Hongfu FM-066/Chinese open mould frame thread
Moderator: robbosmans
Russianbear,
let me requote what you wrote again :
"..... No. Cables don't rub against anything."
I have to question how many frame have you done yourself ? I have owned / built quite a few internally routed frames to date both my own as well as friends. And about 20 externally routed framese/bikes over the past 2 decades.
A look 595,695, Spez Shiv, Wilier Cento,1 SR a Cippolini Rb1k, and my current bike a Gotobike WS02 which I have had for close to 20 months. But I have swapped the last one between DA7800 and Di2 in between and back a forth twice in the time since.
The fact is, from the high end to the low end to even lowest end, if there are liners there, they are there for a good reason. The only ones that don't need liners are those which run the complete cable housing inside the frame and then out again. 'Take a close look inside your frame after you have put in the cable and inspect it with a torch, even if it doesn't look/ feel like the bare cable is rubbing / contacting the frame in any way, there will with small points of contact here and there.
Perhaps you guys have had it easy in dealing with frames having straight tubes. I would say... do the same on frames with wonky curvy tubes then ?
Build more frames and you'll understand the issues better. A 1 piece sample doesn't mean you know the world.
let me requote what you wrote again :
"..... No. Cables don't rub against anything."
I have to question how many frame have you done yourself ? I have owned / built quite a few internally routed frames to date both my own as well as friends. And about 20 externally routed framese/bikes over the past 2 decades.
A look 595,695, Spez Shiv, Wilier Cento,1 SR a Cippolini Rb1k, and my current bike a Gotobike WS02 which I have had for close to 20 months. But I have swapped the last one between DA7800 and Di2 in between and back a forth twice in the time since.
The fact is, from the high end to the low end to even lowest end, if there are liners there, they are there for a good reason. The only ones that don't need liners are those which run the complete cable housing inside the frame and then out again. 'Take a close look inside your frame after you have put in the cable and inspect it with a torch, even if it doesn't look/ feel like the bare cable is rubbing / contacting the frame in any way, there will with small points of contact here and there.
Perhaps you guys have had it easy in dealing with frames having straight tubes. I would say... do the same on frames with wonky curvy tubes then ?
Build more frames and you'll understand the issues better. A 1 piece sample doesn't mean you know the world.
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I was implying in a cheeky way that you haven't built many (apparently you have), but this thread is for the FM069/66 with straight tubes. So you're not really contributing in a helpful way. On these frames those aren't liners that you're intended to leave it, they're just for pulling the cable through.
russianbear wrote:I was implying in a cheeky way that you haven't built many (apparently you have), but this thread is for the FM069/66 with straight tubes. So you're not really contributing in a helpful way. On these frames those aren't liners that you're intended to leave it, they're just for pulling the cable through.
as they are on specialized, neilpryde, scott, velocity and so on. they are just there on those frames to guide the cable through.
My FM-066 came without liners. It wasn't difficult to thread the cables as the various ports are large enough so you can grab the end of the cable with a tool.
If liners are needed to thread cables and you remove them after threading the cables, how do you replace the cables?
If liners are needed to thread cables and you remove them after threading the cables, how do you replace the cables?
So did mine. No issue.
If you have liners, and you remove them, you can send them back over the cable before removal to ease the process. No biggie on an 066 but there are other bikes that aren't so easy.
If you have liners, and you remove them, you can send them back over the cable before removal to ease the process. No biggie on an 066 but there are other bikes that aren't so easy.
Cysco Ti custom Campy SR mechanical (6.9);Berk custom (5.6); Serotta Ottrott(6. ; Anvil Custom steel Etap;1996 Colnago Technos Record
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Email Hongfu and ask for geometry charts for the particular size you're after and compare to the cannondale. I think the FM066 has the exact geo to the supersix(but double check me), but I know they changed the geometry on the 069 slightly. Here is the comaprison:
http://www.paulscycles.co.uk/smsimg/evo-geo.jpg
http://www.hongfu-bikes.com/pic/other/2 ... 46-285.jpg
I'm 92kg and have no issue stiffness complaints of my 069.
http://www.paulscycles.co.uk/smsimg/evo-geo.jpg
http://www.hongfu-bikes.com/pic/other/2 ... 46-285.jpg
I'm 92kg and have no issue stiffness complaints of my 069.
That's whats actually confused me. Is it about geometry only or what's goes into the frame eg: carbon lay up, types of carbon, etc. I did actually purchased kind of open mold frame from local guys for about the same price if I were to order directly from china (ok, maybe a bit more), but I like my Supersix better as it feels stiffer and more responsive during sprint. Though the bike was much more comfortable than the supersix, but comfort was not I was looking for. I Was thinking for Caad10, but it was hard to find xs CAAD10 frameset, and a lot of them have been sold out at lbs.
Just a little story, maybe it helps someone: Yesterday I had to cut a ride short because my bike started creaking really loud with every pedal stroke. It was obviously coming from the bottom bracket area, slighty right-of-center.
I was hoping that it was the chainrings, cranks or BB, but I had fears that it was the BB shell inside the frame since it stopped when standing up.
Back at home, I took out and disassembled the crank and chainrings, greased and loctited everything. Then I took out the BB, which seemed to turn smoothly (2000km so far), greased it, put it in with loctite and torqued correctly.
Result: Same loud creaking, even just riding 2m inside the workshop.
Then... I remembered a forum post I read somewhere and tightened the rear wheel skewer a bit more.
Silence!
...
I was hoping that it was the chainrings, cranks or BB, but I had fears that it was the BB shell inside the frame since it stopped when standing up.
Back at home, I took out and disassembled the crank and chainrings, greased and loctited everything. Then I took out the BB, which seemed to turn smoothly (2000km so far), greased it, put it in with loctite and torqued correctly.
Result: Same loud creaking, even just riding 2m inside the workshop.
Then... I remembered a forum post I read somewhere and tightened the rear wheel skewer a bit more.
Silence!
...
robbern wrote:The FM069 has a cover underneath and then there is a little piece of plastic that routes the wires to FD and chainstay. Finished the build today and almost everything went smoothly. The liners for the FD and RD should we on opposite sides, so i had to switch that myself, but easy job.
All done:
This looks great! Really classy looking. Can I ask what size/inseam you are? I'm stuck between a 58 and a 56. I'm 6 ft 2" with a 34" inseam.
Thanks for the compliment! I'm very happy with the build and it rides great. So much more comfortable on rougher roads than my old bike and feels nice and agile. It's pretty hard going from a compact to standard, but that's my legs' fault and not the bike
I'm 6'4" with 34" inseam, so I have a long torso for my height. I think you would fit better on a 56 than a 58. You could probably ride a 58 too, but I think you would feel very streched out with a standard 100-110mm stem.
I'm 6'4" with 34" inseam, so I have a long torso for my height. I think you would fit better on a 56 than a 58. You could probably ride a 58 too, but I think you would feel very streched out with a standard 100-110mm stem.
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ToffieBoi wrote:robbern wrote:I have not gotten to the cablerouting yet, but i pulled through one of the brakecable and one shiftcable since you asked and it went through without issues. I will def keep the white liners for re-use when its time to change the cables. I think it would be hard to do the routing without them.
With a good quality magnet, it is really easy to route the cable. You will not need the liners
On my BMC that didn't work (small ports) but I found that attaching a bit of string to the end of the cable, and then putting a vaccuum hose to the 'out' port worked perfectly - it sucked up the string and then I was able to pull the cable through : )
So, vaccuums: not just for injuring your junk anymore ; )
Love the vacuum idea!
However, I had no problems fishing out the cables with a bent spoke on my 066 which came without liners.
However, I had no problems fishing out the cables with a bent spoke on my 066 which came without liners.
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Marin wrote:Love the vacuum idea!
However, I had no problems fishing out the cables with a bent spoke on my 066 which came without liners.
How about this road frame? http://www.xmiplay.com/ProductDetails1684