Not like you can just reach down and flip the lever on conventional setup brakes..haha..
New BMC Aero frame TMR01
Moderator: robbosmans
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Zigmeister
- Posts: 938
- Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2011 8:09 pm
As far as wheel changes and affecting the brakes, you can always put a barrel adjuster on..that is what the pro teams do as this photo shows.
Not like you can just reach down and flip the lever on conventional setup brakes..haha..
Not like you can just reach down and flip the lever on conventional setup brakes..haha..
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dereksmalls
- Posts: 2305
- Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 9:20 pm
- Location: New Zealand
Or run Campag with the release on the levers instead of the calipers
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I got to ride one last week for about 30-60 minutes:
I have been a big fan if this bike design-wise since I saw it many moths ago first online in BMC preview then in person but never got to ride it until recently.
My honest opinion is it is brutally stiff, slippery fast and a blast ti ride bt I would not want it to be my first or only ride. My other bikes are a LOOK 595 and Moots compact SL (both of which I think are the best bikes I've ever ridden... but I may be biased..) The BMC would be a fantastic 3rd bike (!!) as it is fast, super-agile (so stiff it turns on a dime and handles descents like a rocket) and the brakes are super once they grip you will stop, they almost felt like hydraulic (compared to my Campy Skeletons and M5's they were less modulated but had way more bite once they bit)
The TMR01 did not have nearly the subtly and refined feel of the 595 nor the snappy all-day comfort of the Moots, neither of which I have ever found wanting in the power/stiffness area though the Moots might be considered flexy by some more muscular or heavy than I... The BMC is as stiff and direct as it looks, just pure power transfer to the rear wheels and super stiff front end that points where you want to go and gets there in a double. It just feels like it requires a motor to be happy, my mediocre legs would never push it to its limit though I'd happily suffer trying to do it. It REQUIRES a comfy saddle--- absolutely not my choice for +4 hour training rides, not even close. The 595 and Moots are all day capable. Saddle supplied was Fizik Arione and I must admit it converted me, I have been on Sellle Italia Kit Carbonio's with cutouts and theyve been fine, minimal and light, but the Arione was downright plush yet supportive and lovely. When I have an extra $350 I mat get one for the Look.
Shifting (Di2) was crisp and solid given the frames stiffness there was no wiggle, but the bars were painful after a few minutes given the ultra rigidity of the front end, and the ultra stiff fork felt a bit wooden and clunky at times, though at high speeds it was reassuring. I never thought the Look HSC6 or Enve 2.0 were in anyway soft, but damn... A flexible bar or some way of mitigating this ultra stiff fork would be a necessity for me on any ride over 30 minutes or so.
So to make a long story short, the BMC felt really fast and tight, ultra stiff and thus I'd recommend flexible bars (the front end was painfully stiff after 30 minutes) and a great saddle, then its great for sustained intense efforts and sprints for sure, descents and high speed accelerations and joyrides. Maybe a race day frame for sure that would be tempting to ride all the time given its capacity for acceleration and the way it held speed (noticeably and impressively( but ultimately would be a but painful I think if not set up perfectly so.
So iI guess what I'm trying to sa is if I can afford a 3rd bike next year I would get it
but my 595 and SL are not going anywhere anytime. When I got back on the 595 I was relieved, it felt somehow more like a "real" bike, it sort of disappeared underneath me and handled everything with a smoothness that did not call attention to itself the way the BMC did. The TMR01 was always very apparent, not necessarily bad, just that it did not have subtly or refinement, just pure strength and rigidity. Like I said a really fun 2 or 3rd bike or race machine for sure.
I have been a big fan if this bike design-wise since I saw it many moths ago first online in BMC preview then in person but never got to ride it until recently.
My honest opinion is it is brutally stiff, slippery fast and a blast ti ride bt I would not want it to be my first or only ride. My other bikes are a LOOK 595 and Moots compact SL (both of which I think are the best bikes I've ever ridden... but I may be biased..) The BMC would be a fantastic 3rd bike (!!) as it is fast, super-agile (so stiff it turns on a dime and handles descents like a rocket) and the brakes are super once they grip you will stop, they almost felt like hydraulic (compared to my Campy Skeletons and M5's they were less modulated but had way more bite once they bit)
The TMR01 did not have nearly the subtly and refined feel of the 595 nor the snappy all-day comfort of the Moots, neither of which I have ever found wanting in the power/stiffness area though the Moots might be considered flexy by some more muscular or heavy than I... The BMC is as stiff and direct as it looks, just pure power transfer to the rear wheels and super stiff front end that points where you want to go and gets there in a double. It just feels like it requires a motor to be happy, my mediocre legs would never push it to its limit though I'd happily suffer trying to do it. It REQUIRES a comfy saddle--- absolutely not my choice for +4 hour training rides, not even close. The 595 and Moots are all day capable. Saddle supplied was Fizik Arione and I must admit it converted me, I have been on Sellle Italia Kit Carbonio's with cutouts and theyve been fine, minimal and light, but the Arione was downright plush yet supportive and lovely. When I have an extra $350 I mat get one for the Look.
Shifting (Di2) was crisp and solid given the frames stiffness there was no wiggle, but the bars were painful after a few minutes given the ultra rigidity of the front end, and the ultra stiff fork felt a bit wooden and clunky at times, though at high speeds it was reassuring. I never thought the Look HSC6 or Enve 2.0 were in anyway soft, but damn... A flexible bar or some way of mitigating this ultra stiff fork would be a necessity for me on any ride over 30 minutes or so.
So to make a long story short, the BMC felt really fast and tight, ultra stiff and thus I'd recommend flexible bars (the front end was painfully stiff after 30 minutes) and a great saddle, then its great for sustained intense efforts and sprints for sure, descents and high speed accelerations and joyrides. Maybe a race day frame for sure that would be tempting to ride all the time given its capacity for acceleration and the way it held speed (noticeably and impressively( but ultimately would be a but painful I think if not set up perfectly so.
So iI guess what I'm trying to sa is if I can afford a 3rd bike next year I would get it
but my 595 and SL are not going anywhere anytime. When I got back on the 595 I was relieved, it felt somehow more like a "real" bike, it sort of disappeared underneath me and handled everything with a smoothness that did not call attention to itself the way the BMC did. The TMR01 was always very apparent, not necessarily bad, just that it did not have subtly or refinement, just pure strength and rigidity. Like I said a really fun 2 or 3rd bike or race machine for sure.My wallet is the lightest thing on my bike.
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Gearhead65
- Posts: 110
- Joined: Sat Jan 23, 2010 1:24 am
- Location: Evansville, IN, USA
I've been riding a TMR01 for a couple months. I love the bike. Brakes are so-so...adjusted them with the shims so I do not need to release to remove wheels. We'll see how that goes for the long term. 
I did crash this bike a few weeks ago and broke the fork up by the front fairing (in addition to my collarbone and a couple ribs). I guess if there is a design weak point it could be up in the area where the fork fairing hits the side of the frame if it is turned to far. If the fairing were integrated into the front brake cover instead of the fork, it could be a low(er) cost replacement item. (But what in cycling is 'low cost'?)
Running with SRAM, but switching to Di2. It's a bear to get the shift housings through that frame.
I did crash this bike a few weeks ago and broke the fork up by the front fairing (in addition to my collarbone and a couple ribs). I guess if there is a design weak point it could be up in the area where the fork fairing hits the side of the frame if it is turned to far. If the fairing were integrated into the front brake cover instead of the fork, it could be a low(er) cost replacement item. (But what in cycling is 'low cost'?)
Running with SRAM, but switching to Di2. It's a bear to get the shift housings through that frame.
2015 Specialized Crux Pro
2013 BMC TMR01 custom build
2013 Cannondale F-Series 29'er, Carbon 3
2012 Cannondale CAAD10-1 custom build, 14.06 lbs
1980 Palo Alto custom build
2013 BMC TMR01 custom build
2013 Cannondale F-Series 29'er, Carbon 3
2012 Cannondale CAAD10-1 custom build, 14.06 lbs
1980 Palo Alto custom build
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prendrefeu
- Posts: 8580
- Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2007 10:32 pm
- Location: Glendale / Los Angeles, California
- Contact:
Compared to others, it isn't that "ridiculously" priced.
A Pinarello Dogma 65.1 with Ultegra Mechanical comes in over $7k USD.
Also made in Asia.
A Pinarello Dogma 65.1 with Ultegra Mechanical comes in over $7k USD.
Also made in Asia.
Exp001 || Other projects in the works.
Just got one myself.. Week post a deeper ride Rupert later, but my saddle time points to this being a more muted ride than my develop r3sl.
I weight 80kg so I am finding lighter riders feel the frame is harsh but guys my weight feel bumps are muted.
My ride on a Venge was harsher, and the giant propel even harsher than that.
I also felt the ride was very stable... Not a quick steering bike by my standards...
These days 25% off is easily obtained in the us.
I weight 80kg so I am finding lighter riders feel the frame is harsh but guys my weight feel bumps are muted.
My ride on a Venge was harsher, and the giant propel even harsher than that.
I also felt the ride was very stable... Not a quick steering bike by my standards...
These days 25% off is easily obtained in the us.
Had mine for 7 months, used it for short rides, long rides, training loops and some crit races. I’ve done over 5000 miles on it on, and its really a dream.
Except…. The brakes. They are powerful and modulate fairly well, but because of their non adjustability on the road, they can be a pain, also getting them set up to work with various width wheels, (such as zipp firecrests and c24’s (25.6 and 21.7mm width rims), can be time consuming… but that’s really minor. The rear brakes work perfectly well even after a British autumn/ winter!
In terms of general riding, its faster and you can use the power available in your legs more than the giant propel and s3/5 over variable condition roads, simply because its less jumpy around the surrey hills and roads renowned for their variable surface, like hungry hill and others. On the flat roads into Windsor and out to Henley, it mile munches very well and maintaining speed is noticeably easy. In terms of handling, its neutral, it corners extremely well and on descents its extremely rapid and feels planted on good surfaces as well as bad...
If you were picking holes in it you’d say it climbs only 8/10, as the frame is slightly heavier than the latest ultra lightweight road frames.
Its comfortable most of the time, though I think on occasions that I need to fine tune my position on the bike. The guys at BMC have already had my feedback, but it is mechanically reasonably complex, compared to most other road bikes. You need a 13mm spanner to adjust the seat position, and a 25mm star key to adjust the height of the saddle. And a magnet to pick up the block in the saddle when you’ve adjusted it and the thing falls down the seatpost! Also the front brake fairings bolts are very prone to wear (as they are tiny hex threads), so I’d buy some spares!
The outstanding points on it are:
Power transmission over all surfaces
Sprinting.
Ability to maintain speed.
Descending.
Neutral handling.
The power of the inbuilt brakes.
It looks amazing.
The negatives:
Brake modulation.
Not the most comfy bike, though significantly better than most aero bikes I’ve ridden.
Brake adjustment is fiddly.
Mechanical complexity.
Not quite as good up hills as the ultra-lightweight specific climbers bikes.
Except…. The brakes. They are powerful and modulate fairly well, but because of their non adjustability on the road, they can be a pain, also getting them set up to work with various width wheels, (such as zipp firecrests and c24’s (25.6 and 21.7mm width rims), can be time consuming… but that’s really minor. The rear brakes work perfectly well even after a British autumn/ winter!
In terms of general riding, its faster and you can use the power available in your legs more than the giant propel and s3/5 over variable condition roads, simply because its less jumpy around the surrey hills and roads renowned for their variable surface, like hungry hill and others. On the flat roads into Windsor and out to Henley, it mile munches very well and maintaining speed is noticeably easy. In terms of handling, its neutral, it corners extremely well and on descents its extremely rapid and feels planted on good surfaces as well as bad...
If you were picking holes in it you’d say it climbs only 8/10, as the frame is slightly heavier than the latest ultra lightweight road frames.
Its comfortable most of the time, though I think on occasions that I need to fine tune my position on the bike. The guys at BMC have already had my feedback, but it is mechanically reasonably complex, compared to most other road bikes. You need a 13mm spanner to adjust the seat position, and a 25mm star key to adjust the height of the saddle. And a magnet to pick up the block in the saddle when you’ve adjusted it and the thing falls down the seatpost! Also the front brake fairings bolts are very prone to wear (as they are tiny hex threads), so I’d buy some spares!
The outstanding points on it are:
Power transmission over all surfaces
Sprinting.
Ability to maintain speed.
Descending.
Neutral handling.
The power of the inbuilt brakes.
It looks amazing.
The negatives:
Brake modulation.
Not the most comfy bike, though significantly better than most aero bikes I’ve ridden.
Brake adjustment is fiddly.
Mechanical complexity.
Not quite as good up hills as the ultra-lightweight specific climbers bikes.
I found on the test-ride I took the saddle wouldn't stay in place kept sliding down no matter how we tightened it - didn't want to strip it tho, maybe its jet cause it was a tester frame so maybe worn out... not sure but Id hate to have an issue w the seat clamp section given the design seems hard to fix/deal with if it became an issue over time
My wallet is the lightest thing on my bike.
After putting some more rides in, some longer ones, and in some strong sustained winds (20mph sustained), some more feedback:
RIDE:
* the bike feels magically alive! Like some of the best old steel bikes there is a delightful vibration in the bars and through the seat that feels even better when you're leaning into the bike and making tracks. Great feel. I have missed this "live wire" vibration for some time.
* bad pavement, chip-seal, and general roughness are muted to a great degree (running 25mm tubulars on zipp 404s with ~85psi, and specialized Romin Saddle - I weigh 82kg-ish).By comparison my '08 Cervelo R3SL with the same wheels brought out the bad pavement feel much more unpleasantly.
* Test rides on a specialized venge felt slightly rougher, slightly faster handling, but no magic in the frame feel.
* test ride on a s5 - much less muted ride, weird riding-a-board feel, floppy front end. .. no room for 25mm tires - yikes.
* big bumps require one to get out of the saddle - the bike is not forgiving over really sharp impacts or large bumps, slightly more unforgiving than my other race bikes (Look, cervelo r3sl, cervelo r3, cervelo r5 ) I have ridden lots. This is weird because the small stuff is very muted, but the big stuff hurts. The cervelo "r" bikes seemed to float over large impacts, but bother ore than the bmc tmr01 with rough roads, this one is the opposite.
* the "muted" feel - or "planted" feel - makes it feel really confident over rough road, so that you feel that power is getting to the ground.
* the handling is neutral to slow, very relaxed and stable compared to say a r3sl, which was my daily driver for a long while. The bike is very balanced, and no problem riding in a pack etc, but doesn't require much attention to keep going. By comparison the Giant propel was twitchy, and my cervelo r bikes also felt twitchy. This kind of reminds me of the great neutral-to-slow handling my 90's-era Trek (5900 OCLV carbon) frame had.
* it is a BLAST to put down sustained power on this bike, and easy to get into rhythm, as the natural vibrations of the frame are compelling, and you can feel and hear the speed pick up. On a recent ride a guy jumped on my wheel and said my bike "sounds cool - what is that?"
* People keep saying its stiff, but most good frames are stiff enough these days, and under serious power most wheels and bars flex so much that I can never tell when I am really going nuts in a sprint what is flexing. (OK - I am heavier than most at 82kg and pedal harder ~1500w during sprints than most to make up for that, so I haven't yet ridden a bike/wheelset that doesn't flex enough under power to rub the brakes). After almost 30 years riding, I know this frame feels stiffer than my old 80s-era steel frames, but is stiff in different directions than my r3sl. For instance my r3sl used to jump in the air and sideways sometimes during hard sprints full-out (during the initial acceleration). I know this is my bad form, but the bmc doesn't do this. When honking up a steep hill, the r3 also used to slip the rear tire if I wasn't careful to lean back, but the BMC also doesn't slip. Perhaps this is the weighting, but I also think that longer stays and a smaller rear triangle without a brake bridge may help the bike flex vertically - that is just guesswork, but it does feel good.
* High speed (up to 60mph) and low speed alike feel great - bike was always stable and handling relaxed.
* no problem riding no-hands even in blustery conditions. The bike has a very good centering feel, and easy to control rate of lean.
* cross-winds of 20mph saw me leaning less than other bikes I've owned, and never felt that the bike with 404s was hard to handle, or had that weird front-wheel-as-a-kite I've sometimes felt when the front end seems to pick up more wind.
AERO:
* your guess is as good as mine. My impression is that there are so many other factors that I am OK being wrong, but because I've ridden so long with a power meter on the same roads with the same clothing, gruppo, wheels, etc that I think I am seeing a consistent 10-20w drop at the same speeds over my previous daily driver, the r3sl.
* I did choose zipp vuka sprint bars, went nuts on my cable routing, used a garmin integra stem, and also have a behind the saddle bottle mount now, so I am guessing that the 20w is not a fluke.
BUILD:
* the front brake rubs my wheel when I sprint, even if I have zero cable tension, because they don't open wide enough. I may have to completely remove the washers and see what I get, but I think the brake pad holder is the issue. . .maybe time to take out a dremel.
* I put rotor power cranks with a 30mm spindle into this 41mm BB using the enduro BB - 4130. Rotor sells the same BB. It has a lot of drag I believe because even with no washers the cranks place some lateral preload (bad ;-( ).
* cable routing was a real bear. Took way too long, but their video was very helpful.
* I used zipp vuka sprint bars with internal cable routing This made the routing work worse.
* I also used the garmin integra stem - not sure I would do it again - since the steepest stem they make is a -10, the garmin mount goes up at an angle! Why bother making that stem and omit the -17 110 size? Why? -17 would have been amazing with this ~73 head angle.
*brakes are really sensitive to cable housing length, which can cause the noodle-side arm to move little and the other to move a lot. I understand getting a flexy noodle solves much of this, but I have too little interest in that to open the thing up again.
* brake feel is great - better than my sram red brakes in power and modulation, as well as lever feel. Totally usable to me.
* Tour magazine says this frame loses 3-4 watts with frame mounted bottles/cages, so I went a little tri (I am embarrassed to admit, as a life long roadie) and used behind the saddle bottles. I used x-labs, but I really want torhans to make a aero-20 like http://www.torhans.com/index.html#Anchor-AERO-49575 road-bike handlebar aero drink setup!!!
LOOKS:
* Looks are wonderful - this is the best looking bike I've seen in a long while, esp when built up right
CONCLUSION:
* happy I chose this frame - magic vibration in this frame
* handling is neutral which means I can ride longer more relaxed, trustworthy steed with no bad manners.
* inspiring looks, especially when coated with road grime!
RIDE:
* the bike feels magically alive! Like some of the best old steel bikes there is a delightful vibration in the bars and through the seat that feels even better when you're leaning into the bike and making tracks. Great feel. I have missed this "live wire" vibration for some time.
* bad pavement, chip-seal, and general roughness are muted to a great degree (running 25mm tubulars on zipp 404s with ~85psi, and specialized Romin Saddle - I weigh 82kg-ish).By comparison my '08 Cervelo R3SL with the same wheels brought out the bad pavement feel much more unpleasantly.
* Test rides on a specialized venge felt slightly rougher, slightly faster handling, but no magic in the frame feel.
* test ride on a s5 - much less muted ride, weird riding-a-board feel, floppy front end. .. no room for 25mm tires - yikes.
* big bumps require one to get out of the saddle - the bike is not forgiving over really sharp impacts or large bumps, slightly more unforgiving than my other race bikes (Look, cervelo r3sl, cervelo r3, cervelo r5 ) I have ridden lots. This is weird because the small stuff is very muted, but the big stuff hurts. The cervelo "r" bikes seemed to float over large impacts, but bother ore than the bmc tmr01 with rough roads, this one is the opposite.
* the "muted" feel - or "planted" feel - makes it feel really confident over rough road, so that you feel that power is getting to the ground.
* the handling is neutral to slow, very relaxed and stable compared to say a r3sl, which was my daily driver for a long while. The bike is very balanced, and no problem riding in a pack etc, but doesn't require much attention to keep going. By comparison the Giant propel was twitchy, and my cervelo r bikes also felt twitchy. This kind of reminds me of the great neutral-to-slow handling my 90's-era Trek (5900 OCLV carbon) frame had.
* it is a BLAST to put down sustained power on this bike, and easy to get into rhythm, as the natural vibrations of the frame are compelling, and you can feel and hear the speed pick up. On a recent ride a guy jumped on my wheel and said my bike "sounds cool - what is that?"
* People keep saying its stiff, but most good frames are stiff enough these days, and under serious power most wheels and bars flex so much that I can never tell when I am really going nuts in a sprint what is flexing. (OK - I am heavier than most at 82kg and pedal harder ~1500w during sprints than most to make up for that, so I haven't yet ridden a bike/wheelset that doesn't flex enough under power to rub the brakes). After almost 30 years riding, I know this frame feels stiffer than my old 80s-era steel frames, but is stiff in different directions than my r3sl. For instance my r3sl used to jump in the air and sideways sometimes during hard sprints full-out (during the initial acceleration). I know this is my bad form, but the bmc doesn't do this. When honking up a steep hill, the r3 also used to slip the rear tire if I wasn't careful to lean back, but the BMC also doesn't slip. Perhaps this is the weighting, but I also think that longer stays and a smaller rear triangle without a brake bridge may help the bike flex vertically - that is just guesswork, but it does feel good.
* High speed (up to 60mph) and low speed alike feel great - bike was always stable and handling relaxed.
* no problem riding no-hands even in blustery conditions. The bike has a very good centering feel, and easy to control rate of lean.
* cross-winds of 20mph saw me leaning less than other bikes I've owned, and never felt that the bike with 404s was hard to handle, or had that weird front-wheel-as-a-kite I've sometimes felt when the front end seems to pick up more wind.
AERO:
* your guess is as good as mine. My impression is that there are so many other factors that I am OK being wrong, but because I've ridden so long with a power meter on the same roads with the same clothing, gruppo, wheels, etc that I think I am seeing a consistent 10-20w drop at the same speeds over my previous daily driver, the r3sl.
* I did choose zipp vuka sprint bars, went nuts on my cable routing, used a garmin integra stem, and also have a behind the saddle bottle mount now, so I am guessing that the 20w is not a fluke.
BUILD:
* the front brake rubs my wheel when I sprint, even if I have zero cable tension, because they don't open wide enough. I may have to completely remove the washers and see what I get, but I think the brake pad holder is the issue. . .maybe time to take out a dremel.
* I put rotor power cranks with a 30mm spindle into this 41mm BB using the enduro BB - 4130. Rotor sells the same BB. It has a lot of drag I believe because even with no washers the cranks place some lateral preload (bad ;-( ).
* cable routing was a real bear. Took way too long, but their video was very helpful.
* I used zipp vuka sprint bars with internal cable routing This made the routing work worse.
* I also used the garmin integra stem - not sure I would do it again - since the steepest stem they make is a -10, the garmin mount goes up at an angle! Why bother making that stem and omit the -17 110 size? Why? -17 would have been amazing with this ~73 head angle.
*brakes are really sensitive to cable housing length, which can cause the noodle-side arm to move little and the other to move a lot. I understand getting a flexy noodle solves much of this, but I have too little interest in that to open the thing up again.
* brake feel is great - better than my sram red brakes in power and modulation, as well as lever feel. Totally usable to me.
* Tour magazine says this frame loses 3-4 watts with frame mounted bottles/cages, so I went a little tri (I am embarrassed to admit, as a life long roadie) and used behind the saddle bottles. I used x-labs, but I really want torhans to make a aero-20 like http://www.torhans.com/index.html#Anchor-AERO-49575 road-bike handlebar aero drink setup!!!
LOOKS:
* Looks are wonderful - this is the best looking bike I've seen in a long while, esp when built up right
CONCLUSION:
* happy I chose this frame - magic vibration in this frame
* handling is neutral which means I can ride longer more relaxed, trustworthy steed with no bad manners.
* inspiring looks, especially when coated with road grime!
Anyone ever use Nokon or similar linked brake housing on a TMR01?
I see you have to run traditional housing through the frame to the rear brake and wondering if anyone has run full Nokon through frame? Or alternatively, traditional housing inside the frame with Nokon only on the outside?
Will also have the barrel adjusters to contend with. Are those doable with Nokon?
I hate the look and additional weight of the barrel adjusters and am curious if anyone has any experience without them on a TMR01?
BMC manual recommends and team uses the Shimano SM-CA70 barrel adjuster. I see there is a DA level barrel adjuster SM-CB90. Anyone have experience with either? The SM-CB90 seems to be a bit bulkier, which I don't necessarily want hanging off the front of this otherwise clean and streamline frame.
Would ultimately love to be able to get away with Nokon and no barrel adjusters.
I see you have to run traditional housing through the frame to the rear brake and wondering if anyone has run full Nokon through frame? Or alternatively, traditional housing inside the frame with Nokon only on the outside?
Will also have the barrel adjusters to contend with. Are those doable with Nokon?
I hate the look and additional weight of the barrel adjusters and am curious if anyone has any experience without them on a TMR01?
BMC manual recommends and team uses the Shimano SM-CA70 barrel adjuster. I see there is a DA level barrel adjuster SM-CB90. Anyone have experience with either? The SM-CB90 seems to be a bit bulkier, which I don't necessarily want hanging off the front of this otherwise clean and streamline frame.
Would ultimately love to be able to get away with Nokon and no barrel adjusters.
Switched from a Venge to a TMR01 for the race season this year. Been loving it, other than being a bit harsh on rough roads. A very fast bike.
I use Aican Bungarus brake housing to save weight. They are awesome, but if you Nokon or Aican make sure you put the foam padding over the housing or it rattles on big bumps. I use the provided small barrel adjusters- you will need a minimal adjuster unless you don't change wheels ever. Don't use the Shimano quick release adjusters unless you have narrow rims and wide tires. They are huge, ugly, and heavy. 3 strikes for any weight weenie.
I use Aican Bungarus brake housing to save weight. They are awesome, but if you Nokon or Aican make sure you put the foam padding over the housing or it rattles on big bumps. I use the provided small barrel adjusters- you will need a minimal adjuster unless you don't change wheels ever. Don't use the Shimano quick release adjusters unless you have narrow rims and wide tires. They are huge, ugly, and heavy. 3 strikes for any weight weenie.
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mulletmaster
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Sun Feb 16, 2014 1:10 pm
Having serious problems with the brakes on these guys. I have fairly narrow carbon rims and mavic kysiriums and a barrel adjuster just about adjusts between the two however...no matter what I do the front shroud slightly fouls the brake so the right arm sticks when it's in place. I've tried everything but can't remedy it and have resorted to running with the shgroud off which is far from ideal.
It also seems to eat front pads quicker than any other bike I've had!
Any suggestions?
It also seems to eat front pads quicker than any other bike I've had!
Any suggestions?
