Xiamen Far Sports Experiences

[huguest]

Does anyone have any experience with the Farsports 24 carbon clincher. The weight seems great at 360 grams per rim and wheelset at 1199 grams. The one I was looking at is laced up with the ED hubs. I do live in a hilly region and do quite a bit of climbing. I have had 2 sets of the 38's without any issues, but remember someone saying that the smaller rims do not get rid of heat build up as fast. Any help is appreciated. This is the model I was looking to purchase.

[b]24mmx23mm Clincher with Edhub Model:FSC24CM-23 Light Weight

I bought a set of those exact wheels in the spring. I have about 1000 km on them and am very pleased with the result. The wheels are very light. Not much climbing here (so ne huge descent either), but their feel is great. My only negative would be braking, but this could be only because they are carbon clinchers (used to have alu rims). I have the FarSport black pads.

[eric]

Try the blue pads. They generate more braking force than the black "ceramic" though some people think they are grabby.

The amount of heat put into a rim depends on the braking you're doing. The rim shape has nothing to do with it. With an aluminium rim, more rim material means a larger heat sink pulling heat away from the brake track. But CF does not conduct heat well so that is less of an advantage for deeper CF rims.

I do a lot of climbing as well. For climbing races that also have descents I feel that 38mm or 50mm deep rims are preferable to the shallow rims- the faster speeds on descents allow me to keep up with and sometimes drop fast descenders. That is worth more than the cost up the climbs from the small added weight.

For uphill-only climbing races, lighter is better and aero is not very important.

[trex021]

I just bought a set of U shape 50mm x 23mm clinchers with Edhub Model:FSC50CM-23-ED U with the 2:1 lacing on the rear wheel. I've got about 100 miles on them. Here are my impressions so far.

I dealt directly with Kyle who was responsive and accurate in his build and shipping time estimates. The weight came in at 1439 grams as compared to the 1450 gram estimate. Check! I ordered the UD finish and it's perfect as far as I can tell. They are true and the spoke tension appears to be even.

I used one layer of Stan's yellow rim tape. I had one hell of a time getting new Pro4s on them. It was brutal. I had to use levers and I was concerned about how hard I could crank on the rims.

Based on what I've read here about the blue pads vs. the FSE ceramic black, I ordered an additional 3 sets of blue and I've got them setup with blue. They stop great: as well as my aluminum Zipp 101s. I do get a squeal with the rear wheel when braking harder. I'll try toeing the pads in to see if that helps. Overall, the braking is great.

The Edhub rear hub sounds great. Actually, it's quite a bit like my Zipp 188 rear hub but with more pawls.

My only negative criticism of the wheels is the difficulty of getting a new tire on them. It concerned me that I might be in a world of hurt on the side of the road with a flat. Well, I've already put that to the test. I must have rolled over something sharp because I've already flatted. I was in the middle of nowhere, by myself, so I was pleasantly surprised that I was able to pull the tire back on with my bare hands. I'm not sure why, but it was probably a combination of the tire being stretched and the warm temperatures but my number one concern has been put to rest.

I'm super happy with the purchase and I want to thank this forum for helping me make my leap of faith to buying Chinese wheels.

Here are some crappy iPhone photos:

[random101]

Hi all,

I have a question about Farsport rims

So I normally ride Enve 1.25 (crashed) and 6.7's tubs & I'm looking to replace the 1.25's with Farsport 38mmx23/25 was originally going to go get Enve 3.4's but then decided I might as well go a cheaper training clincher wheel (and race the 6.7's)

Anyhow, I got a few quotes from kyle and a 38mmx25 is about $900 delivered with DTswiss 240 hubs, for a similiar price you can get FF wheels & a two year crash replacement warranty.

Two questions;

1. Is it worth going DTswiss 240s? I have both campy and Sram running gear so I like to be able to be able to interchange the freehub easily as I currently do.
*Note; Wouldn't be much more to just get two rear wheels one campy and one sram. In fact it would probably be cheaper with their hubs.

2. I can't decide between the widths either 23 or 25mm... Honestly I only want the 25mm because it will mean less adjustment of the brakes when I put on the 6.7s as they are pretty wide.

But I would use the 38's in the hills when training so I would prefer them to be lighter (I am about 71kg) hence I'd rather the 23mm U shape?

Is there any other benefit to go with 25mm wheels?

[eric]

I'm not sold on wider rims always being better, so my answer would be no.

The Bitex hubs are pretty good. Edhubs are also made by Bitex. They are even lighter but have a narrower NDS flange spacing than Bitex making a less laterally stiff wheel. From what I remember DT240s have pretty narrow flanges. The Edhub also has smaller hub bearings than the Bitex that FarSport uses.

[addictR1]

anyone have this issue: i recently got a set of the farsport 38mm/ 23mm wide U shape rim for my CX bike. ever since the first day i mounted the tires, after it's pumped to 85psi (running panaracer, so max psi is 90), i start to hear crackling sounds.

i don't know if it's from the veloplugs being pushed into the rim further, or is the carbon rim being pressured and possible have small cracks?

i rode 50 miles on it today with no problem, thank goodness.. but after i'm home, she's sitting in the living room continuing to make that crackling sound...

what gives?

[trex021]

addictR1, yes. I got the crackling too but only on the first high pressure pumping. I assumed it was my Stan's rim tape. It was a bit disconcerting to say the least.

[addictR1]

trex021: yea when i first pumped it up, i heard that too.. but it's been over 2 wks and still crackling? seems wierd. my other set, v-shaped, also 38mm/ 20mm wide never had that crackling sound.. not even from day one.

[pushstart]

I used one layer of Stan's yellow rim tape. I had one hell of a time getting new Pro4s on them. It was brutal. I had to use levers and I was concerned about how hard I could crank on the rims.

One layer of yellow tape is insufficient for road pressures.

[random101]

trex021: yea when i first pumped it up, i heard that too.. but it's been over 2 wks and still crackling? seems wierd. my other set, v-shaped, also 38mm/ 20mm wide never had that crackling sound.. not even from day one.

Doesn't sound great :/


I wonder what they come up with?

[addictR1]

random101, i don't know, but today went riding with my other friend that also bought it at the same time i did.. his was making that sound too. but he said that's from spoke tensioning settling in. but so far so good. compared to my previous pair which didn't have the sound, this was a bit odd to hear for the very first time. i wonder if it's because it's U shaped vs. the V shaped ones i had before.

[random101]

random101, i don't know, but today went riding with my other friend that also bought it at the same time i did.. his was making that sound too. but he said that's from spoke tensioning settling in. but so far so good. compared to my previous pair which didn't have the sound, this was a bit odd to hear for the very first time. i wonder if it's because it's U shaped vs. the V shaped ones i had before.

If this is true... It'll be a pain as you'll have to check the tension on em once they are broken in again...

Compared to some other 38mm wheels out there they seem on the heavy side?

[addictR1]

to me these are light.. since i use to have velocity aeroheads alloy and Alexx Rim. so not going to complain about weight.

[WheelTester]

I took a dive and ordered the 2014 38mm clincher wheels(1250g +/-30g),23mm wide. I went with the Ed Hub Ceramics and CX Ray spokes. I worked with Kyle and I have to say he was very responsive and answered all of my questions in a timely manner. I will post up a review once I receive them.

Cheers~

Hey folks, I need some help... My wheels have been mostly good to be but the rear hub bearings are really rough after less than 1000 miles. I am pissed as I order the ceramic bearings so I wouldn't have this issue. Does anyone know where I can source these Ed Hub bearings in the US and/or get them relatively quickly? Thanks in advance!

[eric]

If I remember right the Edhub rear uses 4 6802s. I know they were all the same, it's the number I'm only 90% sure of.

The number is on the bearing seal. You can undo the axle caps and look. 6802s are a common standard size bearing.

My Edhub ceramic bearings started to go after 200 miles. The ceramic bearings they use are not that good... but that is the case with most ceramic bearings used for bicycle parts. Because hybrid ceramics cheap enough for cyclists to buy them are not really any better than good steel bearings, they spec loose fitting seals and thin/less grease to make them feel faster. So they injest gunk and go bad sooner. I replaced mine with Enduro steel bearings, ABEC 3. You can get ABEC 5s (the number means the amount of play between races and balls, higher is less). But 3s are perfectly fine for bike wheels and arguably will roll better, or at least no worse, than 5s. I am a weenie so I got some 5s too but the 3s are doing ok so I have not changed them.

There's a thread somewhere here about changing bearings in these hubs, using a decent bearing press which makes the job much easier and less likely to damage the bearing or have the preload wrong (which kills the bearings).