in the left chainstay picks up both cadence and speed. It's super clean.
I tried all manner of wheels with this, and found that an older Campy Neutron (with the asymmetric spoke pattern) would not clear the sensor. The spokes would not clear it due to 1) being a low profile rim with the non drive side spokes entering the rim at an offset of center) and 2) campy hub with a nice wide bracing angle. That combo just will not work in this setup. Everything else I tried... no problem. Although I am using a very thin rare earth magnet that I glue to the spokes. Here's a pic from below (bike upside down)...
The cable routing throughout this bike is very very nice. One thing that is different than most manufacturers designs is the entry of the rear brake housing in the top tube. It enters from the right (drive) side, whereas on most bikes you will find this entry point on the left side of the top tube. It's done like this to avoid any contact with the shaped top tube. I do prefer the entry on the left side since the housing doesn't rub on the frame. In this case there is no avoiding some brake housing rub on the head tube, but the line through the top tube is clean and smooth. It's a compromise that works functionally and I don't have a problem with at all...
and upon exit...
Ok... I've got tons more I can talk about with this frame, but for now I just want to get this posted. I took it on a long fast group ride on Saturday and shocked most people that I wasn't on one of my Colnagos. I think I'll do a head to head comparison of the two. It's that good, and you can get a small fleet of them for the price of a Colnago. I'll have more to say about that in the future as I really compare the two ride qualities and handling characteristics. I understand Trek has already raised the price of the frame alone by $500 since I got this in October. I got the complete bike because 1) an SL5 was in stock and I didn't care what groupset it had since I would be stripping it anyway, and 2) I like the white simple paint scheme best of all their paint schemes and knew the Campy group would look good against it. Interesting that TREK has since dropped a Campy build from their choices so if you did want to go campy now, you're on your own as it's not a choice in the Project One lineup.
Enjoy and feel free to pepper me with questions and comments. I'm sure you've noticed that I've got the new 2015 Bora Ultra 35 Tubulars on this build (at the moment) and am doing as much a test of these wheels as I am the frame. Ultimately though, this particular bike will have full fenders and be decked out for the worst in weather, short of snow, etc.
Enjoy!
