Yes don't think about the the losses, think about having a straight chain with small steps around the speed you ride.
To me 52-36 & 11-25 is perfect for endurance (small ring) ans time trials (big ring)
While having enough top speed for sprints, and enough small gear for most climbs (not enough for walls with cobbles in Belgium tho :p)
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move to compact just for weight savings????
Moderator: robbosmans
This might get more interesting once people record gear data with di2. If I were you I'd try and record a few rides and look at time spent at certain speeds (not average speeds) in WKO+ or GC. Then you can figure out what gear you would have been and how often you'd have to shift between chainrings.
That's pretty personal as it depends on power, power to weight, prefered cadences and what not.
When I last looked at it, it put me right between rings in a compact setup for some false flats I rode quite a bit where I live. I also used different wheels with different cassettes, and that somehow worked out better with standard gearing.
Long story short, use the gearing that suits your riding better, not the one that makes your bike lighter.
That's pretty personal as it depends on power, power to weight, prefered cadences and what not.
When I last looked at it, it put me right between rings in a compact setup for some false flats I rode quite a bit where I live. I also used different wheels with different cassettes, and that somehow worked out better with standard gearing.
Long story short, use the gearing that suits your riding better, not the one that makes your bike lighter.
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bm0p700f
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Personally I can't make compacts work for me the inner ring becomes pointless on everything but steep hill. To make more use of the inner I have found a new record 10 speed square taper chainset with 53/41 rings at a distributor. The last one too, mated to a 12-27T 11 speed cassette and I have the perfect gearing for me in suffolk. It's not light but that is almost that does not matter given the wheels I have just built for it.
36:25T is plenty for cobbled Belgian walls, I did them on 39:25T man that was hard and slow.
36:25T is plenty for cobbled Belgian walls, I did them on 39:25T man that was hard and slow.
I did them with 39-25ish too! 
I was using an old wheel with 9s on my 10s bike, worked surprisingly well without tuning.
But on the steepest section (28% I think) I hit 9 km/h minimum so I'm not sure if I would have made it without clips. But its fun!
Now I use 53-39 11-28 (10s) but the steps are way too big.
I was using an old wheel with 9s on my 10s bike, worked surprisingly well without tuning.
But on the steepest section (28% I think) I hit 9 km/h minimum so I'm not sure if I would have made it without clips. But its fun!
Now I use 53-39 11-28 (10s) but the steps are way too big.
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Nefarious86
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- Joined: Sun May 25, 2014 4:57 am
Ill admit I run up to 34-32 gearing when grinding out hill repeats using a 6800 casette on a 9000 groupset, being 90kg every rpm of cadence I can have on my side is nice when going out to pull 1000m+ vert in a quick 40km ride. I like my knees 
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