anyone use jagwire elite link?

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
nickf
Posts: 549
Joined: Sat Mar 06, 2010 10:34 pm

by nickf

Need to recable the bike soon and came across the jagwire elite link. They seem nice. Anyone use them yet?

Krackor
Posts: 260
Joined: Tue May 31, 2011 9:48 pm

by Krackor

I got a full set for my AR1.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=118212&start=630#p1058412

I was initially worried about having enough length to complete the build. The rear, chainstay-mounted brake requires a fully-housed run of brake cable inside the frame, which is much more length than the typical two segments of housing from handlebar to frame stop, and from frame stop to rear brake. Turns out the kits come with a fair bit of extra segments, so I had enough for the whole thing. I'm not sure that would be true if I were doing just the brake lines though, since I probably borrowed from the shifter set to make it happen.

Aside from build-specific length issues, it's pretty easy stuff to work with. I didn't try any crazy tight bends, but I can see how it could handle them better than traditional housing. Shift and brake feel leaves nothing to be desired. I don't really notice cable performance when I'm using the bike, which is a good thing; I'd only notice if something were going wrong.

If I'm reading my records correctly, the weight of everything in the packages (brake+shifter) was 225g. A bit under the 118g + 115g weight I've seen quoted elsewhere. I'd estimate I left ~25-50g unused for my build. With traditional rear brake run, that would be an extra ~20g or so saved.

The kit came with two inline barrel adjusters (this style). I used these for the shifter cables, but I'm not satisfied with how well they work. They are pretty stiff and it's difficult/impossible to make adjustments on them while riding. Sram cable pull ratios being what they are, I don't really have to worry about that, but it's still irritating. I cannibalized another inline barrel adjuster (this style) for the rear brake cable, since the direct mount brake has no barrel adjuster. I had to do a little hack by crimping a housing ferrule and wedging it in to the end of the barrel adjuster to keep it from rotating freely around the housing, but I am much happier with how that barrel adjuster works. Not nearly as much friction, so it's easy to twist it with two fingers while riding.

Pay attention to segment diameter when comparing to traditional housing and other brands of links-style housing. The Jagwire is a hair over 5mm at its widest, and that goes for both brake and shifter housing (of course). So be sure that you won't have to put the 5mm housing into a space designed for 4mm shifter housing or something.

Overall, I like the system very much and will probably buy new sets for my other bikes as they come due for a recabling. If you want, it would be easy to take the whole system apart, flush the plastic liner with soap and water, then reinstall everything with some pre-lubed cable and get a like-new system without buying any additional housing ever again.

by Weenie


nickf
Posts: 549
Joined: Sat Mar 06, 2010 10:34 pm

by nickf

Thanks for the info. What kind of cable do they provide to go under the bar tape? Also can you leave the barrel adjusters out of the build?

Krackor
Posts: 260
Joined: Tue May 31, 2011 9:48 pm

by Krackor

They provide a short length of traditional housing for under the bar tape, 2x250mm for the shifters, 2x200mm for the brakes. Barrel adjusters are completely optional. They can easily fit between the traditional housing and the rest of the links (different included ferrules go on the front end of the links section depending on if you include the adjuster or not). One could theoretically put an adjuster somewhere in the middle of a links section, but it would require some hacking and scrounging up spare parts that weren't included in the set. Setting up barrel adjusters at the frame downtube stops on a bike with more traditional routing would be pretty easy.

But yes, if you want to connect the links section directly to the traditional section coming out of the bar tape, that's easily done. If I had a rear brake with an integrated barrel adjuster, and I weren't worried about rear derailleur adjustment after a wheel change in a race, I would have done the install without any adjusters.

plpete
Posts: 528
Joined: Thu Dec 22, 2011 12:39 pm
Location: DC

by plpete

I have the cable set as well and have been very happy with it. Both form and function. I personally think it's one of the best looking kits out there. What Krackor said is pretty much spot on. My BMC has external cabling. When I finished that bike I still had enough liner and links leftover to do the shifting on my Caad8. I think I still have a good amount of the liner left for replacement. For me, shifting has improved and feels best it ever did. Traditional housing I used in the past was fine but the action on this system just feels lighter to me. Highly recommend the Jagwire links :thumbup:

MNX1024
Posts: 286
Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2011 1:21 am

by MNX1024

Looking to recable two bikes, anyone know how the weights compare to Powercordz Swift and Alligator ilink, specifically brakes?

NiFTY
Posts: 1066
Joined: Sat May 26, 2012 11:26 pm

by NiFTY

Why do they use a bit of conventional cabling instead of the segments under the bar tape?
Evo 5.02kg SL3 6.77 Slice RS 8.89 viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110579" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

lannes
Posts: 418
Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 9:51 pm

by lannes

MNX1024 wrote:Looking to recable two bikes, anyone know how the weights compare to Powercordz Swift and Alligator ilink, specifically brakes?


fairwheel has the weights on this link

http://fairwheelbikes.com/power-cordz-s ... -5927.html

MNX1024
Posts: 286
Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2011 1:21 am

by MNX1024

Fairwheelbikes have the weight for all the other link housings beside the Jaguar. Originally going to get the swift, but god knows when they'll have it back in stock, so it's either the Jaguar or ilinks with power cords for me. But, not really a fan of the ilink look, but will go with it if it's lighter.

lannes
Posts: 418
Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 9:51 pm

by lannes

You can't beat the swifts with powercordz, just a bit finicky to set up, but perform great and superlight.

MNX1024
Posts: 286
Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2011 1:21 am

by MNX1024

I know, I have a set for one of my bike already. Just that they're out of stock everywhere, and the new bike I've bought nearly a month ago have been sitting there. Still haven't rode it yet because of missing parts, the housing is one of them...... Not sure I want to wait till god knows when they'll be in stock. If the Jaguar have a similar weight, don't mind getting that and use powercordz cable.

jeanjacques
Posts: 65
Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2016 11:01 am
Location: France

by jeanjacques

Hello,
Somebody already tried to put directly links under the bar tape ? Is there a problem if I do it ?
I would like to switch to Elite Link for my mechanical disc brake and even the compressionless housing from Jagwire feel little bit spongy.
Thanks :)

Chris3g
Posts: 38
Joined: Sun Aug 20, 2017 2:51 pm

by Chris3g

jeanjacques wrote:Hello,
Somebody already tried to put directly links under the bar tape ? Is there a problem if I do it ?
I would like to switch to Elite Link for my mechanical disc brake and even the compressionless housing from Jagwire feel little bit spongy.
Thanks :)


i made a thread about it the other day - viewtopic.php?f=3&t=148264

no problems for me with running the links under the tape.

jeanjacques
Posts: 65
Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2016 11:01 am
Location: France

by jeanjacques

Perfect, thank you very much ! The other good news it's I can buy the MTB version, little bit cheaper and more length (just less liner but it's very cheap on ebay).

nickf
Posts: 549
Joined: Sat Mar 06, 2010 10:34 pm

by nickf

Great cable set. Been on them over a year. Replaced the inner liner and inner cables once for a refresh. Like new again, not that it was bad to begin with.

by Weenie


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