Felt 2014 AR1
Moderator: robbosmans
2 questions please....
1- I was moving my stem down last night, undid the top cap, swapped stem and spacers around, screwed it all back together again (multiple times) and can't seem to get a bit of wiggle out of the headset, any pointers? Have tried tightening the expander with a 5mm a bit (reverse thread) but no luck.
2- Anyone tried a lower headset topper? The cone thing is huge.
1- I was moving my stem down last night, undid the top cap, swapped stem and spacers around, screwed it all back together again (multiple times) and can't seem to get a bit of wiggle out of the headset, any pointers? Have tried tightening the expander with a 5mm a bit (reverse thread) but no luck.
2- Anyone tried a lower headset topper? The cone thing is huge.
Last edited by ultyguy on Thu Jun 05, 2014 2:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
1 - uh...the cap is the adjuster and the stem holds it all in place:
http://sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html (read threadless)
2 - many people have (though I've not yet)
http://sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html (read threadless)
2 - many people have (though I've not yet)
ultyguy wrote:1- I was moving my stem down last night, undid the top cap, swapped stem and spacers around, screwed it all back together again (multiple times) and can't seem to get a bit of wiggle out of the headset, any pointers?
Sometimes the tapered compression ring that sits on/in the top bearing gets a bit stuck so when you tighten the top cap you can't remove all play,
Take the bearing cover and seal off, wiggle the tapered compression ring up a bit and apply a little bit of grease around the steerer and top bearing before reassembly.
-
- Resident master of GIF
- Posts: 3405
- Joined: Mon Jul 18, 2011 2:44 am
- Contact:
ultyguy wrote:2- Anyone tried a lower headset topper? The cone thing is huge.
the middle sized has been used on a few bikes in the thread. Can't say i've seen a 8mm or less on an AR1/FRD. Yea huge cones look real bad.
-
- Posts: 225
- Joined: Sat Sep 22, 2012 2:22 pm
I'm currently using the low stack headset cap, no issue as you would expect. I've been slowly lowering the front end, I now have the low stack cover and a 5mm spacer.
To the guy having issues with the headset re build, make sure the compression bung inside the steerer isn't moving, I've found mine slips quite easily.
To the guy having issues with the headset re build, make sure the compression bung inside the steerer isn't moving, I've found mine slips quite easily.
Tenlegs wrote:ultyguy wrote:1- I was moving my stem down last night, undid the top cap, swapped stem and spacers around, screwed it all back together again (multiple times) and can't seem to get a bit of wiggle out of the headset, any pointers?
Sometimes the tapered compression ring that sits on/in the top bearing gets a bit stuck so when you tighten the top cap you can't remove all play,
Take the bearing cover and seal off, wiggle the tapered compression ring up a bit and apply a little bit of grease around the steerer and top bearing before reassembly.
Cool thanks, will give it a shot. So annoying to have it and not ride it yet!
-
- Posts: 465
- Joined: Thu Sep 15, 2005 6:49 am
I've been greatly enjoying my Exergy team bike, but is it really true the AR1 has a longer head tube in the 54cm size? The F series head tube comes in definitely lower than my old Tarmac's 140, and I've been much more efficient (and cornering/descending better) on the Felt.
-
- Posts: 465
- Joined: Thu Sep 15, 2005 6:49 am
Thanks for the reply. On the one hand: dang. On the other: that tempers my lust and keeps me happier on my current frame.
-
- Posts: 225
- Joined: Sat Sep 22, 2012 2:22 pm
There are ways round a higher head tube. Could you not run a -17 stem? Bars with a bigger drop at the hoods?
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com